avk

Don't know for sure if 2d gen. roof rails would fit 1st gen. roof. There were roof rails for gen. 1 in Japan and Europe, but AFAIK they are not available as spare parts. From dealers in UK, you can order a roof rack with "feet" that attach to the same factory mounts in the roof channels that are used with USDM "port installed" rack. The cross-bars are removable. With shipping it would run something over $200. A console cupholder is supposedly available from Husco as a special order, it fits on the optional storage-box console.

The ring and the bulb holder are separate parts that can be removed after the column covers are off. Don't if know lighted and non-lighted lock have the same dimensions, but on Impreza even 1st gen. locks have a trim bezel which looks like it has a spot where the bulb would attach.

It might be simply a common type of radiator failure, although it usually happens with older cars. The seal in the crimp joint leaks upon start-up, when the thermostat is closed so the rad is still cold but pressure is already building up. When the rad. warms up, the seal expands and closes the leak.

Did you consider a factory cruise control kit? It should be still available for a '99. Costs more than Audiovox but all connections are simply by plugging in, and the parts are so much more solid.

They did make them! http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Elements/084/

Smoke detectors use Americium, the half-life decay time for Polonium is 138.4 days.

Except for '96, maybe that's what Myles has?

I believe the seal inserts into its bore from the axle side and the CV housing itself is what holds it in place. Not sure what the green coating is made of, but inner joint housings have it too. My guess would be paint.

It's one of the two relays under the cover next to the ABS hydro unit. Even from a dealer it shouldn't be more than $50, and the labor is just to pull the old one out and plug the new one in.

Ordinarily, only a dealer can file a claim under warranty, but maybe there is some sort of "emergency" provision that allows you to use a 3d party and then submit their bill. Extended warranties from Subaru include this, but not sure about the regular powertrain warranty. And it's about time SOA came up with some sort of goodwill warranty for the headgasket problem, even Ford did that with their 3.8.

It's for cruise. The plug for actuator under the hood is there, too. There was no fog wiring on '93-'96 (but factory add-on kit came with what's needed). The defrost button is a big one to the left of tach.

Because the manual says so! Seriously, the purpose is to have minimal stress in the bushing when the car is at the normal height. The bushing is pressed into the arm and at the axis, attached to a stationary sleeve which is tightened by the bolt to the subframe mount. If the bolt is tightened with the wheel hanging down, the bushing will twist quite a bit when the suspension is loaded, and would stay that way. On upward travel of the arm, it would twist even more. My way to tighten the bolt was to turn as much possible with wheels on the ground, then when the sleeve is already tight, drive up on the ramps and turn some more.

Checked Joe Spitz's archives: according to him, ABS on FWD L was optional in combination with TCS while the standard brakes were rear drums w/o ABS.

The connector is for cruise control.

On my '95 Imp., the ABS light comes on very briefly when you turn the key, not like the other lights. ABS was standard on '95 Legacy L, at least with AWD.

FWIW there's a TSB about a sticking ABS motor relay, it says to replace the relay with an updated part if it's bad.

Subaru coolant is green but labelled "long-life". I am using it, it's a cheap insurance.

You likely need a to replace a resistor pack (or repair the old one if it's just cracked solder). That part is inserted into AC evaporator case, for cooling, and held by a flange with two screws. For access, remove the glove box and the reinforcement stamping behind, if present.

I believe you can get an OE gasket mail-order, it's not an obsolete part.

I remember reading that the change from gasket to sealant was mid-year in 1995 and that if a gasket was used originally, it should be replaced with another gasket. I believe that was in another TSB, but not sure now. Also, I agree with the idea that the filter screen can catch only large debris and doesn't need to be replaced in normal operation.

The tie rod doesn't have to be touched, the sway bar bolt is 12mm and not too tight.

With the control arm method, you only need to remove one, front mount bolt (17 mm head and nut), plus the sway bar link bolt. There is enough play in the other bushing for the inner joint to clear the stub shaft. The caveats are that re-tightening must be performed with wheels on the ground, or at least on low ramps, and the nut is officially not reusable (mine is OK with blue Loctite). But same things already apply for the sway bar bushing bolt.

alias: I meant the EJ engines discussed here, it had to do with differences between RH and LH heads. Not sure about 2.5l. He said he just wants to block the hole, maybe parts can be swapped from the bad engine?

EGR was only with AT, at least on 2.2l.

Is the distributor on the rear facing side of the right cylinder head, driven by the camshaft? If so, it can be replaced with a factory cover plate and O-ring.