Cyfun
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Posts posted by Cyfun
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Depending on the size of your PCV hose, I usually just use a big clear gas filter. Worked great on my Talon.
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This
plus this
equals this
I might add that the Toyota you see in the pictures got fairly stuck in the same locations, whereas my GLW with a 2 inch lift had no issues. IFS FTW!
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Sounds like a good plan. Can't hurt to try the 4.10s if they're already there. And the Toy's low range is a lot lower than the Suby's low, so that'll help immensely.
What size tires are you gonna run?
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Rather than trying to figure out how to make a locker or fab another kind of rearend on, perhaps we should look further into installing locking hubs on the rear wheels so we can just weld the diff. We'd probably see an increase in fuel economy when running in FWD mode cause the rear CVs and propshaft wouldn't be spinning.
Might just be a matter of fabbing front hubs from a Toyota truck on, or maybe even swap the entire Toyota IFS over.
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Just found this thread. Epic project, man. I'm very curious to see how this thing drives. Poor articulation and high gearing are the biggest problems when making an offroading Suub, and you've found the best way to combat them without resorting to go 'Merkan on it and just throw a Legacy body on a Bronco chassis.
What I'm most curious about is how you mount your Toy hubs to the Suub, and whether you're gonna put your locking hubs on the front or the rear. I've always thought it'd be sweet to weld both diffs and have locking hubs on each wheel.
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cool, i was wondering about this a while ago.
I wonder can we find the pre-amp circuits in the radio, so we can amplify raw sound and some nice clarity...
Good idea. Probably. The circuit is dead simple, so it shouldn't be difficult. However, so far I'm getting quite good sound quality as it is.
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why not just use a marine amplifier. Not water proof but they are water resistant. I have always wanted to try one of the Clarion units but there are many others and most will fit under the seat as long as you arent trying to push huge power.
Mike
Thought about it, but I don't wanna spend much money, and I have 3 amps already.
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No resistor, just jumped it. I wasn't detecting any resistance when testing with the tape deck, and it seems to be working fine. Great, in fact. The only distortion I get is alternator noise when my mp3 player/phone is on the charger, which I will soon rectify with a capacitor of some kind.
Next step is gonna be to hook up an amplifier. Hard part is that I don't want it visible, and it needs to be waterproof. Prolly gonna just build some sort of waterproof box and mount it in my spare tire location. Tryna think of how I can vent the thing, too. Might just run some ducting through the firewall with a 12v computer case fan.
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Okay, so I tried it, and IT WORKS! IT WORKS GREAT! The sound quality in that lil stereo is pretty decent, too. Now imma hafta wire up an amp and some decent component speakers, and maybe hide a sub in back.
Factory stereo FTW!!!
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Sorry to dredge up an old post, but I'm working on the same thing. I've got my tape deck out, and using my DMM I did find that when there is no tape in, the circuit between the two outermost pins (white and red supposedly) is open. However, if I put a tape in (or trigger the mechanism to simulate a tape in), the circuit closes. I do see a few ohms of resistance, but it could also be my cheapo Harbor Freight DMM talking.
Either way, I think it's safe to say that this is our tape insertion switch. My only remaining question is whether blue is the ground for black left and yellow right, or whether it uses chassis ground. Guess I'll find out!
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As we've all seen dragsters and whatnot with headers and exhaust that ends by the transmission, I'd say 2 to 3 feet would probably be enough.
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What an excellent idea! Wish I'd thought of that last month when I had to replace my alt. Not that I have any need for it... yet.
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Might try just drilling out the upper strut mount bolt holes a bit so that you can shift it inward a bit. It's ugly but it helps.
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Very nice! I've been considering moving my upper mounts to give myself more travel and a smoother ride...
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Whos the guy who does the cheaper 2" lift? I think its $150 or so, made from the steel tubing. Nowhere near as nice as the SJR stuff, just the functional basic lift.
You might be thinking of Michael Appel: http://subarugllifted.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2020636
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I'm interested in a 2" lift for my '86 GLW. Is that just strut tops, then?
Does any one make a locker for a Suby?
in Off Road
Posted
I think the r200 route is a viable option, but not for the typical Sooby offroader, because your typical Sooby offroader is operating on a very low budget. Hence the Sooby.