XCSP700

if you follow the main engine wiring harness down from where it hooks to the water temp sensor on the gooseneck there should be one wire that will hook to the oil pressure sensor. I think its the last wire in that harness.

If you have spark at the coil I can only imagine that the distributor is working and the motor isn't timed right. Try turning the distributor while cranking the engine. If the timing is too far retarded it will fire after the piston is on its way back down the bore. turn it slowly clockwise. You did say that you were adjusting the timing, Correct?

everything is here: http://waybackmachine.org/20080801000000*/http://www.endwrench.com alot of it anyway -Rich

You're gonna cook the starter doing this. its a Subaru, not a ups van. You're girlfriend will be way more pissed when the car won't start at a green light because you needed to save $.02

I don't see how it could hurt. a 195 degree thermostat might get you there either way get the car good and hot before the test and don't let it sit too long between parking it and getting it tested. 10 min tops. what are your readings for hc and nox?

I pulled the engine out of the car with 3 ratchet straps hooked around a beam in the garage. (ratchet straps aren't meant for lifting, don't get yourself killed) i would go back and forth between the 3 running one all the way in. doing the other 2, loosening the first one and starting again from there until i had the engine out. Then i rolled the car out from under it. and me and a friend picked it up off the hooks and put it down by hand. It's not too heavy. I would never attempt to do it in the car, its so much nicer working on it on a bench.

thanks!

anyone else know what the total distributor timing is supposed to be?

any luck?

EA82 FWD 21x7/8" EA82 4x4 24x1" (I don't think this is always the case) xt6 24x1" ej 24x1" source: LUK online catalog

Put a Weber on it. I don't think you will be able to get rid of too much of that junk without replacing the stock carb.

any luck?

Looking at it again I'm suprised the skis have enough room. They must be on top of the wheel wells right?

awesome

Napa Has Conti timing belts for 10 and 11 dollars. conti stuff is super good quality too

Have them mail them to you. Get 3 make it worth your while. And grab some oil filters, and drain plug gaskets while you're at it And yes, fitment is a word.

if the google currency exchange rate rate calculator was right it would cost $115 usd. Doesn't sound bad at all. But the freight to get the fenders shipped here from NZ would end up costing more than the part. I remember years ago looking to get a suspension kit for my corolla shipped here from Australia was like $200 or something like that and would've taken 3 months

any luck with those advance curves gd?

is the ac/defroster on? maybe it needs a charge, that would cause the fan to run quickly

i just found this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-1985-1987-1-8L-OHC-EA82-Weber-Carb-Conversion-/330495465327?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item4cf310976f its $319 and free shipping

Ok, I spun the distributor today, 14 degrees all in at 5k!! 12 degrees on inside advance, 7 on outside. I'm gonna have to find some lighter springs or heaver weights. If I set the 10 initial like you recommended i'll be running 38 total, if i can limit it to about 10-13 and get it all in around 2500 i think it will run good, as for the vac advance, I'll either run without it or hook up the outside one. I'll have to experiment with that. SubaruGL: If you live in CT I'd be happy to get you the carb kit , I get a break on weber stuff. $359 for the electric choke, $299 manual. plus $15 freight. You'll have to pick it up here. I don't want to ship it.

Looks cool. What's it getting for a mill?

Yeah, I was planning on recurving it. or a least checking it out. I have a distributor machine at work. I use it all the time, though usually for v8s. I should be able to make it fire, I've done plenty of other electronic distributors with the machine. My suspicion (from turning the rotor by hand) is that it comes in very late, But I will know for sure monday/tuesday. If you could check to see what the total timing is in the manual I would appreciate it. just the # of degrees and the rpm that it stops advancing will be enough for me you don't have to got through the trouble of scanning it. Anouther update. I pulled the intake cam boxes and heads toninght. the bores look great (no ridge, nice crosshatch) but the back of 3 of the intake valves and the tops of the pistons have alot of carbon buildup, so I think it will need valve seals.

Update. Just pulled engine. it was too easy! Timing belts look good. but the idler bearings howl. oil is leaking form everywhere.(front and rear mainsm cams oil pump, headgaskets) got most of the external stuff stripped off the engine. the EGR valve is shot so i think I'm gonna make a blockoff plate for it and for the air injector pipes near the exhaust ports. I'll try to pull the cam boxes and heads tomorrow. Maybe drop them off at the machine shop monday to get em cleaned. So far so good. once i get the distrubutor in the machine I'll let you guys know what the curve is like. springs in there feel awfully stiff!!

any input on the timing?