the3rsss

Parking pawl broke. Probably laying in the bottom of your pan. No easy fix.

Good! Glad you got it! When I put my engine in it wouldn't start. I was sure I screwed something up. Walked away for a day, then realized I pressure washed the engine bay with the engine out. Must have gotten water in the connectors. Cleaned up wires and greased them and it started right up.

Look for the obvious first. Double check your connections. A vac. Leak will make it run bad. Does the idle seem to be a little higher. Don't see how a compression test will help much. If a valve is slightly off the compression will still be fine. what plugs did you install? Plug wires ok? Don't be so quick to assume its the worst. You might have fixed it with the dist:plug. Wire tie. It so it wont happen again. You might want to walk away from it and think about it for a day or two. Sometimes I get frustrated and need to step away.

I have replaced headgaskets on a dohc 2.5. I am just amazed anyone would even attempt this job on the car. With that said.....is there any reason to believe that with updated gaskets, properly cleaned and torque etc, that the 2.5 won't last as long as any other subaru engine?

Double check your vac lines and elec. Connections. Cel on? Did you use oem gaskets on the intake? You can check the marks by pulling the covers and turning the crank. From what I have read here when your off a tooth it won't start or really runs like crap. Did you at least check your valve clearances while the engine was apart? All ok? Sounds like it could be something minor.

This one actually sounds fairly easy to diagnose. No heat and high temps at idle. Air in the system right? Do we all agree with that? Now, how did it get there, thats the question. A small leak? Maybe a bad clamp or hose? Did you recently open up system to do some work? These things can be a *************** to burp. Hopefully its not headgaskets but it always seems to be.

Just wanted to wrap this thread up. I tried a few different motor oils to see if it lessened the piston slap and here is what I found. 1. Mobil one 0 w40. This was by far the loudest and took the longest to go away. Even knocked a little when fully warmed. 2. Mobile one 10w 30. Still knocked though not as bad. Mobil 5000 5w 30. Quieted down the motor a bit. Fan best with this. Didn't seem to tolerate synthetics well at all. Just my 2 cents. Also, if I warm up the car with the block heater I get no slap.

Everything I have read on this forum and others is that the 2.5 is a good engine with bad head gaskets. Also that the oem replacement gaskets are well made and will last. Rooster, why do you say ......"inherent risk of further head gaskets failure" with regards to the 2.5?

Please correct me if I am wrong, but isn't a 0440 code electrical? The ecm tests the electrical circuit to the purge valve and it fails. This sets the code. Either an open circuit, bad solonoid, or bad ecm.

I can't get regular hose to work. The bends are way to tight. Went to order at the dealer and he cent even find them! Anyone have part numbers? Got to say, subaru dealer part computer program sucks. Shows every hose at the intake ( vac etc) and just lables each as "hose".

Amen to that! I chased that code for two months. The filler neck was full of holes and the valve was a blob of rust. Got a new neck and valve and the code is gone.

I read a few threads where the belts didn't have marks :clap:or the marks didn't line up right.

I didn't trust the eBay kits on my dohc 2.5 but didn't want to pay for oem. I went with a complete gates kit. Belt and all idlers. Then picked up a gates water pump. Whole thing was about 150. Get the pn from the gates website, then look on eBay. It will save you money. BTW. The gates kit had oem jap bearings in the idlers and the belt was perfect.

I am having a hell of a time finding the correct hoses for this (99 obw 2.5) auto. Ordered them from gates but they were wrong! Don't want to go to the dealer. Can I just bypass them? Will it effect my warm-up or anything else? Can't figure out why they would want to heat up the tb. What do you guys think?

I have used a scope. The rap is much more pronounced on both rear piston. Does this by itself, eliminate the chance it could be lower end noise? Or , say, cam bearings?

99obw 140k

Ok. I've read a million threads about piston slap (mostly on gm forums), what causes it and what can be done about it. I have a few questions about it. Now, a lot of this is from my memory so bear with me. Lower end noise, big and small end bearings, crank bearings, etc. Get noisier and are more pronounced under load and on a warm engine. Valve train noise is the opposite, it is noisier at startup but never really good away when warm. Piston slap , for the most part, vanishes in ten or twenty min of driving. Do I have this right? Are there any other knocking noises that disappear once the engine warms?

headgaskets really are not that big a deal. The engine needs to come out but afterward it should run a very long time. I think i spent about 500 and it took about three weeks, mostly waiting for parts. car runs great now. looking forward to another 130k miles.

There are three major mfg of car batteries. East penn , johnson controls and exide. Johnson is by far the largest with brands such as interstate,optima, etc. They also supply batteries to sears, autozone, advance auto and many many others. Napa uses exide batteries. The johnson batteries get very good reviews. The stock battery for my car called for 550 cca. I got a sears die hard gold with 640cca and 100 hr reserve with a 3yr replacement and 100 month warranty for 107. I believe most subarus use a 35 group battery. any top of the line johnson battery will last a very long time. Also heard good things about the exide batteries but napa is kinda far from me so i went with johnson.

Id get a cap just for the hell of it. Did u check for bubbles? Take a wiff of the bottle?

I think your wasting your time and money here. If the bottle overflows its one of two things. Radiator cap( I think you ruled that out. as you said the coolant level went down in the bottle) or headgaskets. Is get a stock.

My 2.5 went a few months ago. Never overheated but the bottle overflowed and i could see bubbles when I reved it hot. Also a strong smell of exhaust. from the bottle. The bubbles are exhaust. Like i said, its either a radiator cap or head gaskets

One of two things.....rad cap or head gasketsf

I just replaced the rollover valve in my 99 obw. it was leaking vac and causing a cel p0446 i believe, anyway had to order a new valve from the dealer. 58$. After I put it in, the cel cleared up but it was very very slow taking gas. Pump kept shutting off. I tried diff stations and pumps, same thing. Finally, i reversed the hoses to the rollover or vent valve(whatever subaru is calling it now) and it takes gas. I would take a pic or mark the hoses before i take off the old one.

kind of an unrelated question...sorry.... but wont anti seize also burn off at high temps?