jarl

... and then the p.o. filled the differential with ATF instead of the transmission. But how has this thing run for 100 miles like this?

This sounds a lot like what you get when you connect the "test connectors": all the relays controlled by the ECU start clicking, to make it easier to identify a damaged one (http://codes.rennacs.com/photo-gallery/SUBARU-EFI-01-CHOICE-Photos.php). As mentioned by rverdoold, it looks like some Subaru ECUs go bersek when the voltage runs low, or when you unplug the power for a very short time. Try disconnecting the ground cable from the battery for 5 minutes or more, and then reconnecting it. And make sure you didn't connect more than what you were supposed to.

Did you confirm it's torx? If so, Ace hardware, Sears or Harbor Freight come to mind

The FSM for these cars are very easy to find online. Do a search on this forum and you'll find the links. Just stay away from anyone who asks for money for it.

Well, congrats If the ends of the cylinder piston got broken, make sure the pivot point of the shoes (the other end) didn't bend. I wonder if applying some vacuum to the cylinder could have worked. Did you take a picture of the brake setup?

Je je... you are not the first person to make that mistake The SHORT tube on the PASSENGER side is for the front differential fluid. The LONG dipstick on the DRIVER'S side is for the transmission. Search the forum for front differential fluid replacement, and/or look for the FSM

I see you found a good replacement for you OBS already Congrats! I wonder if there's a "how to evaluate what you already purchased" guide... After all, if something is bad with your brand-new-used-and-not-running soobie, you don't want to make things worse, right? i.e., if the timing is off, you may not want to just crank the engine. One thing that worked in my case was to look at the glovebox for old receipts, or something written on the user manual. I found a receipt for an oil change, and the name of the owner on the owner's manual, and was able to contact him. To say he was surprised is an understatement but being honest and straightforward usually pays good dividends.

If there's a Harbor Freight nearby, you can get a stethoscope for $2.99 or so

Uhm... the "other tube"? o.O

That doesn't look like the wheels they had at NAIAS. Are those covered with something? Incidentally, the Toyota (Scion) version seems to have the same wheels:

Uhm... when the needle starts to climb like it's overheating, IT IS overheating!!! I tend to believe your problem is not the climate controls, but an air bubble in the cooling system. The bubble is probably at the heating core (hence blowing cold air), and preventing the coolant from circulating correctly (leading to the engine overheating). Have you checked the coolant level? Have you tried to burp the system recently? The other problems you mention may or may not be related.

By all means, feed us some pictures!

All I can say is "take it easy". It's just too easy to try to tackle too much at once and be overwhelmed In my car I had to deal with two coolant leaks: the first one, right after replacing the engine, was because of a pinched o'ring on the radiator drain valve. The second one was because of a worn upper radiator hose (the sealing surface was damaged). I had to deal with a bad noise from the rear brakes, and pulsing of the pedal. It was fixed by replacing the brake pads (as cheap as you feel comfortable) and filing the shims on the calipers where the pads slide Finally, one of the exhaust studs was broken and rusted in place. I had to remove it using a cobalt dremel tip, and after doing it I had to use a helicoil (actually, a helicoil knock-off). No issues so far. I spent at most $60 fixing those three (four?) things. Some other things may be expensive, but you should make an informed decision. Don't hurry, and *DO NOT* start throwing parts at the car without diagnosing the problems first.

Shawn: that part number gives me a "Throttle sensor ay" for $273

*IF* the Fiori rear brake setup is similar to the 700, this is what you are dealing with (from the FSM on the link I posted before). I agree the shoes may be preventing the drums from turning (or maybe the drum is rusted to the backing plate, or... ?), *but* in these cars (again, if it's like the 700) the drums will not come out as those in cars having a separate hub. The drum IS the hub, and as such you are fighting against the wheel bearings. If you hammer the drums, it will be the bearings to be receiving the blows... not the brake shoes. If rust is what is preventing this from coming apart, you should really try Evaporust. The thing is amazing...

Uhm... maybe we need the OP to clarify the part that said "removed bolts holding wheel cylinder and it seems loose inside". I don't see how the cylinder can be loose if the shoes are frozen in place...

