mentis

Sounds good Carl. Thanks!

I'll keep that in mind too. But right now, I'm still trying to find info on the mechanics in Chapel Hill. Just because, if something's going wrong, I don't want to have to drive more than a few miles, in case things go completely wrong . Thanks though!

Well, I suppose Salisbury isn't all too far from Chapel Hill, but it's not all that close either. However, I will certainly keep that name and number in my book for future reference. If there are other shops that are decent and closer, even if they do not specialize in subies, I'd certainly welcome the information. Thanks!

Hey, you guys know of any good Subaru mechanics in this area? There are a few here in Chapel Hill that work on imports, so I'm going to check them out. I have to admit though, I don't see nearly as many Subarus here as I did in Montana.

So why is there a smell when it's too tight? I seem to be having this issue, after it started squeeling a little, I tightened it and then started noticing a smell later. However, I did not even realize that I could have tightened the belt too much. So why does is do that?

Thanks! That's one, he he. Yeah, I'll be paying attention to when those meets come around again too.

Hurray! We've moved and my comp is all set up. Formerly a Montana subie driver (started here), we are now living in Chapel Hill, NC. Is anyone else on the forum from that area? Would be good to meet someone, as we have only been here 2.5 weeks and don't know anyone yet! In any case, we love the town and are happy about the move. Much nicer that Billings, MT, that's for sure .

Okay...looks like I am officially no longer a Montana subie owner. Just finished our move to Chapel Hill, NC. I will continue this discussion on the following thread for NC subies: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17635&page=3

After recommendations from the forum, I got an OEM thermostat from the dealer for a good $12.50. I have noticed my temps more stable with that in, and I know that whenever I turn any extra electrical items on it goes up. This has at least helped me not to worry, knowing that the temps are where they should be. I still haven't added the extra grounds, but will do that soon, before the big road trip to NC.

Hello again! I will be moving to NC in about two weeks. It's going to be a long and arduous drive which I am not exactly looking forward to, but it's gotta be done. We'll be heading out around October 3rd I think, and we are taking two cars. My wagon and my wifes little old dodge colt. Due to the age of her vehicle, and the fact that I'll be heavily burdened with lots of stuff, we'll be going probably no more than 65 the whole way there. I can only hope I don't encounter and surprise mechanical failures. I expect it should take about 6 days, maybe a little less.

Well, it looks like I'll only be a Montana Subie for a couple more weeks, then it's out to the east coast. I regret that I could not connect with any other subie owners in Billings, but what can you do. Good luck to you guys out here!

That's close. But it's not the thread I saw. The subie that the other setup was in was red. But this may be enough to explain what I need welded at the shop. If anyone else remembers the other thread, please let me know.

Hey guys, :cool: I'm getting close to finding all the parts I need to get my IC put in. A few weeks ago I saw someone on the board with a particular setup that was a little unusual, and I'm trying to find that thread and the picture, but after hours of searching still no go. :-\ The setup I saw incorporated the factory "IC" in the old subies, which is just that aluminum (?) pipe thing that says "turbo" on it. This person had cut off the smaller end of it and welded a piece to it that then atteched to the IC. I am looking at doing something similiar because I think it would be the most cost effective way to install the particular IC that I have. Any ideas where I can find that thread and pic?

Indeed, I have come to the same conclusion. Since it is the mixture of both coolants that causes the corrosion, a flushed system would in most cases do fine with either coolant. After my mechanics suggestion I did do a flush by dilution and then put the green coolant back in. I will obviously stick with green now because I don't want to flush again for a looong time. It was a time consuming pain in the butt since I didn't want to fork over the chunk of cash they want for a flush at radiator shops. Anyway, I'm glad we've got this thing mostly figured out. Thanks everyone!

Is it possible that Prestone does not use dexcool, and that their formula is different then? Edit: I see. Well, I guess it's the mixture that causes the problems then.

Ah, yes. I use green coolant, but it is also Prestone. And what is this G-012 I am hearing about? Never heard of it, but it sounds interesting. Can you buy it easily?

Your Permatex may be different that the other brands. I personally have never heard of Permatex, so I am guessing it's better quality than the stuff you can pick up at any old store. Most of the dexcool antifreeze available from the common brands seems to be doing damage many many cars, not just soobs, according to the track record at my mechanic. In other words, I believe that the stuff you got works well for you, but I'm not sure where to get my hands on Permatex. Perhaps you can tell me where you got yours?

Maybe everyone already knows this and I'm more of a n00b that I realize, but just in case, here's a heads up: One of my two mechanics informed me yesterday that I was starting to leak coolant while he was checking out some other stuff for me. I had been using the orange Halvoline brand dexcool. He also told me that the reason for my leak is because dexcool should not be used on anything but 2002 and newer GM vehicles. The dexcool corrodes your gaskets and waterpump (including the head gasket) and begins to leak through them. Apparently they have been doing a LOT of coolant replacement on older GM vehicles as well because many people have been using the dexcool. In other words, STAY AWAY FROM DEXCOOL!!! Fortunately, when the system is flushed and the green stuff's back in, many of the gaskets stop leaking according to my mechanic. I hope this is of use to you guys.

Yeah! I saw it over by Pioneer park the other day, and it looked interesting from a distance. But then I got close, and whoa! It looked like it was actually covered in beads and not paint!!! I am not sure if my eyes deceived me or something, but it looked pretty neat up close (or maybe just cause I'm an artist!).

I just installed an oil cooler a couple of days ago, and the digital temp gauge is back to it's old antics. Some time ago, the gauge would jump around by going up and then a few seconds later it would fall back down again. So what gives? I am a little concerned about this issue occurring now. Could it be that the oil cooler, which uses 3/8 oil line, is affecting oil pressure and that in turn is causing the engine to heat up sporadically? My next step was going to be a temp sensor replacement and a thermostat replacement. I guess I should think about getting a real temp gauge too so that I can see what's really going on.

That's also the route I am taking. I'll worry about the AC when all else is working well, as it's not much of a priority.

Cool. Thanks guys. That IC I got from 88 has what looks like two small vacuum fittings, but they seem to be plugged? Can you confirm this, 88? I am wondering if you used those or if you patched it in somewhere else. Thanks again!

Um, okay, so even if it does stand for "mass air flow," I'm afraid I still do not know what that is. I am new to all this, so I guess I just need a more detailed explanation .

I do apologize for my ignorance, but could you please tell me what the "maf" stands for?

Looks like I'll have to start looking at fixing my AC system as well . Oh well, all in due time, he he.