Prwa101

Yeah I've noticed the same thing... I've never had this kind of problem with the ej22 ej18 ones.... And no I won't be driving it till I get a new one, I foud this one, http://m.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQSubaruQQForesterQQReplacementQQTiming_Belt_TensionerQQ19982011QQREPS313801.html Looks pretty good, 2 day shipping. Hey thanks for your help!

Okay, got it all apart agin, The belt looked tight, marks looked okay but the marks on the belt were off from where I placed them. So maybe it did jump around. And it would make Sence that it got worse. The tenstioner looked good didn't see it bounch when I started it. Thought I'd do the timming agin, started to compress the tenstioner, took my sweet time, and got it in the vice wrong so I have to loosen it agin, and now not in the vice, I can scwoosh it almost with my hands, but really easy if i put it up aginst something. pretty much like it was the first time. Do I need a new tenstionor? Or will it stiff up it I let it sit? What's a good brand that won't do this agin? I'm some what poop right now but will spring for the extra buck for the good stuff, napa stuff? The worst thing about this is that I need the car tomarrow to drive to class.... So really fast replies would be much aprishested!!! Prwa.

Okay, I ran the codes. Po420 Cary Po133 o2 bank one. Slow Po130 o2.*** So they all have something to do with the o2sensor. And they guy I bought it from said his machanic said its normal, but that was then. And it's starting to run crappyer.... If the timing was off would it show up in the codes?

Yeah I had read that same thing about the tenstionor after I changed the TB.... It took me a couple min to compress it, had to do it twice because the vice was all screwy... And seemed Easyer to compress the second time... But! It isn't making any more noice now, so it could be just a tooth or two off now, seeing as its stoped, but still running. The idel thing seemed to show up after driving up to timberline, and around town. I'll check the timming first! Thanks guys!

Okay same exact thing is goin on with my car right now! I did the TB, fired it up to make sure it ran right, really back knocking/ticking then faded away... It's still running strong, no loss of power, (other than the clutch acting weird, and shaking the car running at 2k rpms in any gear) other than it having really low rpms at a stop and it wanting to die. It's doing good. Did you guys figure out what it was? And any advice for me? Thanks!

im going to need a 4" towers, i have 3" blox in my car now that i made, but im willing to do the extra work for the strut towers (like adding and inch to the 3" bottoms to make it a 4" bottem), because i dont have over 40$ to spend, (school bills are killing me) so if that dosn't sound to crazy of me to do, from you experiences?

very true..... well anyone know where i could get one for really cheap? needs to be a 3"

ahhh i just noticed there just the top halfs, no bottoms? and kinda an interesting quistion, but would this work? take a 3" bottom and add an inch to it, to weld it to the 4" top? or will that mess the angles up? Thanks, Sorry bout the double post, my smart phone is being dumb.

Do you still have any of those 4" ea82 strut existentions for 10$? How much would you charge me to bend them, so all that needs to be done By me is weld them up? Thanks, - Prwa

Do you still have any of those 4" ea82 strut existentions for 10$? How much would you charge me to bend them, so all that needs to be done By me is weld them up? Thanks, - Prwa

Okay so i have a couple problems going on with my forester, 1 and 2 both started after timming belt change. 1. After changing the timming belt, a weird knocking noice started for a little while, went away figured it was just the tenstioner tightening up. This stopped. 2. After I did the belt, a couple days of driving it a while, I relized it was idling weird, and then it would drop really low about 600, then 250rpms then would studder and die. Read it may be the iavc? Another thing with the rpms when I'm in like 3rd ill be picking up speed, and about 3.5k it'll just really pick up at go like It was holding back till then, Is it just how its Supose to be? 3. At low rpms, almost costing the clutch/motor will start to shake, like it's going in and out of gear really fast. Any idea? Maybe needs a clutch soon? Or adjustment? The car has about 220k on it, still running, no miss fires, nothin other than these recent problems. Anything would help at this point, I'm prolly going to take it to my buddy here soon so I can run the codes. Thank -Prwa

Ahhh that makes Sence, I'm not one to wheel my cars to hard so I think I'll stick with the cheap way first. Thanks guys!

Well not sure if the picture I got on here actually came up. So... I see people using a steel plate to drop the diff, but is there another way you could do that? Ive got an idea of Where the diff bar wraps around and then conects to the frame, couldnt you just put a block under that on each side? Shown in the photo. Thanks! Prwa. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2611789213016&l=9874a228c1

hey thanks!! i started to confuse my self for a moment.

hey thanks!! i started to confuse my self for a moment.

Mk... So I've come to the conclusion that in order to not change the rear camber, the diff has to be dropped the same 4" as the struts.

Okay got all that figured out, but how much does the lift change the rear camber? I've got 3" on the frame and 4" on the struts. Thanks Prwa

Okay so I see the photo someone drew up for a 2" rear suspension lift. Is it pretty much the same concept angle wize for th 4" brase? Ive studyed sjr's 4" rear lift brase, look like a 45 degree angles, is that right? And it's 4" from top bolt holes, to bottem bolt holes? Thanks.

I still have the doner car a 93 leg, should I steal anything else off of it other than the ej swap stuff before I scrap it? Prwa

That's a very good point, and this is the first I've heard it it. Hmm so could swapping the crossmember on my GL to the legacy fix this? If its possible to do so? And sounds like its kinda a hit and miss thing that happens.

Finnly got some time to start putting the lift in, got all the bolts for the crossmember undone other than one... It's striped... So another hold back, should have it finished once schools over for break...

Yup, that's where I saw it too! Thanks!

in the write up, "Use the EJ motor mounts, and widen the mounting holes in the crossmember slightly, somewhere between 1/4" to 1/2" on either side. A Dremel or similar rotary tool with a grinding stone works great for this. EA82 crossmember accepts the motor mount holes without widening (round EJ mounts) EJ mounts may have a centering nipple that needs to be ground off as there is no receiving hole in the EA crossmember as there is in the EJ crossmember. 3""" and i think mine is an ea82, theres no block to see what it is, but looks like surfing the web that it is a ea82T. Prwa

okay so i picked me up a 88 subaru turbo gl the other day for 260$ (no motor), got my ej22 and harness stripped just waiting on a couple of things for start putting her togeather (money included) haha. pretty much just need the xt6 clutch, addplate and fans pretty stoked to build my monster subi!!! has 180k on it not bad for a little car work for my girlfriends parents impreza. Three and half days of streight harness stripping, not bad for a noob. my 235/75/R15s for the 6 lug swap the ej22 should fit right up with the cross member bolts right? looks the same as my 90 loyale and thous fit right up. it being a turbo dosnt change much does it? i am open to any advice from anyone! thanks! -Prwa

makes seance, well i think ill just pay out for the acdelco one on rockauto for 210$ not to bad. so im in need of an ej22 adapter plate, your a hard guy to get ahold of what times are good to call you? Prwa