Cyfun
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Posts posted by Cyfun
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So what other IFS diffs might work for a rearend swap? A Toyota front IFS? Frankenstein the Toyota inners to the Subaru outer CVs? Or swap the locking Toyota hubs over completely?
I'm guessing there are clearance issues with truck IFS diffs, but if you've got your diff dropped for a lift anyway, would that provide enough clearance?
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Tempted to just paypal the guy, and pick it up when I'm there for turkeyday.
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Hey Randy, speaking of Quantums, just saw this on Bozeman craigslist. You should get it, if only to sell to me when I can get my rump roast out there. Would make for a ***************in parts car, or to leave as is, or to try and lift!
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I'm considering just swapping the locking spindles and hubs from a Toy or Nissan or somethin. Hoping I can just find something with a matching spline. Otherwise, could frankenstein a CV I suppose. Doesn't sound like anyones found a good entire diff to swap over.
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Um, don't ea82 fwd/hi4/lo4 transmissions already lock the center diff when engaged in hi or low 4?
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And there we have it folks, the solution.
A VW Quantum Synchro Wagon came in to the junkyard yesterday, so I did a bit of research on it, and ripped the rear diff out of it today.
You will need to build mounts for it, and splice the VW driveshaft and inner axles to the subaru outer axles and driveshaft, but none of that is too difficult with the moustache bar mounting system in the old subarus. It would be a bit harder in the legacy/imp gen subarus, but I'm sure it could be done.
The Quantum Synchro's have 4.11 rear diffs in them with a locker run by a vacuum acutator that hooks to a lever sticking out of the diff. Easy to replace the vacuum canister with a cable to the center console. Or, you could use the shifter/button, vacuum solenoids and wiring setup out of a pushbutton 4x4 subaru to run the rear diff lock. Would be pretty swanky to lock the rear diff with a push of a button on the top of the shifter.
Audi 5000 quattro's have 3.89 rear diffs with the same locking system.
I'll get some pictures of the audi/vw rear diff in comparison to a subaru rear diff, but it is a bit bulkier in height and width than the subaru one owing to it's aluminum case rather than the r160 cast iron one.
But it's a relatively compact independent suspension rear diff with the right ratios and a locker.
Here's what you're looking for in a junkyard:
You lucky bastard, that's a sweet find! How much did the diff run ya?
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You made it there and back without issue?! Incredible!
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Dayum! Gotta watch out for those wild fences! Trees can be just as bad. Glad you and the rig are intact. Next upgrade to consider might be a drag parachute.
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As long as you're sure it's the right wire. Those parts store testers are a joke. They've given me bad alternators and starters that tested fine, but when I spent half a day swapping them in and out repeatedly, still didn't work.
And vice versa, I took my pickup there once cause it seemed like the alt wasn't charging. Their tester said the alt was bad. Bought a new one and a voltage regulator, and it still didn't charge. Finally found that the stupid charge wire from teh alt to the pos terminal was loose. Bastard had tested the alternator AT THE POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. At least it was an old Dodge with a cheap alternator.
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I had the same problem with mine after I got it all swapped. I found out I was just unlucky and got a bad alternator. I replaced it with one of a parts car I had a 91 legacy EJ22 one. worked fine. just had a different plug switched it out. been charging fine ever since.
Although I do need a new starter. just so you know it is different than all the other subaru starters and a biotch to find. ha ha
Heh, I bet when the parts store got back your bad alternator, they sent it to the manufacturer, who had it test fine, and sent it to Rob's parts store.
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I bet that's your problem. Easy to miss in the whole wiring conversion cluster************.
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With the car running, if you use a voltmeter to check voltage between the big positive wire on the alt and the alt ground, does it show anything?
What about the wiring coming in to the alt from the ignition that tells it what to put out. The exciter wire, I think it's called. If not that, then it could just be a random bad alt.
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IT LIVES!!!! I drove it today just a little because all i have is the ebrake to stop with at the moment. It has great power and torque but the acceleration kinda sucks. my 5 speed legacy is quicker from a stop. So needless to say after the show the 4eat is getting 86ed and a 5 speed in a its place.
As for the FP it is working great it should have no problem being as its off a 2.7L and this is only a 2.0 the car already ran fine with the stock 1.8 FI FP in it and i put the XT6 one in today i was amazed at the size difference nearly twice as long as the stocker.
Cheers R.
Way cool! Yeah, to hell with the auto. Its not like we can get 3500 stall converters for these abominations. Stick is way more fun.
As for the pump, displacement doesn't matter when you're pushing boost, especially when you've got two damn snails going. If you're pushing 14psi, you've doubled your air, and thusly your fuel and power. But if it runs fine, it runs fine. How much boost do you hit, anyway?
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Ah, so you're going electrical? Are you at least gonna use the Toy sticks to start with?
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How hard would it be to just stick a Walbro 255lph on there? They're only a hundo darra.
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Wicked cool. Doesn't look like you've got much left til it's drivable. How much longer there, ya think?
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I will probably be doing fronts eventually. Right now this is just an experiment. I think the stock fronts are those single filament bulbs.
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I'm in the process of making LED tailights for my XT6 and have figured out how to make them, and to make them sequential like the new Mustangs:banana:
Holy balls, you've gotta share how you setup the sequencing. I've been looking high and low for a way, but most of them are either expensive or are complicated diy setups with a dozen relays and diodes.
I'm making homemade LED tail/brake/rev/turn signal lights for my GLW. So far, got one of my turn signals done. Used about 45 white bulbs in it, in rows of 4 in series with an 82 ohm resistor. Now I've gotta convert my turn signal flasher relay from the stupid comboswitch to a standard flasher that's electronic and not thermal, cause right now it flashes about 40 times a sec.
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Oh, durr, I'm blind. Thought the subject of the thread had just changed.
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It's running? When did that happen? Video!
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WOW, that's a bigger tire than I expected!
How about w/o fender trim? and all season street tires?
I'm not completely sure, as I'm going off of my GL wagon, but you can probably rock 26s. Might just get away with some fender rolling instead of trimming.
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I know I'm saving up for a 2" lift on my brat. Any idea how big a tire will fit on a 2"? (going to go to Toyota 15" rims)
Depending on if you do much fender trimming, probably 27s or so, mayne 28s.
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What if you ran it up an A pillar and down the roof to the back?
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You ran dual pipes all the way back, huh? Dayum, does that take up much room?
If it were me with a turbo setup, I'd be tempted to just run it up and out of the hood.
Does any one make a locker for a Suby?
in Off Road
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Yeah, mine's got 3.90s, but luckily Soob made 4.11s. Were those in the automatics?
But wait, you say most folks who want lockers are in newer soobs without a high/low tcase? I would have thought most who have a subaru for offroading are in an ea82 or ea81 specifically because it has lowrange. If you've got a newer car with AWD, then your offroading is probably mostly higher speed stuff such as mudding and rallying, in which case LSD works well enough. Amiright?