WAWalker

That is a Pressure Differential Transducer. I don't believe there is really anyway to test them. No, there should not be water in it or the lines going to it. Yes, if you pull vacuum on the EGR valve while engine is idling, the idle speed should drop, run rough or die.

I was saying................"Engine braking" weather gas or diesel, is inefficient. Thus the need for an additional system to provide efficient "engine braking", enter the "Jake Brake", exhaust brakes etc.

Now who can tell me why there is even a filter in that vacuum line? That line is not drawing air from the atmosphere, why filter it?

The guy that does all my tinting uses ammonia and water.

Intakes are totally different. Other parts? Parts attached to the intake? Or just other parts in general?

What MY car was purcased with "broken trans"? Didn't use what????????????? What MY was this car? Which rear gear? What MY TCU do you have in what MY car?Do you have ADD?

Check all your harness connections. That is the signal that tells the ECU that the car has an automatic transmission.

Replacing the valve cover gaskets on one of these things for the first time isn't turning out to be real fun either.

It's actually on the other side. I looked on that side first, since that is were it has always been.

Looking at the H-6 that I just pulled into the shop...................................It would be much easier to use a spanner wrench on the front crank pulley rather than accessing the torque converter through the plug on the bell housing, IMO.

That is probably the clearest explanation so far. Not the first to say basically the same thing...................but I don't think it matters how many times it is repeated...............If someone doesn't want to be "wrong" they won't (in their mind). Entertaining none the less.

You answered your own question below. Didn't you? You "inspected" 5 axles, only one was "acceptable" to you. If quality is all the same just packaging is different, how does this happen? So you have seen the inside of enough NEW OE Mitsubishi CV joints to know what kind of finish Mitsubishi requires? Or you have the specs that Mitsubishi provided their axle manufactures? Or your just really really good? Five minutes total for inspecting axles and what, 2-3 days of down time for an axle replacement= Inconvenience for a customer, and loss of profit. Your not a working tech these days are you? I've installed many axles that didn't "feel quit right" that have turned out to be just fine. That could just be that I'm not competent enough to "feel" the quality of an axle though.

#12 is the one that normally leaks.

Tight exhaust valves= Burned exhaust valves= valve job/new valves. It is difficault to say what your problem may be without sitting in your car, but.......................................................

Just for justfor's. I have never in ~11 years working on these cars seen that o-ring leak. Either the body gasket or the front seal. Just my experience. I've been wrong before.

As EVOthis mentioned...................I think a vacuum gage would be your friend right now. A worth while perches if you don't have one. If valves are tight, vacuum readings would be invaluable at this point. Believe me I have seen this before. If you put many miles on with tight valves, you are going to be out of luck. I truly hope it is something simple, but I wouldn't take my chances knowing the history behind all of this.

This is a pic of a transfer case I had laying around. You do not have to remove the entire transfer case. As I said..............9 bolts, shift linkage yoke, everything eles to get to this point should be obvious. Once tail housing is off, you see this. The output shaft with the bearing and gear pulls right out. Below that is your viscous coupler. It will pull right out also. This is your viscous coupler. Pop in an new or good used unit, reinstall every thing in reverse order. Really a very basic easy job. No special tools or press needed. If you buy a new VC, it will come with a new bearing already pressed on.

The new viscous coupler comes with fluid sealed in it. You don't disassemble the VC. The only part of the trans. that needs to be removed is the very back part of the housing. There are 9 bolts holding it on. The shift linkage yoke needs to be removed. Just knock the roll pin out. I'll take a picture for you.

As I remember it...........................They did not get the valves adjusted properly the first go around with this car. Can you be sure they got it right this time. If not..................DO NOT drive it for awhile to see if it gets better. It can only get worse if the valves are tight. Sounds like you are back to square one.

It is the gasket between the two halves of the pump body that normally leaks. You can get a complete seal kit for these pumps. Front seal, body gasket, and all the o-rings. Not a difficult job, to reseal these pumps. PN 34419AA150

Also............. Yes, rust in the vacuum lines could cause the problem. As native Montanan cars are rust free, that isn't a problem I see, so it is not the first thing to come to mind. But should be checked if one lives in the rust belt.

The ECU uses manifold pressure to monitor EGR flow, via the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. When the EGR valve opens it causes a change is manifold pressure. If the ECU doesn't see enough change it will flag a code for EGR flow problem. If this filter to the MAP sensor is restricted (doesn't take much), the manifold air pressure readings are not necessarily affected. But the slight change is pressure when the EGR valve opens is not detectable.

It should throw a code for EGR CIRCUIT Malfunction, if the solenoid is bad.

Thats the one.

My guess is you can only buy it from Subaru.