iamtheq

Just busting your shoes. Glad you got it to fire up. Those 20R/22R blocks are tanks. Make sure the seals are good, put fresh oil in it and fire it up. I recall springing a leak and running my 20R 4 quarts low on the highway (5 quart capacity with the large filter in place) and it only got a little warm. Never had any lasting effects from that. God, I miss that car. One of those "never should have gotten rid of it" deals. If you take the front end apart to replace the front seal at the oil pump, DON'T overtighten that large bolt in the center of the water pump. It snaps easily (not that I know from experience or anything ). There is also one bolt down through the front of the head into the timing cover. I always forgot about that one when tearing into the thing.

Glad it's fixed (although I told you it was 180 out a year ago Contrats to screwbaru for penatrating the thick skull!

Sounds like a great truck. I'm really glad to be back in a Toyota, even if it does belong to the wife. Easily my favorite car I've ever owned was my Celica. My two brothers each had one and so did my best friend as well. In the end, I had the last one, but with parts from each of the others making them live on.

She had an old Rodeo that needed some exhaust and tranny work. Traded up. V6 version but with plenty of oomph. I know there are a bunch of guys with older Toy's. I know I had a 79 Celica years ago and loved it (20R rules). Anyone with newer Toyotas?

If the rotor is off, it's because the distributor is off, since those are keyed to only go on one way. I made the same mistake when I rebuilt a 20R in a Celica. I had the Distributor 180 out. Like the others said, though, check the firing order first. All of the distributor caps that I ever used for my 20R had numbers on them so you can't go wrong on the order.

East Greenville Same borough as Pennsburg where there is a Harry's location. 30 minutes south of Allentown where Harry's and Kress are located as well.

I just mailed my registration renewal for my van today. $36 for one year registration. Annual safety inspection and emissions inspection required (some regions in the state don't require emissions, though). That $36 is a flat fee, too. Nothing to do with the value of your vehicle. I believe that trucks are higher, though.

Yup, I ran 87 octane in my 87 SPFI all the time and it never pinged a bit. Got great mileage, too (even with the 3AT).

I was looking for parts for the wife's Rodeo, but I scouted the Subaru's as well. Pennsburg: Two 88 GL wagons. Both Maroon. One was 5 speed dual range. Rear diff tag said 3.9, but didn't say LSD One was Push Button 4wd auto. Couldn't make out the rear diff tag (covered in grime and I wasn't crawling today) Both bodys were in OK shape. Rust, but no cancer that I saw. Some glass broken, but probably a full set between them. The 5 speed was SPFI. I couldn't get the hood up on the auto. Interiors were great and in average shape (no tears) but pretty dirty. There may have been other EA82 cars, but not that I saw. Many EJ22 Legacy sedans and one wagon. Most of them had body damage of some type, but more than one had a very clean looking engine. A mix of autos and 5 speeds. No EA81 cars that I saw. Allentown: One Loyale wagon, FWD auto. Nothing special. Interior is trashed, lots of broken glass. Lots of rust. One 88 Full Time 4wd auto Turbo sedan. There was a button on the console that said "Hold" so I imagine that is a center diff lock. Drive train looked to be entirely intact. Turbo and intake are still assembled, rear diff was there (couldn't make out the tag for the ratio), mustache bar was there, but unbolted, all four wheels were there as well. The Silver body was a complete rust bucket (holes entirely through in the trunk wells) but the "turbo triangles" were all there. Front glass is missing. The hood was painted black (to make it look like CF probably) and had holes/reinforcement discs from hood pins, but the pins were gone. Interior appolstery is not in great shape, but all plastic trim is there. Digi-dash is in tact (no idea if it works, though). *Edit to Add*: The strut caps under the hood said "electronic height control" or something like that as well. Hadn't seen that before. I saw one legacy, but it was in really bad shape and mostly stripped anyway. As with Pennsburg, no EA81 cars. It turns out that they didn't have what I came for anyway. I needed the power window regulator from the driver's door on a 94 Rodeo. There was one Rodeo between both yards, but it had manual windows and the driver's door was missing anyway. I ended up talking with the guy across the street at Kress and he is ordering one for me. It will be waiting when I return from my trip this week. So it wasn't a complete loss, someone left their swivel-head 3/8 ratchet with 6 inch extension and 19mm socket in the rodeo. Not bad for my $2 admission I'm leaving tomorrow for Columbia, SC for the week, so I wouldn't be able to grab anything for anybody anyway, but I just wanted to let any one in the area know what's available since I was there. Ed

Wasn't there an "RS" version that was basically the GL/Loyale but with a body kit? As said above, check on cancer rust. I'm sure you know about salt use in our home state. See if it has a current PA inspection sticker. I know a lot of people (myself included) that have traded or sold off cars rather than pay to fix it for the annual PA inspection.

Must be. My Toyota, Subaru and Isuzu all did that. My Mazda MPV does not, though.

Man, I hope she doesn't hear that you said that:)

Thanks bruddah

Forgive my ignorance, but what does JDM stand for? I've seen that thrown around so much but I don't really know. I assume the "J" is "Japan".

Yes, the rear drive shaft turns when you are in 4WD.

My wife says I should cut out the Mexican food when I have a loud rear end, but as to your problem, how about the u-joints in the rear drive shaft? Are they solid? I've not experienced that in a Subaru before but my old full-size Blazer would act similarly (clunking, etc.) when I had bad u-joints. Ed

Plus there is another one for folks who joined in 1998 (the charter member icon "glows"). I'm jealous of that one. Grass is always greener:)

Yes, that is really the right tool. This one is actually universal. A subaru specific one that I've seen is a disc with the two nubs on it that align with the subaru calipers. This square puzzle looking tool can be used on the common screw-in type calipers of all makes. The square hole accepts a 3/8 inch ratchet head and you just go from there.

It's easier with the right tool

I know what you mean. It's been at least 5 years since my daily driver was a stick shift and I still go for the clutch sometimes. Fortunately, both of my vehicles right now have narrow brake pedals so accidentally putting two feet on the brake is less likely.

My buddy's 92 Toyota truck had one. Hated it. You either had to have your foot on the clutch or you had to push the little button on the dash. This is one of those "safety devices" that is silly. Trying to protect us from our own carelessness. If you don't know to put it in neutral or depress the clutch, you shouldn't be driving a stick. No offense meant to your wife, by the way. As All_talk said, it's all about good habits. My daily driver is an automatic now, but when I get the opportunity to drive a manual, the old habits just come right back like I never stopped.

Just so you know, on your second leg, I76 is the PA turnpike there, toll road. I'm about 35 miles east of Reading (maybe an hour drive). If you need an emergency contact, let me know.

I had Kelly Safari's on my old Blazer. Wore pretty well and good snow traction.

Ahem, Pennsburg. We locals need to stick up for our small towns :-p

We can keep it at my place and you guys can come over and use it any time you want. Ed