cmill189

You need to test their resistance with an ohmmeter. Check with the manual, but it's something like 36 ohms. If they are out of spec they will need replaced. I read on here that they're prone to heat failure. One of mine had 5x the allotted resistance and one so much it wouldn't register. The common fix seems to be fooling the ECU with a properly sized resister, but that is only a band-aid fix. For my own car, I found both solenoids at a pick 'n pull that tested good. However, if these die or I couldn't find any, I was prepared to grab some from another Japanese car and solder on the Subaru electrical connectors. I grabbed a couple extra Subaru connectors, and built a plug 'n play extension harness and moved the solenoids with longer vacuum lines onto the passenger strut tower. There was two threaded holes that the original bolts worked with on my car. I don't know if it was a waste of time or not, but it was fun and looks original.

Manifold gaskets at Oreilly's are $8 for both.

I searched but only found threads regarding problems with lights staying on constantly. I pulled my dash apart to find where the Check Engine Light was and why it wasn't working. Well I found it (no bulb) and for the time being swiped the battery warning light to replace it. I will go to the junkyard and pick up a couple bulbs/sockets, but my question is about the other empty slots. Other than Charge, CEL, AT oil (doesn't pertain to me) and brake fluid; I couldn't figure out the other abbreviations. If one is a shift light, I would rather not replace that. Thanks.

I run 85 in my EA82 without issue; whether in the valley floor (~4000ft) or the highest I've driven in the mountains (~7000ft.)

I had a 9lb Fidanza flywheel in an old car (non Subaru.) It totally changed just about all driving aspects of the car, but mostly for the good. The only "bad" was the learning curve once installed, but it was really no big deal. Driving in traffic was hardly affected. The biggest change was needing to rev match every shift, because the revs dropped as fast as they climbed. Just a blip of the throttle could take you from say, 3k to 6k, so learning to properly rev match was needed as well. With the A/C compressor engaged it was even more exaggerated. It had a replaceable friction surface, so I don't if that counts as composite, but I drove tens of thousands of miles without issue. Idle was dead on, and there was no clutch chatter. The pros FAR outweigh the cons in my opinion, however I can't speak for experience on a Subaru engine.

This could be a rather long response. In my three weeks of ownership... -replaced exhaust manifold gaskets -found and replaced missing 4wd vacuum line -replaced passenger front spindle/bearings -replaced windshield -replaced passenger mirror -replaced 2 rusty and bent wheels to allow rotation -cleaned inside/outside -removed hacked up radio wiring/rewired in factory plug -replaced hacked up front door panels -replaced front speakers -opened master window switch to clean and reset all contact points -installed factory radio and tape deck -replaced blower motor resistor -re-soldered contacts on dash clock -plugs/wires/air filter/fuel filter/pcv/cap and rotor/set timing -replaced right taillight, removed hacked trailer wiring -removed hacked keyless entry/wrapped wiring -greased front pads/shims -replaced rear drums and shoes -flushed and bled brake system -replaced EGR/purge solenoids and added plug 'n play extension harness to hopefully prolong life and replaced vacuum lines with longer ones -replaced muffler I think there are some odds and ends, but that's about it.

There is a HUGE difference between a factory/proper conversion HID setup and throwing compatible HID bulbs in factory housing. A proper setup has reflectors to direct and focus the light into that cool looking cutoff line. Factory housing intended for halogens let the light scatter in all directions, as evidenced by these and anyone's photos of their HID's. Also, not that it matters, but not caring about other drivers [vision] is a pretty poor attitude; especially when they're coming towards you. :-\

All that glare is exactly what oncoming drivers will see as well. The eBay HID "conversion" fad makes driving at night really annoying.

I used this method on mine. Like the original poster, I only had the drivers window. After pulling it apart, all of of the rockers and very small contacts on the bottom of the switch body had moved around. A few careful minutes later, all was good except for the up on the passenger rear.

So I purchased my first Subaru two weeks ago today. A '92 Loyale 5MT 4WD. I bought it with the intentions of having a beater that could get around Salt Lake in the winter and double the fuel mileage of my Yukon. It seems like it will serve that purpose, but it also seems like it may replace the Yukon soon:eek: