Stubies Subie

all GM mirror buttons are the same, if it's glued to the windshield, it will work, all the way back to the early 70's real common in the old chevy trucks from 73 to the late 80's? I think. It doesn't even matter what kind of mirror was glued to it. I even had one in my old 74 Vega years ago

here's the sensor I use with mine, it works fine http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/WT5513.oap?pt=02743&ppt=C0033 it's also referred to as an AX92, if you do an ebay search for "ax92" that temp sensor pops up all over the place.

I got me a new window sticker today ....thanks GD

I replaced the fan motor, (thanks GD and Ed) no more blown fuses, and the AC is blowing nice and cold again. simple fix

I'm still losing a little coolant, but keeping the overflow full seems to keep the radiator full, so I've been keeping an eye on the over flow, it seems to go through more coolant when it's real hot out then when it's cool, as long as I keep coolant in the overflow, all seems happy and copacetic, during the summer a gallon of coolant can last me 3,000 miles, so it's not losing much, but probably isn't quite normal either. that's part of the little "bugs" I want to work out of it, but need to wait till I have another means of transportation for work before I have this one fixed properly, there no time right now to have the car "down for repairs" I need it for work. I do have the new/used/old pickup coming at the end of the month though, but I'm sure it's probably going to need some work to I'll be able to leave the car with you for a few days to tinker on and works some bugs out once I come up with another way to get to work.

I'm game to try anything that will push a larger volume of air, I was looking at those aftermarket ones on ebay, and they look like they would push a lot of air in short order. I have to admit, after everything you did to the car with the reseal, new radiator, cooling system filters, auxiliary fan, ect. if there's one thing I can say for that car, it's never had even the slightest hint of a cooling problem, that temp gauge has always run in the low 1/4 percentage of the gauge, while I know that's not the best way to measure the temp, over a period of time, it gives you an idea of what's normal for that particular car and what's not. case in point is the oil pressure gauge, the old one showed no pressure at idle, bumping up to just a tad under half when warmed up and running at freeway speeds, after that sending unit went bad, I put a Bosh unit in it and now it reads right at 1/4 at idle, and about 2/3rds at freeway speeds consistently, which in my mind would be more normal for an oil pressure reading. as it is with the temp readings, in my mind, it read fairly normal, well that is until that darn fan went south. I got a few bugs to still work out but it looks like I'll have a new camping trailer to pull with the old Loyale in about a month or so.

Oh cool, I'm gonna take tomorrow off work so I can fix the car, I'll call you at lunch tonight and see when I can meet up with ed, will bring cash

I really don't understand how a bad fan will cause both those fuses to blow, and cause the AC to quit working, but I've never had a fuse problem before the fan froze up, so I'm sure once I replace the fan, things will be back to normal, I sure do miss the AC, it blew colder then anything I've ever owned, almost to cold, sometimes you had to redirect the vents so it wasn't blowing directly on you.

normally the car runs about about the 1/3rd mark on the temp gauge in the dash (a little below the half way mark) the cooling system flows well, it's got in line filers to keep the coolant clean and free of debris, never had a hint of cooling system problems at all. it was about 105 degrees out when i noticed the problem, I had the AC going, the temp started to rise to about the 2/3rd position on the in dash temp gauge, I pulled over and looked under the hood and noticed that only the auxiliary fan was running which I thought was not normal, at that point I turned off the ac, rolled down the windows and at 60 miles an hours on the freeway with the auxiliary cooling fan running, the temperature quickly dropped back down to within the normal operating range. The Alternator is fine, it's cranking out like it's supposed to, GD just installed it about 2 months ago, it's one of those Nissan 90 amp alternators. the radiator cap is about 2 months old, the radiator and thermostat were replaced with new ones back in November of last year I was going to take GD up on his offer of checking the fan circuit current draw, but I decided to take a look at the fan first and see if I noticed anything out of the ordinary about it, the fan is froze up solid, and won't turn even by hand which leads me to believe that I got a bad fan, other then that, it looks perfectly normal. a quick search of the internet didn't show any fan replacement options for the loyale other then some aftermarket stuff I saw on ebay. I really don't want to buy a used fan, (kinda like buying used light bulbs) but right now it looks like about my only option is to get one out of a wrecking yard.

