mentis

Yeah, that makes sense... cool, thank you!

Yeah, really . He was very knowledgeable and cross-referenced other models/years for me even!

Finally got them in the mail (from Mike Scarff Subaru). Here's the part numbers in case anyone else needs them... Two 35035KA030, at $10.23 ea. And four 35035AA030 at $3.61 ea. Shipping was $9.95. Looking forward to having a properly working shifter again!

Thanks for your insights guys. I am using Q towers. While I still haven't had any reply from Yakima support, and probably won't get one, I suppose I can change how they're installed. They do warn against "improper installation," but since this is a used rack there's not going to be any warranty issues . Mdjdc, I plan on using the Load Warrior basket with the rack. Would it be better to have the setup towards the front or the back of the roof on a wagon?

Recently purchased a base rack for my '93 Legacy L wagon, and the attached image is the supposed measurements for my car. I have contacted Yakima support also, but haven't heard anything back. My problem is that the rear bar assembly seems to have an M3 measurement that is too wide and causes the base of the towers to dig into the rain gutters by about an eighth of an inch on each side. I followed the instructions precisely and tower tension is adjusted properly. Seems to me that maybe these measurements might fit a sedan better than a Wagon, but not sure. Anyone else experience this issue? Also, the spacing between the bars is supposed to be 30" and that seems very little. My old '87 wagon had a factory rack that was mounted towards the back of the wagon's roof. Would make more sense to me if this was also mounted or spaced out more evenly on the large amount of space I have on the roof instead of cramming both bars so close to the front. Since I didn't find more info on this here after searching, I hope maybe someone else can shed a little light on the issue. Thanks!

It's pretty mysterious to me too ...And as long as I don't stall it I should be fine . But then it doesn't happen every time either, because I've stalled the car plenty of times without it doing that. The car's due for some work in the next few weeks anyway, so I'll see if they can track down this issue at all.

Here's a strange issue that has only happened twice since I got the care about six months ago... Shortly are buying the wagon I had a new clutch put in because the old one was shot. First time driving on a brand new clutch took some getting used to, and I stalled it more than once. One of those times, starting from a full stop at a light and stalling it, I restarted and kept going... the next time I put in the clutch when slowing down the car stalled when the rpms dropped below 1k. It continued to stall every time I would put in the clutch when getting ready to slow down or stop and I had to restart it each time. Once I got it home I decided to wait it out and see if it would do this the next day, which it didn't. This never happened again until about a month ago. Started out the exact same way, with me unintentionally stalling at a light, and after sitting overnight did not repeat since. So the question is, why would the car stall every time the rpms drop after first stalling it accidentally? Is this something I should be worried about? Maybe a problem with the clutch install job? Thanks in advance, and I hope this makes sense .

So here's an update. I contacted both Kartboy and TIC, neither of which had any info about what kind of bushings would fit my '93, and so were not able to help. Then I called Jason, and he found all of the stock bushings I would need and said that they would be good for about another 100k miles with how much I drive. Therefore I decided to just go with the stock bushings and ordered them from those guys. Altogether with about $10 shipping it came to about $45 or so. When the bushings come in I will post part numbers here for anyone else who might want to know. Incidentally, Jason said that the bushings used in my Legacy will fit Legacies up to '96. After that some of them change, while some are the same, so it gets trickier.

Thanks again for the info. I'm checking out Kartboy, and they only list 2000 or newer Legacies. Will those bushings also work in my 93? The TurnInConcepts site only goes back to 2005 models.

Btw, I was looking at this schematic... http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_20/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/ ...and I couldn't even see a u-joint bushing listed there.

Last time I called those guys, they said they didn't know anybody named "Jason." Which is weird, because everybody here talks about him, but I guess I'll try again. Also, where did you buy the aftermarket bushings? Is there a site I can get them from? Your thread never specified a source for those bushings. Thanks for the input though!

Been driving with a sloppy shifter for a while now, and it's leaning heavily to the right. It works okay, but I know I need new bushings. I've done some searching and found lots of great info about the bushings, except for where to get them! - So my first question is, where do I get them? Is the dealership the only option? Because I haven't had any luck finding them online at all. - Second, and this is totally unrelated, I'm wondering about washing under the hood. I'd like to spray it down and rinse it off and such. Any recommendations on this? Should I use a power washer at a self-service car wash, or go through an automatic car wash to get the underside really good too? And what parts besides the battery should I be concerned about getting wet? Your insights are always appreciated... so thanks in advance!

Just wanted to update this thread. I ordered the hub, bearing, and seals and got the put in. Turned out it wasn't the correct side, so the noise was still there. Ended up ordering another set, and got it put in on the other correct side. This finally fixed the problem, and finally no more noise! Fortunately my mechanic cut me a deal on doing the second job, so it's all good. Turns out both sides has some wear, so it's good. Last week I drove the car to DC, and no problems with the wheels .

Just thought I'd ask this question again, but anybody know if there's a much of a difference between a Back/Arnley gasket and a Fel-Pro one? I figured they're comparable, but the price is a bit different so... yeah.

Sorry, I'm not a mechanic and my experience is limited. Just wanted to make sure I don't do this wrong.

Good to know!

Hey guys, I'm needing to do VC gaskets on my 93 Legacy L (2.2)... do you need to use the black silicone gasket sealer on these? Because every bit of info I have found never mentions it, so I'm assuming no? P.S.: Any difference between a Beck/Arnley gasket and a Fel-Pro one?

Thank you very much guys! Awesome responses as always . Will double check for ABS in the morning and then order the hub and bearings. I guess I better get the seals too. My mechanic recommended to stick with Timken, which is great for me because that's also less expensive . EDIT: Yup, definitely no ABS under the hood . Time to go order those parts!

Okay... I feel kind of dumb. But, how do I check if I have ABS? I checked the manual and it only says "if equipped," but I did look up where the ABS light is supposed to be when you start the car. It does not light up, and as far as I can tell I don't have ABS. Doesn't seem a definite indicator though...

Wilmington, NC... sorry .

Checking up on some of these, good pictures on Amazon (link), is looks like there is an inner and outer bearing. However, I can't seem to confirm that there are in fact both based on this diagram. So are there two? And should I get both? Hmm... looks like a call to my mechanic is in order, too.

Oh right, sorry I forgot to mention it's FWD, which does narrow it down a bit. I guess I'll have to do a little more digging .

Hi guys... I'm in need of a hub and bearing replacement on my front p-side wheel. Was planning on ordering the parts from Rockauto.com, but not exactly sure which ones to get. The hub is simple enough, as all I need to figure out is if I have ABS. Actually I don't remember if I do, so I'll have to check... The bearing on the other hand lists four different bearings. The brands are Timken, SKF, National (Taper Bearing Assembly), and Beck/Arnley. I don't know if it they are all "taper" or only the one specifically listed as such. They are all different prices, so a little more info would be very helpful. Thanks in advance!

Too bad they don't sell individual harness wires! LOL ...

Congrats! I'm still waiting to install mine... got everything sitting there and prepped to go. Only thing I'm missing is one of those dang illumination wires, and the guy I got the other parts from isn't responding to my emails. I guess it's not worth doing business for one tiny little cheap wire . Trying to think of where else I could get the wire for the harness... tried some local shops but nobody carries individual parts like that .