rain_man_rich

Look at the wiring harness by the battery. Is it all loose and laying down on the battery plate? If so, it can wear through to the wiring and cause some of the problems you are describing.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?customSizeSearch=&width=185%2F&ratio=80&diameter=13

When you floor it in first gear and pull to second does it seem to run good?

Cleeeeeen. Nice purchase.

Dont drive it!

Found it! The wiring harness was shorted out on the chassis. More specifically it was a fuel injector wire after then dropping resistor. That explains a bunch, especially after looking at the wiring diagram. Thanks to all for the tips.

Ivan, great tips man. Thanks. TomRHere, that link is just what the doctor ordered, thanks. grossgary, I will follow your lead, much obliged. The car was fully charged this morning. I must have left something on the day before. I'll keep an eye on it. Started up perfectly, ran perfectly (better than normal). Guess I'll wait and see what tomorrow brings! The daughter is taking the car on a 60 mile round trip later today I told her to call me if anything out of the ordinary occurs Stay tuned...

I got a chance this evening to take a look at the CTS connection. What a pain. When I replaced the CTS, I remember that I had it all apart and it wasn't as hard to get to. Anyways, I managed to get the connection off and it fell half apart during the process. The metal bits looked ok but I shot it with some cleaner and put some grease on the connections and put it back on the best I could. I also worked on the spark plug wires so they made better connections to the distributor cap as they were pretty sloppy, especially the coil wire. The car did not act up at all despite me driving it in the same manner as before. Good news I hope. However, when I got to the car the battery was COMPLETELY dead. I have no idea what that was all about. I charged the battery and will test it again in the morning and start tracking down a short if there is one. Where can I get a connection fitting for my CTS?

Will head over to the car this evening. I'll check the set screw and clean up the CTS connection. Also, did Subaru give us a schrader valve to test fuel pressure? If not, where's the appropriate connection point?

AKghandi, that is very close to the idle I'm experiencing. I did unplug the MAF and it idled much worse to the point of dying. I did check the boots and saw nowhere there was any leaking. I also ran it with the plenum off and was only able to start it once but it would not continue to run after that.

Well, it's no longer in a no-start condition. I went over to the daughter's house this morning and it fired right up and ran normally. I decided to take it for a drive and it started acting up again when it was at operating temperature. Cutting out at low rpm's under light and medium throttles(only sporadically). Also, when I come to a stop it idles down and rough (again only sporadically). I took it back to the garage to see if I could simulate the symptoms and I was able to by shifting from park to reverse and then drive over and over. Once in a while the idle would become unstable again for a few moments then smooth back out in about 20-40 seconds. I've had similar problems to this before with dirty throttle bodies and IAC valves on other cars so I decided to give this a whirl. I seafoamed the upper end through a vacuum line then cleaned the throttle body (which wasn't that dirty because I did it about 10,000 miles ago) and shot some seafoam creep down the IAC holes and hit the MAP with a shot of cleaner. It seemed to have no effect and the problem persists. At least now I can get the symptoms less randomly so maybe I can find the heart(s) of the problem. While I was in there, I also checked the intake, plenum, and turbo boots but all seemed fair. Researching the board I found a similar issue was solved by installing another IAC. HOWEVER, I am perplexed at this solution because I think I have an IAC that despite my internet searches, I can't find. Here is what I believe is my IAC on my car: And; Here is what I find on the internet from at least 5 sources (including RockAuto): http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-94-SUBARU-IAC-IDLE-AIR-CONTROL-VALVE-AESP207-6-/150996505041 I can't seem to find this part on my throttle body anywhere.... After 30 minutes I gave up trying to find my IAC. Notes: I did not check the resistance of the injectors because the car was running fine at one point. I don't believe the fault lies in them. The resistor for the fuel injectors was warm, not hot, today. I think it only gets like that after cranking and cranking which I did not have to do today. QUESTIONS: Anyone know why I can't find a replacement IAC? Do you suppose a faulty IAC could have anything to do with the "cutting out" I'm experiencing under light and medium throttle? It seems to me that the IAC would have little to with this. Yes I know its unmetered air flow but it can't be that much can it? How much evidence is available that I have MAF issues? Intermittant MAF issues? As always, thanks to the members of this board who find the time and are willing to part with their opinions

Sizzling as in sizzled the side of my hand about a week ago. Not smoking hot though. I'll check the injector resistance and the resistor continuity tomorrow. In addition, I'll pull the intake boots and check the repairs I did to them about a year ago along with the MAF disconnect.

