jarl

Thank you people The few times I have asked the chain stores if they would accept used oil the answer has been "we used to but not anymore", for whatever reason. So now I take them to the county's collection facility. You can take as much motor oil as you want, but they will charge you for the ATF if you go past a certain point. And they explicitly ask you not to mix oil with ATF. Oh well... I'll try again Now... I was convinced about this until I read Mark's post. Anyone else has had a bad experience doing this? If the cooling loop is at the pump's discharge, and the fluid level is being topped while the engine is running, the pump should not run dry at any point, right? Am I missing something? If I decide to go this way, which is the return line? I know I can experiment, but delving into the common knowledge is not that messy

I need to replace the transmission fluid with a good synthetic, but the idea of throwing to the garbage (cross that...actually PAYING to get rid of) a couple gallons of it is not particularly amusing. And yes, I have read several threads about the 3 x drain & fill So... Any compelling reasons not to do this ? Some questions regarding it: - If we disconnect the return hose from the cooler it wouldn't be necessary to blow air into the lines, right? - Where in the circuit is the transmission filter? It would be nice to avoid running the old fluid through a new filter, but I don't think it's possible... is it?

Glad to hear everyone is Ok. Save the elk

If you were not using the car that much before, take the money and say thanks to the elk. Or buy it back and part it out, although to get all your money back you'll need some patience. Now... tell us how that furry souvenir got to the top of the windshield

Each forum has it's own strengths. The technical section here is great...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749402

Can you hear a "click" when pressing the button on the shifter? Just in case: try not to force things until you figure out what's going on. You don't want to break anything... yet

Yup... I think you need to clarify how you made the measurement. If the ground is bad, you should be able to measure the full battery voltage (13.7V?) from the positive side of the lamp to the negative terminal of the battery, BUT you'll get a measurement larger than 0 V between the negative terminal of the lamp and the negative terminal of the battery.

Sound like something for House M.D. The other cables in the area -as far as I can tell- are the ones for the seatbelt, a couple of switches and some lights, but now that you mention it, it would have been impossible for the OP to see any of those. And all of those are protected by fuses. The brake line theory sounds very convoluted, but makes sense

Hummm... really? OP, can you confirm? Because it would be one *really* weird incident in that case.

Man... it would suck if you bent the valves you just repaired... There are lots of threads (maybe too many!) here that have all the information you may need to do the timing belt correctly. Or you can check the endwrench articles, which are excellent. Look under the "engine" section here: http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/pdf.html Best luck!

Yup... I know the general area. The question I have is whether that's the only cable in the area or not, and where does it go. If the voltage was applied between both ends of the cable (i.e. the cable goes to ground and the +12 were applied to the distal end of the cable) then there's a good chance the whole length of cable -and the harness along it- is fried. The only safe option in that case would be to replace the harness

Regarding the "PIAA 10903": http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/good/good.html I've have my OBW for just a few months, and the car has 13 years of wear on it. The lights are not particularly bright, but I'm wondering if it's because the design is mediocre, or because something is worn. If the lights were fine at some point, and now they are not bright enough, I would start by making sure the headlights are grounded correctly, that all the contacts are clean, the headlights are clean (the headlight cleaning kits are wonderful), and ONLY then would I worry about changing the bulbs. And I would (will) stay away from the blue bulbs, btw. Finally, PLEASE, pretty PLEASE: if your car didn't have HID bulbs originally, please refrain from using kits with it. Simply put the only way of not blinding oncoming traffic with them is turning them off. If your car have HID lights, please make sure they are aimed correctly.

I had never seen the SVX chase. It makes a good Subaru commercial http://www.streetfire.net/video/the-entire-televised-police-chase-from-seattle-fro_20825.htm It doesn't show the end, though...

Before performing surgery, it would be nice if you could show us a picture of what/where it was glowing... just sayin'

You may be right. I thought they developed the forester and the new impreza concurrently, but I may be wrong.

55 watts vs 51 watts means a negligible increase in current (Amps) through the wiring, so it should be safe. The real question is why would you do that... When it comes to lighting, most of the stuff you find on ebay and online stores (and brick and mortar stores, for that matter) is just crap, usually intended to mislead people. They get away with it mostly because there isn't much regulation this side of the pond (i.e. the "blue light bulbs", the HID conversion kits, etc). In any case: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/light_color/light_color.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/daniel-stern-lighting-and-subaru-headlight-options-45991.html Edit: CAN-OF-WORMS warning: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?260292-How-many-of-you-actually-NEED-your-fog-lights

There may be a problem right off the bat, as the Impreza is from a previous generation. I don't know how many of the parts were carried over, though... The link you are using for opposedforces is correct. I recall reading not long ago about some people having issues accessing the page, though. I don't know if they found a solution...

I had to double check to make sure I was reading correctly... Falkland Islands!!! Oh my... (Sorry for being amazed... I thought even internet had to be sent by ship from the UK ) In any case: as John says, the manufacturing dates make all the difference. By any chance do you have the dates for both cars? It can be found on a metal plate under the bonnet, on top of the left strut (I think) Once you have that information you can probably check opposedforces to see which parts are common to both cars.

I tend to disagree with your appreciation Maybe I should not have mentioned specifically "rhino liner". The carpet substrate is a rubber mat. I would say "shave the carpet until you get it down to the rubber", but i'm not sure you can do that. The alternative would be to apply a rubber spray to the carpet an work it into the fibers of the carpet, and maybe do the same to the sound deadening material underneath it. Will it be a mess? Most probably yes. But, hey, it would look "industrial"

Why not just spray the rhino liner directly onto the carpet?

I replied to a craigslist ad a tad too quickly, and as a result I have what I think is a 2004 Legacy cargo cover that won't fit my '99 I want to list it for trade, but I can't find any part number to confirm what the heck I picked up. Is there an easy way to identify them? Alternatively, can someone confirm the distance between the mounting pegs on the fixed/moving parts of your '04 cargo cover? Thanks!

I would try to see if the ECU is alive before putting much money into it. Car electronics are not that likely to have diodes protecting the electronics from a battery connected backwards. I have checked similar threads -several involving GLs... I wonder why?- and most mention a damaged fusible link and main fuse. A couple had a fried ECU.

Or just sell it. I'll give you $350 for it. Oh wait... you are kind of far...

Do I take it as confirmation that the Wathertech carpets from the Legacy fit the OBW as well? It's kind of weird WT don't list anything for the OBW...