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Loyale90

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Posts posted by Loyale90

  1. 2 inch or 12 inch or 20 inch. Angle stays the same.

     

    16 degrees for EJ (Legacy, Imp, Forrester)

     

    17 degrees for EA82

     

    14 degrees for EA81

     

    22 Degrees for EA71

     

    hate to bring back the dinosaur thread but if this is correct itd be real nice for the offroad FAQ, would eliminate alot of searching/trial and error. just sayin.

  2. EA81 with a 2 in suspension lift eats axles like candy.Ive always heard that the EA82's could take that sort of angle much better,and that a 2" suspension lift on an EA82 was fine.

     

    they cant. my ea82 2inch lift made brand new axles sound like they were like 10 years old and pretty much ruined them the 5-10 miles i drove before dropping the crossmember. if you do a 2 inch suspension or body your axles will squirt grease everywhere and self destruct unless you at least drop the crossmember. its very easy and alot cheaper than new axles.

  3. Hey, I'm making a 4 inch kit and i saw that earlier in the thread you said the strut towers had to be at a 30* angle for an EA82? sounds like alot just wonderin if thats right or if the angle differs in response to the amount of lift? thanks, jack.

  4. Feel free to ask any questions! I'm here to help.

     

    Will do.... how did the xt6 clutch kit fit? did you have to do any grinding or something like that? i have a pushbutton single range right now and im gonna get a dual range, but my clutch is slipping like hell and id rather buy the xt6 kit, swap it in and use it for the time being until i do the ej22/DR swap.

  5. THANX LOYALE90. i live in the county twords ferndale more but i work in bellingham on the guide meridian. i would be interested in seeing your lifted loyale. maybe we could meet up and check out the whips. hit me up if ur intested always willing to check out new builds.

     

    Nice i live right in town by cornwall park, ill send you a pm or somethin when my car is back in action in a few days:burnout:

  6. I am personally a fan of just redrilling the wheels. Drilling more holes into a cast piece is risky to me. Plus you have to drill twice as many holes, and you need to grind down the odd surface on the back side of the hub to get the studs to fit right.

     

    To this day, I've never seen a 4 lug Subaru hub "fail" or lose studs or rip the center of the wheel or anything. 4 studs, espescially that widely spaced are plenty strong.

     

    Fully loaded, with an EJ, my lifted subaru weighs 3300 lbs. Hardly a need for Six wheel studs.

     

    Drilling wheels is easy too. Just knock 2 studs out of an old hub and bolt it up to the six lug you want to redrill. Then drill you're hole through the 2 knocked out stud holes in the hub. This method has yielded very precisely lined up holes. So nice that the wheel stud slips excactly thought he holes with no slop. I don't bevel the redrill holes. I just use "open" lugnuts upside down, so the flat part tightens against the rim, instead of the bevel. The 2 original holes I use the regular lugnuts.

     

    Another nice thing about redrilling wheels is if you f..k up, you can just rotate and redrill between 2 other wheel holes, up to 3 times.

     

    The only reason in my mind to redrill hubs to six lug, would be to run alloy wheels, which can't be easily redrilled.

     

     

    Ever get any vibrations, shaking etc over like 40 mph? I put on some new redrilled 6 lugs that i got for free from a friend:banana:. But when i get past about 35-40 the steering wheel vibrates and there is a weird noise sounds like its comin from the back

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