Hot and cold starts are both affected but seems mostly hot. CTS was changed about 4000 miles ago but yah it still could be that. What are the spec limits for fuel pressure? Checked compression numbers 110,110,110,95.

Im going to try my best to give background on my 1990 Loyale MFPI Turbo. Maybe someone can help me out. The symptoms are intermittent no-start conditions and chugging or no power. This has been going on for about a year. This morning my daughter called me and said she was stuck in an intersection and the car would not start. She also said that the car was intermittently chugging prior to stalling at the intersection. I got her towed back to her house and once again attempted to diagnose the problem. The car started when i cranked and pumped the pedal for a while. It didn't run very well and gas vapors poured out the exhaust for a while as I gave it a good run. It ran but it was slightly rough and did indeed chug a bit when driven hard. I drove it back to her garage and turned it off. Then after about 10 minutes I tried to start it again but it was no-go. I tested the spark and it appeared to be strong. The last time it did this I changed the distributor cap and it seemed to work fine. This was a month ago. I replaced the almost new distributor cap with a new one but the car is still in a no-start condition. Suspecting fuel might be a problem, I removed a fuel line on the downstream side of the fuel filter and when the key was turned on, the fuel had a nice heavy stream. I have not went any further with the fuel diagnosis. I've replaced the fuel filter, distributor cap, wires, and plugs. I need some suggestions to go from here. Any would be appreciated. P.S. What is this? What does it do? And why is it sizzling hot when I try to start the car? Uploaded with ImageShack.com

Great! That's the one I've had my eye on for a while. I think I'll give it a go.

Which kit did you use?

Miles. I was thinking about the drift. The spacer is between the two bearings and limits access to drive the bearing out. Is the trick to drive one bearing into the spacer which then will act on the second bearing and drive it out? Kind of like driving the entire assembly out all at once?

Knuckle, yes. That's what I meant. Thanks for the catch. Big brass drift, check. Frozen bearing, check. I've used frozen bearings on motorcycles more times than I can count. Makes sense to use that technique here.

I got around to replacing the driver's side cv axle today. I was surprised how easy the axle came through the two wheel bearings. Upon inspection I found evidence of of water in the bearings and the grease was all rusty colored. I did my best to wipe it all out and "repack" the bearings as best as I could while they were in the knuckle. It's a short term fix at best and I'll be doing the wheel bearings and seals as soon as I get some. When i put the new axle in I was able to merely pull the axle back into place by hand so I know it's all messed up. I did some searching on the site to find out how in the world I'm going to remove the bearings from the knuckle. They are the same size so I'm at a loss as to how to remove one of them to get to the other. Any tips, techniques, or pictorial threads would be greatly appreciated. As most of you probably already know, the Clymer's repair manual says a special tool is needed so take it to the dealer for replacement. I'd like to avoid that especially after the phone call today where the dealer didn't know what an EA82 or a cone washer was. Also, my car is turbo with a 4EAT. I'm assuming that the wheel bearings are the same for all EA82's. Is this correct or not? Thanks in advance for the replies. This board is the BEST. NOTE: Edited to replace "spindle" with "knuckle"

I always thought it meant it was a ea82t. Interesting...

Thanks for all the replies. This board really helps a lot of people

Can the spline count be had by merely popping the roll pin and sliding the DOJ back far enough to count? Or is there more to it?

Thanks for the follow up

So this is what I got yesterday from three local parts stores, Autozone, Napa, and Oreilys: Autozone: 23 spline, reman and new Napa: 23 spline only, no 25 in database Orielys: reman 23 or new 25 Talk about a mess, at Orielys I had them both on the table and showed the salesman that one had 23 and the other had 25. He just stood there and looked stupid. Rock Auto sent me one with 23 for turbo and automatic trans. I'm following Mark Humble's advice tomorrow.

....buries head in hands....