jarl

Yep... that's a steep slope indeed Let's see... the change in potential energy is m*g*h... =1460 [Kg]*9.81[m/s^2]*488 [m] =~6600 BTU being dissipated at the brakes, and that's assuming you didn't touch the accelerator pedal. How long did it take you to make those 3.5 miles?

One thing that *may* have happened is that when you retracted the piston it didn't go straight into the cylinder, but at an angle. In that case it would create nicks into the walls of the cylinder, and prevent movement. Or you may have dislodged crud into the brake lines. There are lots of possibilities...

I'm not sure what you mean... the beginning of the thread was about overhauling the brakes, and the OP did fix them. As I said before, as long as the car doesn't represent a risk for the others or for himself, I don't see any problem. It would be nice if we all had the money to replace the discs and calipers with Brembos, but that's not always possible, and some people can't afford to stop using their (ours?) cars.

There are two different things here: you say you bought rotors and discs from Advance Autoparts, but you also said the problem seems to be with the piston not retracting correctly on the caliper. Until you replace/overhaul the calipers, you can't blame it on AA

As far as I know there's nothing that would prevent the piston from being ejected if you pump the brakes without pads. Did you check the condition of all the surfaces the pads slide on? The pads should move freely by hand...

Don't be surprised if the first few days the temperature is slightly different... one of the rotors is probably in better shape than the older other one, an will take some miles to sand the surface a bit using the pads

I keep using the word "shims", which is inaccurate This is what I'm talking about (spare calipers awaiting installation). The SS "thingies" ("anti-rattle shields"? red arrow) collect water/humidity between them and the caliper bracket, on the surfaces pointed at by the green arrows. If the rust is bad enough, the bracket "swells" underneath the shields (ok... bear with me ) The problem is that the pads slide on the external surface of the shields, and the tolerances -as you can see- are *extremely* tight. If the bracket distorts just a millimeter or two that's enough to prevent the pads from moving at all. If I recall correctly there's a TSB on this, and the official suggestion is sanding/filing some metal from the pads, but in my case the bracket was so badly rusted I decided to file the bracket itself until the pads moved with little effort. Not enough for rattling, though.

Those are cheap... $15 or so Not 100% sure of that. Lots of surface rust, but the subjacent metal can be Ok. Thankfully you don't brake with those Most probably yes. I know mine were in worse condition, and are working now. You may get away with replacing the pins (maybe not even necessary), but you need to make 100% sure the new pads slide smoothly on the SS shims. In my case the metal under the shims was so rusted it had swollen, and the new pads didn't move at all. I had to use a metal file and remove some material until the pads moved again. Just make sure to use plenty of Liquid Wrench/Kano Kroil or something like that so you don't break a bolt when removing things. Welcome to the club! I'd love to say it's an exclusive one but, alas... IMHO, as long as the car is not a risk to you or the other people, drive it to the ground People will try to give you next to nothing for the car anyway.

You have a PM... <ding>

http://web.mac.com/bikenomad/iWeb/Site/car/car.html O.o

Hold on... I thought you had the engine outside the car How bad is the access to the lifters with the engine in the car? I may be in your same boat with my EJ22. Either that or I have some *very* noisy injectors...

I'd love to get a new remote for my car as well Are they OEM, or aftermarket?

No idea about the aftermarkets, but from what I have seen the remote control system in these cars (at least on the '99 OBW) seems to be have been made by Alpine, and I think it was used on BMWs as well. That should expand your options

If everything else fails: http://www.ssisubaruspecialists.com/subaru-engine-remanufacturing-2/ (The last time I suggested this place they didn't answer, though...)

Yup... I sold one for more than $100 as well I guess some rebuilders just have all the equipment to do any machining/turning/milling in-house, so they can make more than a few bucks even on engines that have spun a bearing. The only thing they didn't want to take was the intake manifold. The guy who picked up the engine said they had too many of those.

Je je... I'm not going to say it *is* the problem. But replacing that valve made my car's P0440 disappear

Yep... shut off valve. As I understand it the "roll over" valve is actually located somewhere else. When I replaced the filler pipe on my car, I tried to save some bucks and overhaul & reuse the existing (rusted) valve. Of course it didn't work The ECU started complaining about the evaporating system, and after a couple of months the act of putting gas became a real chore, since the nozzle kept tripping all the time. When I got fed up with this I had to take the filler neck down again and replace the valve. One of the small nuts got damaged, etc. The short of it is: replace it with the filler neck

To the OP: if you live in NY there's another online parts store you may want to chek. They are in NY and I had a faster turnaround with them (BUT... you'll have to pay taxes ) https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/index.php

Forgive me brothers for I have sinned, and I asked the question first on another forum... but alas, no answers so far The short version of it is: I have a Yakima Little Joe bike rack. This is the kind of bike rack that is fixed to the car using straps, and according to the Yakima fitting sheet it should fit the OBW. However, don't know where the side straps are supposed to be fixed: the sides of the hatch are "busy" down to the area below the rear lights, and the side straps will be too low if placed in that there. I'm not in a position to shed hundreds of dollars for a new bike rack, so this one will have to work or I'll have to bike to wherever I intend to ride my bike The question is: how do you fix it to the car?

Oh my... I work with cameras on a daily basis, and that's about the ugliest implementation I have seen in a long time Cosmetics apart, I wonder if they will have you sign a paper saying they are not responsible for hardware/software malfunctions. I can see some kids letting the car brake for the "fun" of it

I don't see any show stopper. I would expect all the problems to be present in a Subaru that old, specially if they are selling it. After all, they are selling it for a reason, right? That being said, I would rather not ask them to fix the stuff, but ask for a hefty discount to do those myself, and make sure those are done correctly. Brakes is one weekend, axle boot another, and so on. Head gaskets is a more serious issue, but from my experience in this country mechanical stuff can be fixed, body issues can't.

What he (^) said. I remember reading somewhere (but where ) Subaru made at least two very hard compromises with this car. From Motor Trend: "Keeping the center of gravity as low as possible -- always a good thing for a sports car -- was one of the BRZ's key design goals, and Subaru's engineers have made the most of the flat-four engine's obvious advantage in this area. Compared with the 2012 Impreza's engine, the BRZ's boxer sits almost 4.8 inches lower and just over 8 inches farther back in the chassis. What that means is this: The top of the engine is roughly knee height, and the center line of the front axle is aligned with the bore center of the rear pair of cylinders" According to the "other source" I can't remember, this also meant: 1) Because of the position of the engine, there is no way to use Subaru off-the-shelf bits to get 4WD 2) The exhaust had to be routed differently, and that precludes the use of the "standard" turbo stuff. But there are good news, though

I used the Mizumo when I did my car's EJ22. If I remember correctly, the tensioner's pulley spacer was 0.4mm too short :\ One thing to note, with the Mizumo kits at least, is that the description of the "item" on ebay specifies which water pump you are buying. I bought the kit with the GMB pump and it came with the metal gasket. The four cam seals were included as well, but someone had suggested using OEM ones instead so I got them from a dealer. The idler pulleys included were single row as well.

What they said. The only other thing that would be good to know is how many miles are on the car (to know what may/may not have been done to it). The burping of the system, as Grossgary said, is critical... search the group for instructions on how to do it (lot of people have problems doing it right)

Yep... I'm a Google fan But just in case, it's also possible to look for 3-character words using a wildcard: "oil* pump". Or use google to search USMB, using the "site:domain" parameter. In our case, site:ultimatesubaru.org legacy oil pump (here)