(this may be useful: http://uploading.com/files/5ba6f95a/Subaru_700_Sedan.zip/ ) Yep... the product in the US is called evaporust, and it's the "bee's knees" It seems to be available in Australia as well. The problem I see is that it will be difficult to keep the parts immersed (I don't think you can make them leak proof). An option I saw somewhere was to use a small pump to keep the liquid flowing around the rusted parts. That being said, I don't think your problem is with the pads (from your "seems loose inside" comment). And yes, the hole on the drum is the one used for adjustment Now... if you are already at the "hammer it" phase of the job, why don't you try making/renting/buying a slide hammer? If the drum is like the one on the 700 sedan, the studs are fixed to the drum itself, and it *should* be safe to use a slide hammer there. Note also there are many more surfaces that can be rusted But if the car has been sitting for 7 years, waiting a couple of days for a penetrant oil to soak in should not hurt, right? Edit: forgot to mention that the link came from the forum at http://www.ausubaru.com

I'm interested in the replies as well... The first questions off the bat are: - how many MPG are you getting - what have you tried so far

Well, congratulations on not having to replace the engine From the information I have seen at this (and other) sites, you can not swap a Gen I engine into a car that came with a Gen II, and vice-versa. If your car came with a Gen I 2.5 DOHC engine (i.e. 95-99 Legacy), you can replace it with any 2.5 or 2.2 Gen I without much effort. I replaced my '99 OBW engine with an EJ22 out of a '95 Impreza, and the only differences I found were a couple of vacuum hoses. Pre-'95 engines will not have some of the components required for OBD2, and '99-on engines will be wired differently. You can probably adapt either engine, but the common opinion around here is that it's usually not worth the effort. Now... if your question was about swapping a '97 or '98 EJ25 into your '97 car, be aware that the EJ25 seems to be less robust than the EJ22. It would be much harder to find an EJ25 in good condition than an EJ22

I'm using a (Chinese, eBay) ELM327 bluetooth adapter along with Torque (paid version) on my Android phone. It works fine, although the refresh rate is too slow for fine diagnostic purposes (i.e. checking the response of the O2 sensors). My understanding is that the VAG-COM cable offers more parameters and better refresh rate. on your car it probably allows to communicate with the TCU. I'm interested in hearing opinions as well.

I have seen several mentions of it, but I had been reluctant to ask. But since everybody would be flaming Porcupine ( ) I guess I can ask here:what's this "manual" button?

Necroposting, but the answer to your question is "NO". The OP was about swapping a '98 EJ22 into a '98 car. By 2000 all the soobies had moved to the Gen 2 engine (some started before, i.e. the Forester), requiring more stuff to be done to the car.

Quick note: the EJ22 I put into my OBW came from a '95 Impreza LX, and had all the right guts for OBDII. And a request: if someone has the vacuum diagrams for these cars it would be WONDERFUL to have a thread containing them. I got my car working with the suggestions given here, although right now it has two canisters (front and rear behind wheel) and there's a hose plugged with a screw attached with electrical tape to the intake manifold. I didn't remove it before installing the manifold because I didn't have all the information I needed (i.e. the EJ22 diagram), and now it's very difficult to the the job right

Going back to the HG work, my 2 cents: take note of any oil leak there might be right now, and clean the engine really well before removing it. You'll be glad you did it. Also, if you get salt in the roads, expect some of the hardware to be rusted... specifically the exhaust manifold studs & nuts. You can buy the studs for $1.50 or so ea. at places like 1stSubaru, so it makes little sense to battle a rusted stud instead. Ask me how I know

My understanding is that the interior CV boots on these cars fail mainly because of their close proximity to the exhaust. If that's the case, looking for boots that last a long time on other cars may be a futile exercise. I replaced both interior booths on my car not long ago, while the engine was out of the car, without removing the axles. I admit it was messy, but I would probably don't mind doing it again in two years or whatever if the need arises. I would probably just follow some of the recommendations here (EMPI has been mentioned, right?) and don't think too much about it. Maybe the only thing I would be curious is the following: some boots have more "accordion segments" than others. I would imagine the more segments the better, as this would reduce the stress on the rubber. Does anyone have experience/knowledge about this? One comment: personally, I would not post someone else's contact information on a website unless I have express permission to do so. Even then, I would be reluctant to do it.