WAWalker

First, replace the inline filter between the intake and the MAP sensor (passangers side behind intake runner #3). Part # 22663AA010 It is ~$12 part. Porc! We need some pictures!

Pipe plugs can be found in the pluming department of a hardware store. I usually go to ACE Hardware stores to get taps.

Flashing check engine light = Class A misfire. So you will have another misfire code stored. Go ahead and have codes pulled again. Get the code number, will be a 5 digit code starting with P0. Get back with the code number, and more info about your car. Legacy OB, or just a Legacy?

That would definitely be the best solution. I was going to mention the water jacket plugs in that area on the EJ22's. But they are not tapered pipe plugs and are an odd ball size. And didn't know if you would want to by a tap to plug one hole. I've got a few taps laying around that still look brand new. I look at them and ask myself, "what did I buy that for?". After a while I usually remember that one job.

As far as the EJ series engines go, I believe this was only used on certain EJ18's

I assume you are making block-off plates for the small ports on the outboard side of the exhaust ports.? I would just clean the mating sufaces really good and put some Ultra Copper RTV on it. Or if the gasket is fairly good still, put RTV on both sides and reuse it. Either way would probably work OK.

Here is what Subaru has to say about the tensioner noise. Engine - Noise From Timing Cover Area SOURCE: Subaru Tech Tips TITLE: Engine Noise - All H6 Vehicles APPLIES TO: All 6 cylinder vehicles except SVX SERVICE TIP: If you encounter an H6 engine with a noise coming from the front timing chain area and suspect it might be caused by the timing chain tensioner, please follow the instructions below. SOA has tried this procedure and found it to be an effective fix. Repair Procedure: 1) Start the Engine 2) Raise engine RPM's under cold condition, up to 5000rpm 3 to 4 times. 3) Confirm whether the noise is eliminated. 4) If the noise still exists, repeat above procedure again. If you cannot eliminate the noise with above procedure, replace Chain Tensioner. Looking at the FSM, the crank pulley is really no different than any of the EJ pulleys, just has that aerodynamic cover over the bolt.

Skip, you need a new serpentine belt. Timing chain tensioner noise has be a bit of a problem on the H-6. Especially on engines that don't get frequent oil changes.

I would assume the head gaskets are original? Do a search on EJ25 DOHC head gaskets.

EJ25 DOHC http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/StepEWAug07.pdf EJ25 SOHC With other good information. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf EJ22 http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf

All very very good points GeneralDisorder. One more thing I would add. There are a lot of new axles (all new parts, made in China) being sold as "remaned" axles in the aftermarket now. Very unlikely that these parts are meeting OEM standards. And.......ok4450..........In my shop if a customer wants an axle disassembled to find exactly what part of the axle is causing the problem, they would have to pay for the time to do so. If the problem is a clicking CV or DOJ, a 2-3 minute diagnosis would be sufficient to tell them which joint is worn. But, as there are many parts that make up each joint it would take much more time to disassemble and measure to determine which parts were worn to the point of being "out of spec" enough to cause the noise. If the axle is quiet, but is transferring vibration, I doubt 2-3 minutes would be enough time for anyone to come to a conclusion as to the cause of the problem. If the problem is fixed by installing a quality axle, no one in their right mind is going to pay extra money for a tear down of the old axle. JMHO, of course.

'04's were not covered under the extended warranty. Strike one. The car had 86k miles (well out of normal warranty). Strike two. But, I wonder if enough people call SOA if things will change. Kind of doubt it. Like the piston slap issue. They started out replacing engines with piston slap, then went to just installing new pistons in the engines, then to only fixing the engines that were still noisy when fully warm, to doing nothing at all. And I still run across late model cars ('00-) with piston slap. Is Subaru doing anything about this anymore? Any way, as of June (I believe) of '03 SOA recommends the use of their cooling system conditioner in ALL their engines. That tells me they aren't so sure the problem is fixed. But they don't seems to willing to fix all the cars that have the problem. Unfortunate situation to be sure.

If there is one thing wrong, none of the codes will clear. So...........In the same area that you are finding the "read memory" connectors for pulling codes, there is a set of green connectors. These are the "test mode" connectors. Connect the green connectors, turn the key on, engine off. You cooling fans, solenoids, relays..........will start cycling on and off. Use a stethoscope, long screw driver to ear or something. Listen to the CPC solenoid to double check to make sure it is working. Should be a nice sharp click on and off. If that is OK then you can turn key off. Disconnect the green connectors. The speed sensor can be tested with the instrument cluster out of the car. As I said it is nothing more than a reed switch. You can connect an Ohm meter across it and turn the speedo by hand. The circuit just opens and closes. Again I have no pics on my computer of the wiring diagrams to post. My FSM is at the shop. Maybe Monday I could take some digital photos of the pertinent info and post them. Or hopefully someone Else will post up some pics.

Yes

Most likely it is leaking in around the tail light. They use butyl (sp?) rubber to seal the tail lights. I usually end up getting a strip of it from a body shop when I need it. Seems to be hard stuff to come by.

Wow, you guys are way ahead of me. I'm still using the hand operated vacuum pump:)

'01 MY auto trans OB's got the A/F ratio sensors that were recalled. Fairly problematic sensor, that causes all kinds of drivability problems.

The brake fluid in the lines and calipers does NOT return to the reservoir. To get fresh fluid to the entire system clean fluid needs to be bleed through the system. Best method is to do as you say. Remove as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible and bleed new through. The more new you bleed through the less old that will be left to contaminate the new.

Pattern failures are a very real thing. If they were not these types of message boards would not thrive as they do. There would be not IATN, Idenaifix, TSB's., etc. When an OE axle is replaced (simply due to a torn boot) with an aftermarket unit of questionable quality...............now all of a sudden there is an obvious annoying vibration that wasn't there before.......................then that axle is replaced with a high quality aftermarket or OEM replacement axle, and the vibration is gone............................. Who is going to take the time or spend the money to disassemble the two axles to see what is different. Not me. I personally, as a shop owner and mechanic specializing in Subaru repair, will switch axle suppliers. There are just some things I don't need a technical explanation for.

Not sure which thread to post in now. But if we are just throwing parts at this thing to get it fixed............. As gary said, check the MAF sensor. The MAF sensors they used in '99 were recalled, so they are a common problem. Normally when they are bad you will get a P0170 or 171 code. I would think if it was OK before the engine swap, that it would be OK imediatly after, but who knows.

Have heard the length theory. Don't know how much difference there would need to be to cause a problem. But is would have to be significant to bottom out the DOJ.

The rear O2 sensor is primarily if not totally for catalyst monitoring, and will not affect drivability like you are experiencing. Should throw a code for O2 heater. Can you look at Amp draw on the heater with your scan tool? What are the fuel trim #'s?

How many miles. Just out of curiosity. I don't work on a lot of cars that are still under warranty. To may people still believe that they have to have service performed at dealer to maintain warranty coverage. So I only have a hand full of customers with '05 and newer Subarus.

Did you install a used CPC solenoid? If so did you test it to see if it works? You can plug the green test mode connectors in, KOEO, and listen to the solenoid to see if it is operating. As said, these cars are funny about clearing any codes if there is still a problem.

To many people have been and still are taking Subaru's word on the head gasket fixes. I insist on doing both on customers cars. But I do both + t-belt, w/p, oil pump R&R to check backing plate, seals, etc., for less than $1600 too. In the end it is the customers car and money though. Basically the same engine in currant MY's. A few changes to engine management. Basically same head gasket (very, very, very slight visitable change, up to '04. Haven't had any '05- heads off).