mentis

How did you paint them? Did you have access to a shop, use a gun, or cans? I'm curious. Btw folks, still looking for somebody in Wilmington. Come on, I know there's gotta be somebody out there!

Oh, well I guess I missed that part . Sorry about that.

That's what I thought you were talking about . As I recall, having looked at prices for that a while back, those don't come too cheap. But I suppose they could be worse. Of course I'll have to diagnose the issue first. Thank you very much for your detailed explanation. You have all been very helpful! I'll keep you posted on the developments of this issue when I have had a chance to fiddle with things.

Is the AAV visible in any of the previous photos? I'm not in close proximity to my car at the moment, so I can't go look at it. But those two items are certainly good places for me to check. I'll try to inspect both of them this weekend maybe...

Thank very much, that makes a lot more sense now . I guess the picture confused me, because it looked like the wires were attached to the outside of the sensor. Now, I've seen some anti corrosion compound on battery terminals before, would something like that help if I decided not to solder?

I'm not sure that I entirely understand the purpose of soldering the wires to the tang. Doesn't that bypass the sensor? I'm sure I have no idea what I'm talking about though .

Yes, I know, it's a rather wet climate. Not entirely pleased about that, to be sure. I've seen a couple here and there on the road, but nothing like what I used to see back in Montana . They were all over the place. Even had a Subaru only mechanic in my town. Now, I can't even find just a good mechanic in general. And since we now live in an apartment building with on-street parking, doing work myself has become much less convenient. Btw, L2.7T, I very much like your yellow Sube . Looks great. Wish I had a paint job like that!

Ah yes, I do remember seeing that picture before . That's quite the crazy setup you've got yourself. Well, if I don't have time to get under all that stuff to the FI CTS, then I might ask a mechanic to replace it for me. However, is it visible enough to allow me to inspect it for corrosion? Because that might be enough right there. On a slightly different note, since you've got an IC in there, I noticed that the stock "cooler" has a small hose coming in underneath it (in mine). When I will be installing my IC, where should this hose be connected to? Before the intake of the IC, or after the output?

Hi guys, as I mentioned in my other thread, I have moved again not too long ago. I'm now in Wilmington, NC and curious to know if anyone on these boards lives in this town. Also, I'd love to know a good mechanic in my area too, which I still haven't found. I've heard about many shops in this town that are not good, but not any that are good. I would think, that with the beach here and all, there would be more Subarus (on account of 4WD and all). But I don't see all that many.

That's good info, Skip. Thank you. So is the FI CTS also the sensor which shows the temp of the coolant on your dash? I'm assuming it's not though, but I thought I'd ask. I previously had the IAC confused for the temp gauge sensor. Which is actually why I had replaced it at one point. So that's probably good . Now I'll have to go take a look at the FI CTS. Is it difficult to replace the FI CTS? It looks fairly accessible, but that doesn't mean anything in terms of removal. It also appears to be located underneath the turbo "cooler" (ha ha, as if ).

I appreciate all the hose clamping tips guys, but I think we've got that one figured out. And thank you for that. Still, a bigger issue now is the problem with the idle. So I just thought I would reiterate my issue here, since we're on the second page now... My idle has been doing stupid things now. It used to, very rarely, jump up and down between 1k and 3k rpm while stopped (at a light for instance). But now it has started doing this quite a lot. Even after the car is warmed up, the idle will stay at 2k or 3k, and then drop to 1k and go back up. I'm guessing this has something to do with the idle controller. I know nothing about what and where that actually is though . Thanks in advance for your replies!

Okay, well I've had some serious shaking going on in my car a few times. Most mechanics seem to have been pretty confounded by this issue, and I had all the obvious maintenance done on it. Checked the mounts too, which helped, but didn't make it go away. A few things which we eventually figured out was causing it. For startes, one of my CV joints was going out. So that got replaced, which brought about a noticeable decline in shaking. Then, for some reason when I got new rotors put on, they would not stay tight. It took multiple tries before the mechanic was able to get them to stay tight. So loose rotors, not so good as you can imagine . But here's the main cause of my shaking, which kept getting worse as time went by. It was the drive shaft. The u-joints were beginning to seize up. So they only needed to replace one section of the drive shaft first. But the shaking came back, and that's when the second section was replaced too. After a new drive shaft install, the shaking was gone. All of it! Well, except for when I hit 70 on the highway . But that's something else entirely. I hope maybe this will help, since I hadn't seen anyone else mention those possibilities.

