jarl

LOL... (Thank you Yeti) Much to my regret, yes... the flooring came from IKEA. The previous owner of the house decided to "stage it" using the cheapest flooring he could find, and we didn't realize it until it was too late. So... everybody agrees this looks like it comes from a Gen III Legacy, except Karak seems to confirm this is too narrow for his car (as it was for my '99 OBW). -sigh - Do you guys know if the cover for the Forester has the same kind of clips?

Rockauto, perhaps?

$40 I can do... Unfortunately it looks like Subaru doesn't make them anymore for the '99 I'd love to hear about alternatives...

That's what I think it is, but it's actually narrower than the space on my '99. I find it hard to believe the space between the suspension towers actually shrunk between generations, so I was convincing myself this had to be from a Forester or something like that. Anyone else can offer confirmation? I just don't want someone complaining because I sent the wrong thing

Uhm... one at a time please... I took some pictures to list this thing... can any of you identify which car did it come from?

Not really "tech question", but I couldn't find a better category... Winter is here and I still have to find a decent set of mats for my '99 OBW. I'm looking ideally for rubber mats with deep grooves, something that can hold a good amount of snow, but nothing seems to fit correctly without cutting into the grooves holding the snow, which would defeat the entire purpose of the mats in the first place. I know about the WeatherTech but I can't really justify putting $100+ mats on this car.

Of course the problem can be somewhere else, but since the axle you put in fits into the "aftermarket" category, it sound's like it's the first thing you should check

Since all the oil should circulate through the cooling system (i.e. not stay "pooled" anywhere) I would expect the mixing to be very small. I would certainly expect less old ATF than what you get after the 2nd or 3rd drain and fill (*) The circulation of ATF inside the transmission is not a single circuit so it's probably not easy to get a % of mixing using this procedure. However, the torque converter should be by far the largest volume of ATF inside the tranny (except for the pan), but because its one of the hottest parts I think it's safe to assume there isn't much stagnant ATF there. (*): I have seen some interesting posts about this, with different values. If with each drain you remove about 50% of the existing fluid, then by the 2nd drain you will have 25% old ATF, 3rd=12.5%, 4th=6.25%, etc.

You, my friend, may be into something I'll check the O2 sensor cable tomorrow (to be honest I had decided I wouldn't even touch it until all the other stuff was working fine). Maybe I can kill two birds with the same stone... (I had thought about the O2 sensor before, but I never stopped to think the O2 sensor damage could actually be OUTSIDE the sensor) The other code from the ECU is from the emissions system (P0440). This is a known issue, though, as I didn't order the shut-off valve when I replaced the rusted-through (throughout?) filler tube. I should be getting it by mail soon, though...

I knew I had seen this before: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60505 http://www.etischer.com/914xt6.html

Just found this at "the other" site... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2275426

Yep... that's my next step. I just need to make sure I won't need the car soon after I drove the car today (dry) for a while and it seemed to run fine. We'll see how it goes.

... If you don't have them already

Are you 100% sure the leak is from the water pump? How many miles on the odometer?

Are you Scottish? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FFRoYhTJQQ

Uhm... cross the "cross that". The car doesn't pull any code for "you are being dumb" Apparently when I checked the air filter -to make sure it was dry- I accidentally disconnected the *large* hose that goes from below the MAF to the IAC. No surprise it wasn't idling So... back to square one. I guess I'll have to drive the car again to confirm it's still acting up. I applied some CRC wire dryer to the spark plug wires and inside the boots (although there was no water in the spark plug holes) and in theory it should protect a little bit. We'll see... A few things I discovered today: - Dielectric grease had degraded on the spark plug boots, after just a couple of months - There seems to be some blowback into the air filter. It smelled like exhaust gases and looks much older than it is - Forgetting to connect the TPS makes the "AT temperature" light blink:confused: - '99 Outbacks didn't come standard with an OEM skid plate. What were they thinking???

Well... cross that. Now the car won't idle, and it's running like crap. There are new codes (the CEL is on because of a "O2 sensor open circuit" and a leak on the emission's valve on the filler tube), and I checked the codes related to the throttle, MAF and a couple others, and I can't see any humidity in there. I tried to pay attention to see if there was sparking going on at the high voltage cables, but there doesn't seem to be any. So... hints, anyone?

This car is as far from "sporty" as there might be... I don't think you can use "fast" and "ej22 swap" on the same sentence ...which is fine with me. The only reason I got this car was to make sure we made it through the winter safely. But if the car dies whenever I hit a puddle that's not going to happen Anyway... As far as I can tell the intake is 100% OEM, and the air filter is dry. So... the question is: which electrical sensor/connectors will be most likely to get wet and produce driveability problems?

Sorry for being vague in the description, but the problem itself is vague as well My soobie is a '99 OBW with a '96 EJ22. It looks like whenever I drive over water pooled by the road fast enough to create some splash, *something* gets wet under the hood, and the car starts malfunctioning. It doesn't run too rough, but it behaves as if I had released the gas pedal or something like that. The few times it has happened before the problem has corrected itself after several miles, but this morning I barely made it to my destination by going faster than usual and keeping the engine above 2500 RPM or so. I checked the ignition and it doesn't look wet at all. Actually I didn't see anything obviously wet under the hood, but then I didn't really know what I was looking for In the good old days the answer was very easy: just dry the distributor and you were good to go. But with these cars, where should I look first? PD: If these cars are supposed to have some sort of OEM skidplate underneath the front of the car, my OBW is missing it. In any case an Outback that can't run over half an inch of water isn't any good

Sweet! I look forward for the day I can do something similar

Do you really want to test that last statement? Replacing the water pump is not particularly expensive, specially when compared to buying an engine. Just saying...

It looks like the planets are aligning after all My OBW do have the delayed engagement issue, and I'm hopeful the Trans-X additive mentioned in another thread can fix things somewhat after getting rid of the nasty stuff that used to be ATF in the transmission. I'm just looking at alternatives to get the best outcome possible wasting the smallest amount of money. Tall order -specially if looking for synthetics-, right?

Oops... I'm so used to have signature with the relevant information I forget to put it here My car is a ''99 OBW, and it has the spin-on filter. From your post -which makes perfect sense, btw- I can see one way doing this may mess up the whole show: I think I read somewhere the filter doesn't have a bypass valve. If this is true, and there's too much crap in the oil the filter *could* get clogged, at least in theory... I wonder if it would make sense to put a cheaper filter while doing the change, and replace it with the $30 thing afterwards... Anyway... I think the case is made for trying this. Now let's search for the best fluid I can afford... which isn't that much to begin with

That's what I have in mind, but Mark's post worried me somewhat. And now reading a bit more I find this: "Subarus do not like full flushes. It causes too many problems than it solves, mainly disturbing crud in the torque converter, which then gets dislodged into the main guts of your trans. those debris particles are better off staying in the TC"

Uhm... I'm checking advance's website and they are listed at $113 and $89. How did you get them for $51?