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fignuts

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Everything posted by fignuts

  1. If you're going to replace the HG's you might as well pull the motor and do a clutch kit at the same time for insurance. It's an easy car to pull the motor on and a clutch kit is cheap......
  2. Check out this stuff: http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_how_to_stop_rust.htm It is similar to POR-15 but it works better (in my opinion) and is less expensive. I just used their bed liner and they included a quart of the Chassis Saver - it is excellent stuff, easy to use, and looks amazing.
  3. The anti-dieseling valve is energized when the vehicle is turned on - which means that it is pulled open. If the wire is not connected then the valve is closed and will cause the car to idle erratically and die. There should be a bullet connector about 1 foot from the carb or so. You do not need to remove the valve from the carb - just disconnect/reconnect the wire to it... That being said, the fact that you think it is running very rich would indicate something like a stuck float. It's kinda hard to do but check the sight glass - the fuel level should be very close to the middle.
  4. It won't idle? Did you re plug-in the anti-dieseling connection? It's the single wire coming off of the driver's side of the hitachi carburetor. I had a similar experience before I swapped to a weber - the bullet connector for that connection wasn't pushed in all the way.
  5. Thanks! The only pieces I painted were the front turn signal retainers, the door handles, and the windshield moldings. The trim for the bed, front lip on the hood, and window gutters are still off and i'm not sure I want them back on on not... Here's what I was kinda going for:
  6. Here's a couple pics of my '78. I just did the bedliner - I used Monstaliner and I highly recommend it as it really looks like a spray on liner but is rolled on and it's super tough. You can see that I missed the back sides of the bottom of the rollbar....
  7. I remember that I extended the egr connection at the back of the air cleaner because the tire wanted to sit on it. Also, my weber is the DFAV so the linkage is on the opposite (driver's) side.
  8. 185/70/13 - it closes no problem and its on an ea81 style 8 spoke wagon wheel.... I'll try and snap a pic later
  9. 1st gen brat, right? I've got a weber and a full size spare under the hood with of my '78 with no problem... I had to give it a good push because the tire is wider than the stock mini spare but it fits.
  10. I believe that the California non a/c brats did come with both fans. My 78 is from Cali and has belt driven and the electric fan, as well as factory electronic ignition
  11. Here are picks - i'd been eyeing it for awhile: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2439328999.html If you change from the ea71 you will have to swap the trans as well - the bell housings are different. If you go to a 5 speed you will need a custom driveshaft. If you go to a 4 speed d/r you will have to go to an ea81 due to bellhousing/motor mating differences. If you want to swap it the best way is to just ej22 it and be done with it, but then you have to notch the framerails.... Oh, you'll never pass California emission with a weber. So, wait to swap on a weber until after it has passed Cali emissions. Hope this was somewhat helpful and good luck! It looks to be a fun project
  12. Here's a pic of my 78 before I painted it - it was severly faded in some areas: I honestly couldn't wait to get rid of that color - it just felt to Joe Dirtish to me...
  13. I think those look great! Nice job on those. What are your plans for covering the floor? I need to find some sort of floor covering for my brat and I have no ideas. I bedlined the inside but without carpet or sound deadening material it is fairly lound inside...
  14. I'll play... 1978 Brat that I bought a couple months ago EA71 single range 4wd 158000 miles When I got it: After I painted it a couple weeks ago:
  15. Well, made some progress over the last few days This is my first time prepping/painting a car. All things considered it turned out better than I expected but i'd do things different next time. It's far from a show quality job but it's perfect for a daily driver. Still need to Rhinoline the bed and get the bumpers on - it never ends.....
  16. bheinen74 is right. Well, we're both right. I got under my brat and the push bar mounts up to the crossmember - so, i'd recommend finding those bolts!
  17. I'm almost ready to paint it- i've been only doing body work when it's nice out so it's been going kinda slow. But, i've got my WRB paint and supplies as well as a nice shop to paint it in once i'm ready. I'll try and get some pics up soon.
  18. I'm going through a similar process with my 78 brat I recently purchased. The pics with the missing bolts are for where the front bullbar/pushbar mounts - I just pulled mine off last week for paint prep. Nice work, btw - wish I had the ea81 with d/r
  19. Ha, i've only seen these vans in pictures. It's kinda funny to finally see people next to one of these to get the size perspective - that thing is little - I like it! You've got a cherry ride - amazing shape.
  20. Welcome! Do you have a price range?? With a Subaru you can spend as little as $500 for an early to late 80's subaru that'll run and drive and have 4wd if you search. But you can spend up to $30k for a used STi with AWD. So..... What are you looking to spend??
  21. I came across a post where you mentioned you can get gen 1 brat windshield seals - i've got a 78. If you have them, i'd rather buy from a member than from Precision. Let me know if you can get them and how much it'd be shipped to OR,97062. Thanks.

     

    -Tim

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