jarl

Just out of curiosity: how much fuel was really spilled, according to the gas gauge (i.e. the gauge went all the way up and after a few miles indicated just half a tank)? Are you sure the fuel made it to the tank in the first place ? If the leak is somewhere low in the tank you can probably patch it, but to know which other cars have a similar tank you can look for the part number currently in your car (subarupartsforyou will help). They say there was a change in '97, so you may want to call them with your VIN to see which one is the right for your car.

LOL Now... if your car indeed died, and you were driving it when it happened, was there any weird noise? I would be surprised if you didn't hear anything...

The "FWD thing" in this case means to put a fuse in the fuse holder marked "FWD" by the passenger strut tower. It will give you an answer in 30 seconds. Now... I can't help you with your issues except for one thing: DON'T use the regular Simple Green on your engine. It does corrode aluminum really bad (ask me how I learned this ), which is a shame because it cleans really well. There's an automotive version of the Simple Green that is supposed to be Ok with aluminum, though. One other thing: I don't know you, but I wouldn't get under a car held by ramps on a soft surface. Personally, I would rather not make it to the Darwin awards.

I would stop playing with the harness before making a mess out of it. There's a good chance someone messed out it already, but just in case... (ask me how I know ) Have you (or your mechanic) connected an OBD reader to the car, to see what the ECU *thinks* is going on? Now... If you swapped the whole engine -including ENGINE harness-, you'll need the wire colors from the donor car schematics -they may have changed-. Do you know which car did the engine come from? As for the tape color... I've never checked a Subaru harness under the dash, but I think the two different colors may be OEM. The splicing looks suspicious, but still some of it may be OEM (i.e. there's a red/black cable splice at the ECU according to the wiring diagram). Without knowing where where those cables it would be hard to know. Were all those splices you mention right at the ECU? Can you take a picture, or somehow identify the connector/pin number? (attached is the pin numbering for the B84 connector, which I think is the one going to the ECU in your car). I don't know how accurate is the Haynes for the Subarus, but I have seen big discrepancies on the wiring for some other cars. You should try to get the FSM for your car and for the car where the engine came from. EDIT: I just saw your previous post with the OBDII videos, but I can't see much. Is any of the sensors obviously way off? Also, which color is the connector at the ECU?

Did you use the correct marks for the timing? It's common for people to use the arrows on the pulleys instead of the lines...

An ultrasonic repellent, or maybe something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Away-Concentrate-2-oz/dp/B000BBSO10/ref=sr_1_8?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1314830831&sr=1-8

Let me guess... ebay timing kit from Mizumo Auto? There was a thread mentioning this issue, and I confirmed with a micrometer, that the sleeve is a few tenths of a millimeter shorter than it should. I used the old bolt and sleeve, but I had to use fine sandpaper to enlarge the hole on the tensioner pulley a little bit... it would have been a light interference fit otherwise...

Yep... I'm new at USMB and I'm also amazed of how helpful and kind people are around here Definitely do NOT try running the car. The main reason I met this group was because I had to replace my OBW engine. It spun a rod bearing, and the engine was run like that for too long (not sure how long... I bought the car after the damage was done). Apparently the oil filter got clogged with all the crap flowing through it and the bypass opened, allowing shiny little pieces of brass to flow freely around the engine... I still wonder if an oil change, along with a *really* good filter could have prevented this...

If the problem is indeed a rod knock, and you have not run the car too much on the knocking engine, I don't see why you would need to machine the heads. In any case, a used engine installed by an independent shop should be about half of the quote you got. There's a Subaru engine rebuilder in northern Michigan (hopefully lower shipping rates) that offers engines with the same warranty you are being offered by the dealer, for $1750 or so (ssisubaruspecialists.com - have never dealt with them, though).

while repairing this thing is an alternative (albeit a far fledged one), I'm more inclined to replace it with one that is not that bad... Given the fact I have already paid for a replacement engine, new timing kit and a bunch of other parts, I would rather not spend $200 in this tube (if it's crossing your mind, yes, I'm uhmmm... "frugal") The question is which car(s) included the same tube... Looking at the part number (thank you Mike!) it appears like it was used in several cars from '96 on, but several web search suggest otherwise. Has anyone over here have found a similar tube in her/his car?

Thank you people The pictures don't do this thin any justice... It's actually worse I am positive I won't be able to use the screws I have seen the $189 filler tubes on ebay, but there are some salvage items going for prices starting in the ~$40... but I have no idea -yet- of what fits and what doesn't. It's hard to believe they made that many changes to a 2ft piece of pipe... Edit: forgot to mention... there are some pipes that run along the filler neck that I don't see on some of the pictures on ebay and elsewhere. If those need to be bought as well the final price will be a large percentage of what I paid for the car...

As you can tell from the picture, I need to replace the gas filler neck on my '99 OBW. There are several on ebay and elsewhere, but the ones that say they fit the '99 OBW are the most expensive... of course So... does anybody around here know which models/model years can be exchanged? My car has the valve (what is it for???) on it, but I have no idea if it's the "large vent" style. Hints?

