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Cyfun

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Posts posted by Cyfun

  1. I really like that idea of just making an extension on the existing bracket. Then you could drill a couple holes in it to make it adjustable. Someone could make a lil cash if they made these into kits.

     

    There might be an easy way to bend tabs onto it so you wouldn't need an extra bolt to keep it from rotating. Perhaps if it were mounted on the inside of those brackets rather than the outside.

  2. Did you get a rental car out of them? If not, they owe you for lack-of-use until they actually write you a check for your settlement. Varies from state to state, but they often have to give you a comparable rental, which means finding an AWD rental car.

     

    To answer your question, though, the curb weight is probably about 2000lbs. If I were you, though, I'd strip off the valuable parts before scrapping it.

  3. Looks like the front right and rear left have a ton of camber, and the other two don't. You probably want around 1 degree of negative camber at each front tire, and they could probably use more caster, too. And the toe-out in the back would be worth a look.

     

    On my car with the EJ22 swap, when I accelerate, the front lifts really hard and causes the front tires to get a ton of positive camber, making them ride on the outer edges and get almost no traction, so I tend to burn out a lot. I ended up cutting bigger bolt holes in the strut tower, so at rest it probably has a couple degrees of camber and caster. Had to play with it a bit so it would drive straight, but it does help.

  4. It would work, but I wouldn't use it. On an ea82 you'd wanna angle the mounts inward to keep your camber angles. I'd just stick with metal. It's not that expensive. Dunno about everywhere else, but the scrap metal yard here has a good selection for 25 cents a pound. I was able to get enough to build a full 4" lift for under $10.

  5. I hate to say it, but as the axles are pretty easy to swap in and out, I just use the cheapo axles from O'Reilly's cause they have a lifetime warranty. I just keep the receipt in the glovebox, and once or twice a year when I start smelling grease on my catalytic converter cause a boot tore, I just return it for a new one.

     

    Luckily this is just an around-town and offroad car. If I did much highway driving I wouldn't mess around with cheap axles.

  6. Thought about it, but that would take up more space, and probably cost more, whereas if your car already has AC that's likely already not working, might as well use it, right? Plus, A/C compressors can put out pretty good pressure and volume. I've read that most folks can fill a big tire in about 60 seconds, and can even run air tools. And since an AC compressor is designed to run refrigerant at about 300psi, as long as you keep it lubricated, it will probably last a while. Not to mention a helluva lot quieter.

  7. Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I'm working on this project as well. My 86 GLW came with an EJ22 swapped in, and the AC was disconnected but the PO did give me the EJ22 compressor. Gonna grab an oiler and filter setup from harbor freight, and am gonna try to use the giant 4x6" tube I installed for a rear bumper as an air tank. Looks like the hardest part is simply converting the plumbing from the compressor to some usable pipe threads.

     

    Another silly idea I just had was to attach the input of the compressor to my engine's PCV system. It'd kind of work as a crankcase evac system, and my blowby would be captured by the oil seperator downstream from the compressor.

     

    I've been digging around on the Intarwebs, and nobody has put together a properly comprehensive guide to doing this, so once I've got the parts I'll see if I can do a little writeup.

  8. That does look badass but Im 99% sure the stock suspension will give you that much travel too.

     

    Yeah, you can get that much travel out of a lot of things if you lower the diff far enough and have room to stuff massive shocks in there. It more comes down to how high you can keep the diff in relation to how low your CVs will let you drop, not to mention if you've got bigger tires, how far they will go before they hit a fender.

     

    I've always thought that to get the most travel, you would lower your diff as far as you could, like 10 inches, then mount up some stiff shocks angled so that you get a lot of travel without raising the height too much, but keep tires pretty short so that they can stuff back into the wheel well. You wouldn't gain much clearance, per se, but you'd get enough travel to gain decent articulation and dampening ability.

  9. Finally got around to doing the hvac backlights today. Gotta say it was super easy... anyone who needs to replace theirs, its no sweat. :D

     

    407284_348392498511311_100000216909175_1638108_280029365_n.jpg

     

     

    Now I gotta do all the little backlights in the cluster. :/

    I'll leave that for another day. lol

     

    391076_348392535177974_100000216909175_1638109_2063517901_n.jpg

     

    I just remembered another weird thing going on. See how the 4wd light is on? Its in fwd. :confused: The light never shuts off... When I put it in 4wd hi, the light stays on, and in 4wd low the "low" light comes on. Im just really perplexed as to why the 4wd light is always on.

     

    Still haven't gotten the door chime to work, I'll figure that out sometime soon as well. :-p

     

    Yeah, take the console and boot off and there should be a funny little button. Try unhooking it and see what happens. However, dunno about your Brat, but on my EA82 wagon, that button merely controls the LOW light and not the 4x4 light. The 4x4 light switch is somewhere else.

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