I was thinking that's what it could be, at one point yesterday, I replaced the fuse for the AC and got it working fine and left the fan fuse blown, when I tried to runt he ac, the car would start to over heat, this was while I was on the freeway doing about 60 mph, but once I turned the AC off, the operating temperature would return to normal so maybe it is in the fan, but why would a bad fan cause the AC to blow a fuse?

It’s been a hot couple of days out here in the Pacific North West, and the AC in my 91 Loyale blows super cold, that is until it blows a fuse. I also notice at about the same time that the right hand radiator cooling fan also quits working. The drivers side electric cooling fan works fine, (that side was the electric conversion I had done when I had the engine resealed) In the picture below, I circled the two fuses that keep blowing in red, one says “FAN” so I assume this is the fan fuse, the other one says “HEAD RH” and I’m assuming that the right side headlight? Does the AC actually feed through the right side headlight circuit? It’s definitely an electrical problem, of which this car has had a few since I bought it, so if I can't figure it out, I’ll take it in and have it fixed, but it shure would be nice to have working AC in this hot weather, and right now I don’t have the funds to go get it fixed.

have you called the insurance commissioner in Salem and filed a complaint yet? that will cut the insurance company off at the pass even before you head to court. I've been through that before, had a 73 celica that was completely restored, took all the trim, windows (except the wind shield) door handles lights ect. off the car to have it painted, spent 2,000 on the paint job, and driving home from the body shop I got hit, and the insurance said it was a totaled incomplete car and wanted to give me something like 800 bucks for it.

that's an interesting concept, can you post pictures so we can see what it looks like?

I like how you were able to mount it to a stock mirror bracket, that was a good move.

all I want it to do is keep the rocks out of those stud holes in the tire, hopefully it does that

I’m been looking for a trashy set of tires I can use strictly for off road, I really don’t want to take my nice street tires (That I haven’t got yet) and trash them by taking them off road, since the 13 inch steel wheels are a dime a dozen I figured it I got a trashy set of tires mounted on a set of rims, I’d have something to take off road, and if I beat the tires up, or blow one out, no big deal. Well, one of the guys I work with gave me a nice set of studded snow tires last week, so I was thinking that would make a nice set of trashy off road tires, all I have to do is pull the studs out. I’m sure there’s quite a few on here that have pulled studs at some point in their lives, I know I have, but not exactly for this reason. Pulling studs leaves you with a nice big gapping hole in the tire, close to 100 of those holes per tire as a matter of fact, and those holes leave the potential of collecting rocks and causing flats, so I got to wondering is there was something we could do with the holes once the studs were pulled out so they wouldn’t collect rocks. That question lead me to a google search, and here’s what I found: It seems that the rock crawler guys and the cross country adventurers really like shoe goo: The cross country off roaders say that shoe good will save a 500 dollar tire: when it gets a cut or an abrasion, they doctor it up with shoo goo and they claim it holds out just fine, and the rock crawler guys are saying the same thing …..so I had to go buy some and try it out for myself. I’m filling the holes in the old snow tires as I pull the studs out, it dries over night, it’s not hard work, just time consuming, and I got plenty of time, so I’m in no hurry here: I’m thinking that if it works for those guys, it should work for a cheap guy like me. Time will tell how it holds up, but I’m gonna give it a shot, at least it looks like it’s gonna dry hard enough to keep the rocks out of those holes. I’m not a die hard off roader, but I do like exploring those North West mountain logging and fire roads.

some cars we're meant to be lifted, and some weren't ...... this one here is a weren't, although my brother would probably like it, he's all into that V8 Z-Car stuff

a Loyale will do 60?

