jarl

I would avoid the clear coat... specially since you can buy the sealer by itself if you want. Also, with the kits' prices starting at $6 there's little reason not to use them

You mean the engine code (EZ30)? There are quite a few hits if you look for it...

Ok... after playing the detective, it looks like the OP's '97 Legacy is a Wagon. Back to your drawing tables, gentlemen One thing I saw while looking for this is that the OP had replaced the Forester bearings. Did he (you!) use the (original) ball bearings, or the (recommended) tapered bearings? Have you replaced suspension bushings? Something else comes to mind: the geometry of the suspension may be slightly different. Old Citroens had to have a subchassis attached with very soft rubber mounts because of the steep angle of the suspension travel... which in turn was very steep to compensate for the amazingly soft suspensions. PD: now that you mention increasing the sound deadening material... what is normally used? I need to replace the carpet on my OBW and would like to increase the sound insulation if possible while at it.

Sounds like a good plan. As far as I know tires can get out of round if the car sits for too long without being moved, but I understand it will go away after some miles of driving. Other than that... In my case my car has a rumbling noise coming from the back of the car, but it doesn't seem to change when turning left or right. The brakes are also dragging a little bit and the shields are badly rusted, so I'm hoping a brake job will fix the noise. Otherwise I'll be in for new bearings as well

There was a thread not long ago that mentioned an electronic "chassis ear". It could prove very useful in isolating the noise. I don't know if you can rent one at Autozone or O'Reillys, though...

If there's damage to the seat of the lugnuts, or to the studs themselves, it's possible the 75 pound are not being applied to the right surfaces

Oh... that parts is a steal for sure

Sticking from the intake manifold next to the throttle body, on the passenger side. There's an angled rubber hose connecting to it. You can follow the hoses from the valve covers and you'll find it.

The FSM for the '95 and the '99 show green at the center and black on the outside. Maybe the connector you saw is the one for the ashtray lighting?

According to subarupartsforyou you should have the "simple" filler tube (the one without the valve): http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Fuel+Pipe&year=1997 ...but they recommend emailing them with your VIN to make sure you get the right one. Try that or simply remove the plastic cover, check which version you have (and the condition) and go from there.

Remove the plastic cover and take a look at the filler neck. If it looks anywhere like my car's, it's time to get a new one. On your '97 you most probably have the filler neck without a valve. That would bring the price of the pipe to the ~$100 range if you go for a dealer item (the valve is some $65 more). If you check car-part.com you may be able to find the pipe for $30-$40 or so. The main problem is finding one in decent condition because they rust a lot. I replaced the pipe on my '99 OBW without too much of an issue, but I understand normal Legacys are much harder because the space is tighter. Some people here recommend running the car without the plastic cover to prevent dirt from accumulating behind it but I was afraid a rock could damage the pipe -or the smaller tubes next to it- so I applied some underbody protector paint to it and replaced the cover. Lmdew (look for him) had offered me two pipes from Colorado at a very decent price, but unfortunately they were not the right part for my car... but I think they should fit your car perfectly.

http://customwheelsmarket.com/rimwheelwidth1.html I think the OEM alloys are 5.6 inches wide (can someone check this?) If that's the case you *should* be able to run 175s

Hmmm... put a boombox playing Barney's -the purple dinosaur- songs inside the car? Maybe rent a snake? I think chemicals -not toxins- are your better option. You should give it a try and report back

Sorry to single out the EJ25D. The relevant paragraph on one of Endwrench's articles reads: "Subaru of America began using hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) in the mid-eighties on vehicles with 1.8L engines and eventually the system spread to all engines. The use of HLAs ended with the 1996 2.2L and 2.5L engines. Since then, mostly bucket-style lifters have been used."

I'm not sure about the etiquette (or lack of it) of posting a link to another forum, but this should help you: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749402 The opening for the factory stereo is usually "double DIN". When using smaller headunits they usually add a pocket below it. The opening should be the same, though.

As long as you have the title you should be able to get the keys made from the VIN number. I was told it was around $11 to get one made. Your second question is hard to answer. If the problem got fixed by unplugging a module and plugging it another one, it sounds like the connector pins may have been corroded. Gurus?

TurboGuzzi: quattordici anni di scuola Italiana, purtroppo non all'Italia. Mi occorre parlarlo, peró, perche lo stó dimenticando. Adesso che la FIAT ha acquistato un pezzo della Chrysler aspetto che parlare Italiano serva a qualcosa I'm not quite sure which engines were available on your side of the pond, but I think this side's later EJ25D (97~99, normally aspirated) had the valve lash adjusted with shims. Earlier engines had large HLAs, and moved to smaller HLAs later on (according to an Endwrench article the HLAs began around mid '80s).

I repeat my post about "Mouse away concentrate". It looks like a strong smell can help getting rid -at least temporally- of those critters.

http://www.indypicapart.com/pricing.html Engine, 4 cylinder $154.99, $60 core. It probably won't include any warranty, but if you know what to look for (I don't ) you can probably get away with it...

...magari la mia giardinetta fosse come la tua ma questa non é un "keeper". Non ancora

Any particular reason for wanting the new tensioner? The timing kit is somewhat more expensive than the older style, and as far as I know it's not a huge improvement

Turtle Wax kit. $6 something at Menards, and the results are impressive. What this kit has - that some others don't - is a wipe with a sealer... it does make a difference

I guess this is the thread you mean: http://www.scoobymods.com/adjust-brake-pedal-free-play-t7436.html Excellent!

Can you point us to the "other" thread?

Update time... I have not been able to do anything to my car lately, except driving it In any case, I have filled the tank completely twice already (well... the car isn't taking a full tank without the pumps stopping several times, so I'm not 100% sure what the actual fuel level was). First fuel economy report is 28.7 MPG driving mostly highway. Nice