Thanks, heartless. That's good to know. So now I just need to see if anyone's got an idea as to what the heck's going on with my idle (from first post above).

I'm not sure I want to know , ha ha .

That's good tips, thank you guys. Now I just need to locate where the fule pump is, and where the electric plug on it is as well. I have a haynes manual, but that this is not always very helpful.

Oh. . Ha ha, well that's probably a lot easier than messing with the fuel pump. Anything in particular that you use to clamp? Cause there's pressure in those hoses, right?

Hey everybody . Been gone for a long while. I was doing a bunch of traveling, and ended up moving again. Now I'm in Wilmington, NC. Anybody else living here with their subies? Well, I'd be glad to know if you are. Now to the matter at hand. When I was gone, my trusty old '87 GL-10 Turbo Wagon didn't see much use. It stood around mostly for about six months. Needless to say it wasn't very happy when I came back. I've been having little issues with it since then. So far I've replaced the battery, some leaky hose, head gasket, oil and filter, etc. Now I've been wanting to replace the fuel filter, and tried getting it to run dry by taking out the fuse for the fuel pump. Unfortunately, that didn't seem to work. It just kept going. 1. So I'm trying to figure out how I can shut of the fuel pump so I don't get doused in gas when i disconnet the line going to the filter (unlike the first time I ever did that!!). 2. My other question is this. My idle has been doing stupid things now. It used to, very rarely, jump up and down between 1k and 3k rpm while stopped (at a light for instance). But now it has started doing this quite a lot. Even after the car is warmed up, the idle will stay at 2k or 3k, and then drop to 1k and go back up. I'm guessing this has something to do with the idle controller. I know nothing about what and where that actually is though . Any help would be greatly appreciated, so thank you in advance!

Thank you for your clarification MroganM, though I suspect it was more for cap86's benefit that mine . I thought I would post my conclusion to the issue in this thread, so here it goes... I discovered that the ECU with model number 22611 AA140 (which came out of my Sube) is interchangeable with the 22611 AA141 model. Apparently the other model is the "replacement part number" or some such thing. I swapped out the faulty ECU in my car for this "new used" unit, which was a cakewalk. After reconnecting everything, I started her up and noticed that she started up smoother than I was used to. After driving for a few days I believe that my sube runs noticeably better. And for $50 (plus $20 s+h) this was a very worthwhile thing to do. I am quite happy with my results! For anyone else that's interested, I got the ECU from a place in my old state of residence, Montana. It's called Green Meadow Auto Salvage, and you can check them out at www.greenmeadowautosalvage.com. They have been courteous, friendly, and helpful on the phone and I am very satisfied with my purchase from them. Yay, that's another Sube problem fixed!

Any ideas folks...?

Update... As noted previously, the smoke and smell went away and never came back. So that was good. I haven't had anyone reply with wanting to sell me an ECU, so I went to look for one myself. I found one from a salvage place and ordered it, specifying the model number to them to be an AA140, and they sent it out to me. Having received the package recently, it turned out that they sent me an AA141 model however. Does anyone know whether they are interchangeable/compatible? How could I find out if they are? If they are not, I'll have to send it back to the seller . Information on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

*bump* Actually if anyone else has got an ECU/ECM that will work for my 87 Turbo, I would greatly appreciate it. Perhaps I should start "looking for ECU" thread though . I ran the car after the "smoke" incident for a while, and I think my suspicions that it was just some oil on the surrounding area evaporating was right. I haven't seen any smoke since then. It seems to be running better now too. Nevertheless, I still get some fuel-like odor in the engine compartment, which has been going on for a long time, so replacing the ECU might be a good idea if it's not operating accurately. So, still looking for an ECU. I may just have to order one from Hal's though .

Oh sure. I see how it is. First you get my hopes up by making me think there's another subaru fan close by, and then you crush them by telling me your moving away!!! He he, just kidding. I did also look into my own Sube Repair Manual (I think mine's a Haynes), and found info on the ECU. It's right under the steering wheel in that mess of stuff. So I figured I can do that myself without too much trouble . Now I just have to hope that someone (i.e. calebz) is going to find that ECU. If not, I'll probably have to drop the money on one from Hal's. But not before checking a few other sources. I actually might be able to get one shipped from my former excellent Subaru mechanic back in MT. He always had loads of parts laying around.

He he, that's one convoluted looking setup . But still cool. That's a spider intake right?

So, since were getting a bit off topic, does anyone else have pics of their IC setup that we haven't posted here yet...? Always interested to see how folks are doing theirs .

You know, the thought had crossed my mind as well, ha ha .