Cyfun
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Posts posted by Cyfun
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Probably wanna stay away from a 2.5 due to the reliability issues. And bear in mind that having an entire parts car might be a good idea, especially if you're swapping to a manual.
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With a 2 inch lift, those tires would fit, but you'd have to trim fenders quite a bit, and some hammering on the firewall part of the front fender if you wanted to be able to turn sharply.
A 4" lift would make for a better daily driver cause your axles and control arms wouldn't be at such a steep angle, and your tires wouldn't rub as bad. I'm probably going towards a 4" soon myself cause I'm getting a bit of rubbing and this is my daily driver.
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If you can find an EJ22 for a good deal, might as well go with that. The engines are basically the same except for the EJ18 has about 110hp and the EJ22 has about 135hp.
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Even $1500 seems a bit steep to me. I'd say $1000 tops.
Here in Montana Subarus are very popular, and there are a ton of early-90s Legacies around. Most with some minor dings and dents, maybe hail damage, but rarely rust cause they don't salt the roads much here. You can find ones that are a bit beat up but in good mechanical condition for $500-1500. Cars without any body damage, especially Outbacks, tend to go for $2500-4000.
Having said that, I think even $1500 is a steep price on that because as other folks have said, it sounds like this wasn't very well maintained. Probably gonna need a timing belt, brake rotors, wheelbearings and possibly axles soon. I would rather have a more beat-up car that's in better mechanical condition. If I were you, see if he will take $1000, otherwise keep looking. Might not hurt to pay a mechanic $50-80 to have them do an inspection on it.
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Interesting, how wide are your tires?
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Are you referring to the EA82 dual range 5 speed, or the EJ AWD 5 speed?
The EJ trans will swap straight across, but I think you'll need the driveshaft shortened. The EA trans will just need an adaptor plate, and probably a new clutch while you're at it.
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They do also make a 205/50r15 and 205/55r15, which are a tiny bit shorter and taller than stock, respectively.
Why do you want to change rims if you don't plan on lifting or offroading? Having less sidewall will make for a rougher ride.
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It's not too difficult, just gotta find a parts car. There were two kinds of cruise: factory installed and dealer installed. One had the cruise buttons on the steering wheel below the horn, the other had the buttons to the left of the wheel over by the rear defrost buttons.
Just gotta steal those buttons, wiring, control module, and the throttle actuator, I believe. There are a few threads on this lying around.
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That's what I was thinkin, just buyin calipers new instead of tryna pull something used. Those Hondas are pretty pricey new, but I might have better luck finding some at the JY that I could look at before I buy.
As far as that caliper bracket goes, anyone have a spare bracket lying around that they could give me some measurements on? I'm starting to think that it doesn't matter, that I can probably eyeball it enough to work fine. The holes just need to line up on the trailing arm and the caliper, and the caliper doesn't need to be super precise in how it lines up with the disc. My only concern is that the thickness of the metal may matter.
Also... what about just using an EA82 front caliper? Has anyone considered that?
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Some coolant heaters can just splice in to your lower radiator hose. But an oil pan heater would be a good place to start, and is less invasive. Block heaters aren't necessarily to warm up your entire engine for you, but to warm up certain components enough so that the damn thing will start. Once started, the rest will warm up fast.
In my experience with cold start problems, it was that my oil had become too viscous, preventing the oil pump from turning, and thusly the rest of the engine. I started putting an incandescent lightbulb under my oil pan every evening, and it put out enough heat to warm my oil just enough so that the bastard would start.
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Believe me, with those tires you're running, you'll love having both an EJ22 and a dual range trans. I just finished mounting my 235/75r15's this weekend, and am very glad that I don't have the stock motor. At 80mph in 5th gear I'm only doing 3000rpm.
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Interesting, ill have to look into that clutch idea.
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you know idk why none has mentioned this but why not just put in a hydro ebrake and keep the stock front parking brake?..
I read a bit about that idea on some toyota forums. Apparently, for one its illegal in some states cause your emergency brake can't depend on the hydrauling system. Plus, then you're messing with something far more complicated than a few cables.
Maybe the thing would be to have a line lock for the fronts, so you could just hit the button to block pressure to the fronts, then mash the brake pedal to send all force to the backs.
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You prolly mean the 4x140mm pattern, as toyota chevy is 6x139.7mm or 6x5.5in. But yeah, you're stuck with 13" subaru stock rims, or the rare peugeot or subaru 14". Convert to 6 lug and you've got all kinds of 14s, 15s, 16s in aluminum or steel and various offsets. Right now I'm rockin some 15in chevy steelies that I got for like $30. Prolly worth more in scrap, ha!
If you get a spare set of hubs, you can always go back to 4 lug, too.
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In the USRM, under the brake section, is my writeup of the 200SX swap. There are LOTS of pictures of the project and parts involved.
Ya, I saw your posts on it, I jus don't have any 200 or 240sx's locally. And I'd like to find somethin I can affix an ebrake to. Also, your thread doesn't really narrow down which years of cars to use, or how brake cables could be attached.
Actually, there is a 200sx but its like a 97 and is fwd, and I assume that won't work.