And she runs! Now... for some reasons I'm starting to think the right "name"for this OBW is "rusty" I tried to put some gas to let it idle for a while and lo and behold the gas drips straight to the floor. The filler neck is rusted through Oh well... time for a break...

Slight, but relevant, necroposting: http://nerdsontheinternet.com/subaru-legacy-rebuild-power-steering-pump/

What he (^^^^) says You'll need also the power steering bracket, the A/C bracket and, since you already have them, the power steering lines (the ones from the 2.5 will not be supported on the EJ22). I would transfer the canister as well (the 2.2 manifold will have the pipes already) Thank you lmdew for the "plug the extra vacuum line"

Just to be clear: evaporust will help you cleaning the nuts after you remove them. It may actually ease the nut removal a bit, but the torch and a breaker bar (and good vise grips) are the main ingredients

I'm almost done with my EJ22 swap, but I have not tackled yet the difference in vacuum routing between the EJ25 and the EJ22... mostly because it's almost impossible to find the vacuum diagram of the EJ22 If there is a good thread about the vacuum routing of the EJ22s (or vacuum mods when swapping an engine) I would greatly appreciate a pointer to it. Otherwise, could some of you take a picture of the sticker under the hood of your cars and post it along with the engine type? There shouldn't be that much variation, but it would help anyway...

Trust me... it has been nuts around here too Somehow I don't feel like ordering those nuts from overseas... or at least not yet In particular because I need to finish this car NOW Yesterday I went junkyard hunting, looking for an ignition coil for the EJ22. While there I decided to try and get more SS nuts out of a couple of subies I found, and got home with four nuts and four nuts+studs. A liberal amount of a propane torch on these provided four more nuts for my collection. However, of the eight, maybe 2 were smooth The other looked like they had shrunk I don't have a tap and further attempts to clean the thread faileds, so I decided to leave the nuts in a jar with evaporust... and voila! Now I have exactly 6 working SS nuts, ready to be used. It looks like some metal from the studs embeds itself into the nuts, and the evaporust is just strong enough to remove it.

Yep... that's the one. It was $2.20 at 1stsubaruparts, and $3 at subarupartsforyou. But shipping on either one is more than $10, so unless you are buying something else it may not make sense.

What I meant was it would be difficult to use a torque wrench through the small port on the bellhousing if the intake manifold is in place. When I removed the EJ25 I used two extensions to go underneath the intake manifold and it was extremely easy, but I think I had loosened the manifold before that. On the ATF lines: what I found the hard way on the Citroen was that changing the routing of anything related to the hydraulic system would bite you in the lower back eventually. Vibration or friction would eventually make you regret changing anything But of course those lines ran at very high pressure, which is not the case here. Do you replace the entire lines (from the transmission to the cooler) with hoses, or just the rubber hoses between the metal pipes and the transmission/cooler? If you replace the whole thing, how do you support the hoses?

I bought mine at 1stsubaruparts, and I think it was $2 or so. I was ordering many more parts, so even with the shipping price it made sense. With the markup at local dealers, prices go up too quickly for my taste... $6 for an o'ring is just ridiculous. JR EDIT: I think I know where the larger o'ring goes: it looks like the one between the block and the built-in tube in the oil pan. It's not actually an o'ring, but some sort of rubber seal. I'm not talking about the pickup tube (which is bolted to the block and uses an o'ring), but what I presume is a drain at the back of the pan. Edit 2: Forget 1stsubaruparts... you are very close to subarupartsforyou I wonder if you can order through their website and pick up the stuff in person.

Having something to use as a size reference would help... But if my experience helps, the oil pump o'ring should be blue. The two smaller ones look a lot like the ones I ordered for the oil dipstick tube.

You are 100% correct. Both brackets have been transferred already. I'm starting to reconsider: should I put the intake manifold before installing the engine? I would expect torquing the flex plate bolts to be a pain in the lower back is I do. Am I correct?

egr?

You mean you can't keep track of 754 projects at the same time? I'll get a new PCV valve (is aftermarket Ok?), and I'm going to check the small filter you mention. I'm not sure about replacing the ATF lines, though... I used to drive a Citroen, and I learned not to get too creative with some stuff I'll check to see if the lines are leaking... The EJ22 is from '95, so it has the small hydraulic lifters. I was considering bleeding each one, but I understand I can let the engine run from some time until the HLAs get filled without hurting anything. Is that correct? Regarding the fuel lines: the morons at the junkyard didn't plug the hoses they cut, and I don't know for how long those things were open. If I remove the injectors can I use a blow gun on the lines without damaging anything? Another thing I discovered last night: the idle air control valve looks rusted inside. I'm going to swap it with the one from the EJ25. In general the stuff from the 2.5 are in better condition (were working not long ago) than the stuff from the 2.2... is there anything else I should be swapping at this point?