l75eya

Black squarish box is an old aftermarket alarm system that was on the car when I got it. I made sure the wires were cut and have just left it there. Good spot to lean on when I'm working over there. :-P Positive battery cable has a 100 amp fuse. Part of stereo system. Asvs I've left alone. I just put filters on the lines so no crap falls down into them. I like the sound of them being open.

Still not positive on my jets. I'll get around to it. Fixed the throttle binding. Set timing to 20 degrees. Running fantastic. Think my cold idle is better too, I'll know for sure tomorrow. If it's running fine it's safe to say I can leave the jets alone yes? If it ain't broke don't fix it sorts thing.. Some pictures. Thanks for all the replies/advice/and help.

Done :-)

Weber install complete:

Double post.

Definitely good advice. Is there a number stamped on the jet? How can I tell?

Use automatic transmission fluid. Not power steering fluid. ATF is lighter on the internals. Easier steering as well

That's exactly what I was thinking. I'll probably give the choke an adjustment later today. I have to give some attention to the throttle linkage as well as it's too tight (it's very difficult to give very little throttle) and it occasionally sticks a slight bit. Not cool.

You can put a catch can in the line before the air filter if you have to. Is your motor high milage?

Driver's side house that goes to air cleaner must be smaller diameter than hose from driver's side to pcv

I honestly have no idea what the jet sizes are. It was a kit for Datsuns. Its also a north american built weber (black choke housing). I have advanced the timing but my timing light was commandeered by my brother so I don't know the exact number i'm at. All I know is that when the motor is cool it runs terrible. Like missing and smoking out the exhaust. As soon as it's warmed up, it's perfectly smooth.

Running great when warm. Terrible when cold. Terrible. Thankfully my car warms up quickly. Thinking of adjusting the choke so it's not fully closed when on cold idle cam. Definitely running too rich.

You can grab any solenoid. Doesn't have to be one for our cars. I have one spliced in from an 89 ford tempo in my Loyale. Unless you want it to be factory of course; then you have to shell out the money.

Weber is done. Now just fine adjustments. And figuring out having NO cold idle. Throttle a bit too tight. In time!

Lmao! That trailer is twice the width of the car! No problem seeing that out the mirrors lol.

Gave that ea82 a weber. ea82's love webers. also, re-routed PVC lines, got rid of a BUNCH of stuff. New spark plugs. Timing advanced. Car is happy.

Pretty much all done. Gotta hook up throttle linkage and get a couple breather lines set up. Weber ea82: Cell phone video makes the car sound like a cammed out big block 8 lol. Fired right up. Little bit of running and sounds good. No bogs. Smooth. Very happy.

Thanks DJ, that takes care of my first two questions. Still remains What's up with the sensor/whatever I have photographed in the third pic with the brown/orange wire? And a confirmation on the ease of removal of that spiderweb of metal vac lines coming off the thermo-vac switch. I'm pretty sure the metal lines are removable as I saw a picture of Jes-Zek's intake manifold with that part removed.

What I've gathered so far is that the 2nd picture I have posted is the ASV "Air pump" As djellum very thoroughly explains in post #15 here: ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138962-just-a-thought/ ) I now have a decent understanding of the ASV system. I still don't know if my first picture above of that more triangular black box is part of the ASV system as well.

Answered my own question about the thermo vac switch in post #46 of Kanury's engine thread linked above.

Will get to searching on that. ASV for short I see. Any ideas on whether it's a bad idea to just keep it open? (aside from the noise) Edit: update. YES, there is a side effect to leaving the asv lines open; backfiring. At least in my case. I have a pretty free flowing exhaust no cat, big muffler, and the backfiring was getting ridiculous. Closing up those asvs took care of it completely.

So, it was inevitable. I've been living by Jes Zek's guide ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ ) as well as Kanury's excellent section ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110926-seshs-1987-gl-build-thread/page-2?hl=sesh ) in his build thread, and this other thread ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126083-weber-carb-for-my-87-gl/page-3 ) while going through my swap. I am missing a few answers I need though.. Basically I'm wondering...what's this? This big black box by the distributor is on the driver's side of the engine and has a large diameter vac line that heads up to where to old air box was. What is it and what can I do with it? My next question is the same, but for a different part This is on the pass. side of the motor. Right above the transmission. Has another very large (pictured) diam. vac line that went to the original air box. What is it and what can I do with it? and then, traveling back to the driver's side of the intake manifold, on the rear side of it is this switch with 1 brown/orange wire attached. I honestly don't remember why I wanted to ask what this was. I'm sure I will when i get back to work on the car tomorrow though. Could you guys please tell me what this is and if it is a necessary component, or something that can be removed. Next up is a multi part question about this thermo-vac switch. This guy is on the pass side and from it's 3 ports it connects to a spaghetti like series of vac ports. As you can see, most of my caps went to it's ports. I want to get rid of it ENTIRELY. Is this possible? I'm pretty sure I tracked the metal lines that come from it and go under the intake manifold pretty well, and I'm fairly certain on of it's lines is what the vac advance off the distributor connects to. I plan on connecting the vac advance to the assigned port for it on the Weber when it's on. if I cap off the three ports on the switch itself, will I be able to remove all these metal lines easily without removing the intake manifold? Pretty sure the switch with the brown wire actuated some type of vac connection I've already removed and that's why I want to get rid of the switch but idk I can't BELIEVE how much stuff I've gotten rid of. It's great! I plan to only have basically Vac. Advance Brake Booster HVAC PCV valve.... That's it I think! And that pleases me greatly. I was GOING to keep the EGR valve, but it was connected to that thing on the fenderwell, and mine has been malfunctioning for years, so I decided to get rid of it and threw the delete plate on today as well. Can't wait to get everything together!

Intake manifold holes. Where the original Hitachi studs were. My weber only came with 8 mil bolts to attach the first adapter plate. Holes on the manifold are 6mm What screws did you use? I've heard of others using something else too. I'm doing what Jes Zek did in his guide.

Got the old carburetor off. Most of the useless vac lines are out too. Prepped for tomorrow. Gotta tap the holes on the intake manifold to accept the Weber's 8mm Allen bolts. Then hopefully I'll have everything installed shortly after! :-)

Lookie what came in the mail! :-D This should fix it! Stand by for all the "how do I install a weber" threads that I'm about to start. just kidding.