rain_man_rich

Man that thing must be running like hell. Right? If not I'd say you're leaking gas.

Does it get significant gas past the filter?

hatchsub, yah I think you're right. I was unable to find where the common ground wires for the left side came together to separate them.

odie No, I'm trying to ground each speaker to the deck unit which has a ground for each speaker. Subies, at least these model years, used common grounds on the left and right sides and then grounded that into the factory deck. I"m trying to find these common ground connection points to utilize as much stock wiring as I can because from what I see it would be a real pain to route new wires to the doors.

Found the right side and found what I expected. The left however was not. It just had the one blue and one white coming into the pink connector and the one blue/red and one yellow going out. There should have been two blue/reds going out (like the other side except those were blue/blacks). I'm done for the night.

Ok I'm going in!

Sweet! Thanks Uncle Ed! Below is a bit of humor just for you..

Got a new deck for the daughter's Loyale. Below is the wiring diagram for the stock setup. Where in the car are the two circled common ground locations? http://imageshack.com/a/img819/2513/1vl4.jpg

That's some seriously good riding right there.

Sweet, I'll give it a whirl when I get a chance. Hopefully it's just gummed up pieces..

The hatch has been troublesome from the get go on this car. The handle or mechanism has been progressively getting worse the last couple of years. It has finally gotten to the point where it wont open. Before I try to figure out how to fix it, are there any tips on how I may get it open to work on it? Can I access the opening mechanism from inside the car?

The better question is it manual or auto? If turbo auto you will get about the same drive-ability performance as a non-turbo manual. My experience is that I do have a turbo but also the 4sp auto. Even though I like the 4sp transmission, even with the turbo it's still a bit of a dog unless I have my foot into it. It does come in handy up the mountains though. Now, when it comes to working on the beast, it seems that turbo and associated piping is in the way of 80 percent of what I want to work on. I have 200K on mine and it runs and drives very well. However, I don't flog the living crap out of it either.

the hose is the only way to go and yes they are hard to get to even getting the boots on is difficult.

Oh and I forgot, a cracked distributor cap will sometimes show symptoms similar to yours.

Mine did the same thing. It turned out that the injectors were flooding the engine. This can be caused by most of the issues already mentioned here like the Coolant Temperature Sensor circuit. Mine however was completely random but worth you checking out. Near the battery tray the wiring harness comes through the fender. Where it comes out and lays on the bottom near the tray it may rub through the wiring insulation and short out some of the fuel injection wiring.

Now I think something is wrong with mine as it's been heating up just fine during our "cold" snap.

If it's the front, here's an option: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142870-1-new-xt6-front-axle-35/

Good find! Your skills rock man. Can't wait to watch this one along.

Dont forget there is still fluid in the torque converter. Be careful not to overfill the transmission.

Simple thing first. Fluid level? Mine had similiar problems once and it turned out the fluid level was low.

I was looking back through my old posts and found this one. Like so many others I've come across, it did not contain the final solution so I thought I would go ahead and post it. So after about a year and a half of trying this and that I finally found the origin of my woes. In the end it turned out to be fuel, NOT WATER, that would make the white smoke. About 6 months ago I was battling an inconsistent idle and dying problem and found that the wiring harness for the fuel injectors was shorting out on the chassis by the battery case. It was always strange to me that the wiring harness was just laying about down on the battery tray and when I picked it up I saw the bare wires. I kind of just picked them up and zip tied them to an air conditioning line to keep them off the battery tray and black-taped the wires where they had rubbed through. I can't believe that Subaru would route wires like that so I;m thinking someone who owned the car before me did some alteration. If possible, I'd like to see where the factory routing goes. A pic would be great! Anyways, the story has a happy ending in that it's been 6 months since anything has went wrong so we are doing good here. P.S. I found the coolant leak as being one which involved the turbo cooling line.

Know what would be cool? If you put the prices you paid by each one so we'd have an idea of the cost.

Thanks for making the list

To supplement battery cables for diagnostics, use jumper cables.

If you don't mind me asking, what did you do to make it shift better?