This is the one I ran in my Jeep, I like it better then the one I have in the Loyale, but only because it was easier to service. http://www.ebay.com/itm/230578141169 and this is the one that I run in the Loyale, much cheaper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400281142813 I also run this heater core filter. http://www.dearbornclassics.com/filter-heater-core-gano-5-8-ford-and-mercury-1957-1979.html I’ve been running cooling system filters in my cars and trucks for at least 8 years now, and I swear by the things. Clean them out every few months, and it keeps all that junk from circulating through your cooling system and fouling up your water pump, heater core and radiator. There’s so much debris in an unfiltered cooling system that when you first install the filters, you will find that you have to clean them out every couple of hours of run time until the majority of the debris are out of the system, then just service them every few months. I have no cooling system issues with the Loyale what-so-ever, the heater blots HOT, the engine runs cool, even with the AC blasting on a hot day while stuck in traffic. I installed the filters at the same time that GD resealed the engine, I refused to even fire it up until the filters were in place, and the first few times I cleaned them out, I got huge chunks of gasket material, some chunks of metal like slag that had broken lose from the casting process, stuff that looked like hair or fur, got no idea where that came from. The point is I was able to stop all that stuff from circulating through the system and plugging up the new water pump, or the new radiator, And the heater on this car has to be the hottest blowing heater I’ve ever had in anything. the Tefba's you have to buy off ebay, because they are made in Austraila and imported to the US, Gano is made in California and you can order them driect from Gano for about 35 bucks a pop. I'll probably eventually swap out my Gano for Tefba when money allows.

that's my problem at the moment, I spent myself broke buying gadgets for the car, and now I have to wait a while before I can afford more ...er, stuff. heck it's to a point now that my grass is growing and my mower is feeling neglected .... but I'm sure having fun with my little Loyale

here's on way to get a mirror with the two line read-out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/180807260366 that's the cheapest I've seen on ebay ($28 shipped), and it comes with the power cable, but you would have to go find the temperature sensor at the wrecking yard, but the sensor is pretty well universal so it should be easy to find. just a thought for anyone looking for the two line readout with temperature and Compass. I was also reading that the wiring you want is going to be 20 awg (gauge) and some suggested trailer wiring because it's 5 conductor, which would be perfect. I think for mine I'm going to wire it in, in two parts, when I'm at the wrecking yard, I'll find a male and female plug set out of something that is 5 conductor, and will wire one end up to the 2 sensor wires, ground, backup lights, ignition hot. then I can solder the other side of the plug to the mirrors wire harness, that should make for a really clean instillation.

you just gotta get out and look, it wasn't only the tahoe they came in, you can also find them in the Yukons, and the ford explorers, and a bunch of other cars and trucks. I think the two line is a newer model the the single line, so that may be in a 2000 and newer truck, maybe a Tahoe? or possibly a Yukon. I'm going to scout around at the wrecking yard as soon as I get a chance I've never accidentally ripped a mirror off the glass, I've had them fall off due to heat, but that was just a simple matter of gluing it back on. I didn't get mine permanently wired in this weekend like I planned, just to much running around, but I have been using it and really like it.

no, it won't matter if your borderline between zones. I'd set it by driving in a circle rather then picking zone from the menu.

that's a really good idea, pull the compass and temp out off the mirror and mount that stuff up where the clock goes I planned on getting a lot more done this weekend then I did, but I did mnage to get the oil and filter changed, I also bought new molded heater core hoses and got those re-routed and away from the clutch pickle fork, so now the clutch moves very smoothly I pulled both cooling system filters and cleaned them out, 6,000 miles after the reseal, I'm still picking up debris in the filters from the cooling system, the heater core filter was just about completely plugged up, even after cleaning it out 5 or 6 times over the last 6,000 miles, the radiator filter looked pretty good, not a lot of debris in it this time but there was a little. I'm really glad for those filters, I've managed to clean all that debris out of the cooling system, with out the filters, that junk would have been plugging up my new radiator and heater core again. I'd rather pay 30 bucks for a filter I can clean out then to pay a 100 bucks to replace a plugged up radiator, I don't understand why more people arn't using those filters

I removed the old mirror, cut the mirror off and put the bracket back up there so it looks like it belongs, it came out looking very clean.