I'm mainly looking for answers on rear parking brake setups, and not just rear disc. I mean, one can probably make a lot of calipers fit by simply making a custom bracket, just a matter of sourcing the right caliper. And one that preferrably doesn't cost a pretty penny. Was eying some of those Honda ones and they were arouns $80 EACH.
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The hub? Drilling the rims to 4-lug is doable, but I always have a helluva time getting the holes centered properly. Converting your hubs to 6-lug is actually easier, and would be nice in the long run cause then you can mount up any 6-lug rim you want, but you won't be able to go back to 4-lug.
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Lol yes, but my local junkyards are slim pickins. I did finally find a GL-10, but everything is really really rusted, and they want like $40 just for the pair of caliper brackets! And that's if I pull them myself, which would mean probably a couple hours of crawling around in the mud under that car.
My main concern, though, is the ease of attaching rear e-brake cables. Perhaps the Honda calipers are better in that respect. Also, if I were to fab my own caliper brackets, I could redesign it so that the caliper is clocked differently.
So can you guys tell me at least if the caliper brackets are just flat pieces of metal or if they're bent in any way? If they're pretty much flat, I'd just need to know how thick they are, and it would be easy to cut some out and position them however I like.
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Indeed. I argue with them that why is my premium based off my car being in retail condition, but when there's a claim, they dispute the value of my car? If my car isn't worth as much, then shouldn't my premiums be less?
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I've been pouring over all the old threads on swapping calipers from Nissan 240 and 200sx's and whatnot, but nothing really gives me a clear idea of what will and won't work.
From what I've been able to gather, rear calipers from 240sx's and 200sx's will bolt to the EA82 rear disc caliper brackets, however the angles at which the rear parking brake arm come out either face the wrong way or will rub on the trailing arm.
I did just stumble across an Austrailian thread that claims 1980's Honda Accord rear calipers will bolt right up (apparently Soob and Honda used the same brake suppliers back then) and the parking brake is easier to hook up.
I am wondering if anyone here has tried this Honda method.
Also, I'm having a hard time tracking down some EA82 rear disc caliper brackets. Was curious if they are anything special or if I could fabricate some. Do they have any bends or are they flat? Either way, could somebody possibly trace one onto some paper with some measurements so I could try and replicate one? If it turns out to not be too difficult, would be happy to make and sell them. Altho if it were that easy, you'd think someone like SJR would have already done it.
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when looking for a tire size that will work on the 14 inch wheel, I look for a tire that will be about the same height and width as what the stock tires would have been, the stock tires are close to 26 inch, and I always revert to this web page when looking at tires : http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
it compares the stock tire size in height and width to what ever tire size you might be looking at.
26 inch? The stock tires are closer to 23 inch. 26 inch is about all you can fit without a lift and with minor cutting.
Dj729199: You'll want to find a drill bit size 35/64" for drilling your stud holes. I actually found one at Carquest for $14, which is pretty cheap. And I would recommend doing your lift BEFORE installing tires, or else you risk chewing the crap out of them from rubbing like I did. A 2 inch lift is a good place to start cause you don't need to lift the body, and 26 or 27 inch tires are a good gearing for the stock motor.
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Won't you have to leave the axle stubs in, though?
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The fronts are easy. On the strut, just below the spring, there are two nuts. Wrench them around a few turns, keeping track to make them even.
On the back, they can be tricky cause you're dealing with rust and the spring pressure. On the bottom of the shock is a collar with notches that will rotate if you can relieve some of the spring pressure on it. Might wanna squirt some penetrating oil around it first. I never did get mine freed up. Might have to completely remove the top nut from the damn thing to get the pressure off the spring. Tried using some coil spring compressors, but these springs are too small to grab on to properly.
Why do you wanna lower the front and raise the back? Is it sagging that much? Most EA82s are much lower in front than back as it is.
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A snatch strap is what you want. They're made of nylon webbing that's designed to stretch, so if you're on a low traction surface, you can build up a little speed and more gently pull folks out with your momentum. If you've ever watched Top Gear's race to the north pole, you'll know what I'm talking about, cept their was a proper giant bungee cord.
I keep a snatch strap attached to my tow hooks and coiled up in my trunk all-year round, cause you never know when you'll need it. Most folks who get stuck in the winter don't need much. They usually are just stuck on a small patch of ice or in a rut in the middle of the street. Often times it would be far more dangerous to leave them there blocking traffic and potentially causing an accident.
Having said that, there are also a lot of overconfident *********************es who drive big turbo diesel trucks and SUVs who think that just cause they're 4-wheel drive means they're invincible, and it makes it all the more satisfying to pull a big badass truck out of a ditch with my rusty little GL wagon.
Of course I'm in Montana so I'm not nearly as worried about sue-happy pricks.
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Exactly, all you get is less travel. And the wording is confusing. The only way this would make sense is to either just throw on the adjustable coilovers and only lift it 2" with those, or for 4" treat it as a normal lift with body blocks and strut brackets, but then have adjustable coilovers.
The main point is that if you're going past 2" you must lift body and diff.
Definitive EA82 Rear Parking Brake Thread
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
Do I have to switch to 5-lug? I'm running a 6-lug setup right now.