jarl

Time to put on the expedition hat and go junk-yarding

Not so fast, chaps! There's a P0851 for AT as well... and means exactly the same (NEUTRAL SWITCH INPUT CIRCUIT LOW)

Helpful information needed: is it a new (to you) car? Did the lights work at some point and then died (after you fiddled with _____________), or they have never worked? Do other lights (i.e. ventilation controls background) work with the dimmer?

As a suggestion for other people in the same boat: you can source the motors from a junkyard. The wires coming out of them are most probably the same as the ones included with the aftermarket kit.

Come on... it's as clear as a plate of Lo Mein! All the labels are one or two pages before that one. Do I have to explain everything?

The trick, my friend, is that there are several places where you can get the same information. Edit: you have been PMed...

My money (all two cents of it) goes for a bent pin or a connector not seated correctly. All the connectors for the ECM are in the area where you were working.

Sorry. Just checking. You'd be surprised at how many people ask about their corner light staying on, or the hazard lights not flashing It sounds like a bad ground or a short circuit on the wiring going to the front left lights. If that ground lowers the voltage seen by the hazard flasher you would lose that function as well. Have you tried measuring the voltage between the socket and ground and/or B(+)?

Sorry for the stupid question, but: how are you turning on the hazard lights? Are you aware of the switch on top of the steering column?

Flame? You are going to the stake, my friend! Seriously... with so many beautiful GTs in the world, why do you want to do this to an Outback? Not that you can't do it, of course, but you'll probably end up with a better result starting with a car closer to what you want... Edit: I'm finding some pictures on the web. i.e. (from http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lets-see-those-pictures-your-lowered-legacy-126748.html ) or (from http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788725 ... take a look at it!) Not my cup of tea but look good, I reckon.

Just out of curiosity: what exactly do you need help with? Maybe we are all giving opinions here without addressing whatever it is that you are looking for...

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Hey! 18 months isn't that bad! (being sarcastic) That's precisely the reason I don't want to use a normal antenna. I'm thinking the easiest thing to do would be to get an antenna amplifier from a junkyard (any car with a stubby antenna will have one) and using any antenna with it. I would probably use the leftover pieces from the power antenna and bolt the new one to it. Another option is using the rear defroster as an antenna (I've seen that mentioned in a couple of sites). The thing is, I like to learn from other people mistakes. So, people, please share your mistakes

Or just hang the nice bits in a wall, play the ninja with the clutchs, etc. I'm seriously considering hanging an EJ25 intake to the wall. After all, some people mount dead animal's heads, right? (My GARAGE wall, that is! )

Which is perfectly fine, may I add Sometimes the "fast" approach is desirable, in particular if you blow an engine every 3rd week

Hmmm. I would be careful with this. The dealer is there to make money, and if they charged you $125 (one hour?) that probably means that's what they have spent checking your car.

I remember something to the tune of "don't lower the car unless the axle nut is tightened correctly, or damage to the (new) bearing will occur".

And of course some knowledge of an antique language (Classic Curse) helps somewhat

Google them, and on the page you get let people know how bad the place is. Then contact the BBB and do the same. And/or take them to court. The people are not just criminals, are inept criminals.

Some time ago I was removing the snow from my Saturn windshield and flexed the (fixed) antenna without noticing it. When I released it (without noticing) it sprung back and hit me in my (frozen) ear. That's one SERIOUS pain I'm not in a hurry to repeat So, no fixed antennas for my soobie. I have yet to see a power antenna worth recovering at the local junkyards, and the $38 for the OEM antenna mast seem fair to me. However, as I said, it's just a matter of months before the antenna gets broken again. Which is why I want to explore alternative options. I like the idea of a stubby antenna (maybe in lieu of the power one), but I'm not sure how it will behave. So... no one has ever toyed with the idea?

I was going to post this as a side note to someone else's post, but I decided not to do any thread hijacking... So: The power antenna on my '99 OBW is broken, and I have not been able to convince myself to buy the replacement mast because I know it won't last too long. I'm looking for options, and what I'm *actually* considering is replacing the antenna with a) a stubby amplified antenna from another car, a thin wire glued to the rear quarter window, or c) a piece of wire inside the rear spoiler. I wouldn't consider using a fixed mast antenna in the same place as the power antenna since I *hate* those too much. Has anyone tried any of these options (or has some other suggestion)?

Yep... $25 sounds fair for the whole thing. The mast at 1stSubaru or the likes is $38 or so, though. Anyway... use a DVM to measure resistance between each pin and ground. I bet none of them is connected to ground in any way: I believe the two pins are just the two ends of the motor winding. Connecting one to +12 and the other one to ground moves the motor in one direction, do the opposite and the opposite happens. There should be a limit switch to prevent damaging it by running it permanently. *IF* what I just said is correct, you'll need a DPDT 12V relay and a soldering iron. C'est tout.

Is your power antenna kaput, or is the mast broken? I think the mast's cost at the online dealer's is fair (sub-$40). The only thing preventing me from buying it is knowing it will break again

Why would you do that? Unless you are ABSOLUTELY sure the p.o. didn't put ATF on the wrong place (something that happens more often than you might expect), don't assume anything -specially if it's expensive-. Drain the front differential, fill it with the right fluid, and make sure the ATF level on the tranny is correct. If after doing so you find large quantities of ATF on the front diff then start getting worried. The ATF leak can be located anywhere... BTW: "Stopped leaking" = the level went below the leak point. I'm surprised the car still moves...

The FSM says the "test mode connector" (green) is located on the back of the "glove box lower cover"