jarl

It can't be that difficult to find the gears, is it? ...just like a Ferrari H gate Good luck with the surgery PD: Found the above video after looking at BTW: You DO have the FSM for your car, right?

Lucky you... The last time I counted I think I was needing 10 or so...

That's a very young engine How big is the coolant leak? Is there coolant dripping on the floor?

How to pull the codes on an OBDI Soobie: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Just out of curiosity: how does a camshaft "fail" if the engine is still working? If there's a coolant leak (presumably from the front of the engine) AND the engine has lost power (i.e. bad timing) I would suspect the water pump is on it's last leg

[,] (comma), [.] (period) and [Enter] are your friends. Don't ignore them Just sayin'

For those of you willing to mess with the non-OEM bulbs, you can buy 25 of these for $9.99 plus shipping at Digikey, part number CM7219-ND (I have not tried them myself, but all the information matches Radio Shack's) RS' bulb specs: http://support.radioshack.com/support_supplies/doc15/15682.htm Digikey's bulb specs: http://www.chml.com/products/pdf/2-33.pdf

I would start by looking for a 2nd opinion. Something doesn't sound good.

Did you check the camshafts? The shiny stuff has the bad habit of traveling all around the engine...

I used one of the Mizumo kits for my '95 EJ22 and everything went smooth, with one exception (mentioned by other people before me, so I was prepared for it). And here it is: The pulley on the belt tensioner uses a spacer that -in the Mizumo kit- is not long enough. This means that if/when you torque the bolt per FSM instructions the pulley will not turn. The solution is as simple as to use the old bolt/spacer with the new pulley (I had to sand the interior of the pulley with #400 sandpaper, though)

Just a comment: I don't know if Subarus are like other cars, but sometimes "oil starvation event" just means "turned off the engine while the turbo was still doing 100k RPM". As for the size of the hole in the banjo bolt, larger holes/more oil flow is not always desirable. Hydrodynamics is a really fun topic...

Simple "Simple Green" is a big no-no with aluminum parts. There is no way to make sure you remove the stuff 100%, and where there's some left you will have *really* bad corrosion. Ask me how I know BUT... there's a version of Simple Green that is sold as being "aluminum friendly"

Sound sweet sound

I'm following a couple of threads about O2 sensors, and other things I have seen mentioned are a) warm things a little bit by running the car a few minutes (but avoid burning yourself with the cat!), and holding the welded flange where the O2 sensor is mounted to avoid breaking it from the exhaust when applying force to the sensor

Don't assume the worst (bearings) with the sound on the rear of the car. On my OBW the sound ended up being from stuck brakes, and braking lightly also quieted it somewhat until the pad separated from the disc again

For that amount you are not that far from a rebuilt engine with a warranty: http://www.ssisubaruspecialists.com/subaru-engine-remanufacturing-2/ They bought my EJ25 (which threw a rod) for a decent amount as well (that's the only contact I have had so far with them, BTW)

So... had you talk about buying it yourself?

Have you tried searching the forum? There were at least two threads not long ago...

Best luck with the rebuild!

Ninja! Not long ago someone was talking about the EGR-ing of a block as if it was a mythical beast One comment, though... you say you used an M20x1.5 tap... Isn't it an M12? (27/64" = 10.715mm)

Thanks John, It looks like you can actually check the old website using google's cache, but there isn't a description covering specifically the '95 Impreza LX. If you enter the part number for the '95 Legacy 2200 on the new website it says "we can not confirm it will work with your car" or something to that tune :-\ Oh well... Edit: I got it! Part #SOA430Q115, "ignition wire set" I realized the page I was looking at wasn't one of wire sets for different cars (Ok... it is) but one of "accessory/all/2011 accessory top ten exterior". So I went to the new web site and lo and behold, there is a category for "Popular Items"... you have to click on "accessories" (on the right) and then select "Popular Items" on the "switch to" drop list (WTF??? ), and there you can find the wire sets. Which is interesting, since the search for the part keyword "ignition wire set" returns "No items found for search string 'ignition wire kit' "

Oh kay... I'm trying to find the OEM wire set part number, but the only useful site I knew (subarupartsforyou) changed their system and now is as bad as the others to perform a search. Anybody can confirm that par number for the '95 impreza LX 2200? Thanks!

For what it's worth: (From "High-Performance Subaru Builder's Guide" by Jeff Zurschmeide) EDIT: Hold the press! I just found a nice table on my ('99) FSM, and it shows: w/ 2.2 engine: 1st: 2.785 - 2nd:1.545 - 3rd:1.000 - 4th:0.694 - R:2.272 w/ 2.5 engine: 1st: 3.027 - 2nd:1.619 - 3rd:1.000 - 4th:0.694 - R:2.272 The equivalent pages for the '95 show only the first set of ratios.

To answer the O.P. question, I *think* the thrust bearing on phase I engines is on #3. As mentioned before, not sure it's worth it to try to rebuild your engine. I would probably just replace the head gaskets and be done with it. Did it overheat badly? How much longer do you plan on keeping the car?

I have seen mention of the NGK wires as well, but I think there are "grades" of them. Am I correct? Are the NGK wires (which?) at least as good as the OEM?