bluedotsnow

you must not drive in the snow much?!?

Still waiting on an opportunity to check the line pressure as this is out of my abilities. Can any mechanics who use all data tell me if the clutch replacement process requires verifying the drive hub is attached and will not spin? does the process also require checking of the line pressure to the clutch pack as described by GeneralDisorder? I'm trying to verify that winters auto did do everything right as I would hate to cast blame on someone who does not deserve it.

w0rd that spacer fix looks interesting! do you know if the ecu monitors the rear 02 for anything other than cat efficiency? I know the front has a lot to do with gas millage does the rear have any part in the ecu fuel calculations?

yes tried unplugging the TCU but I only drove the car I did not have time to put it on jack stands. I did not feel any binding what so ever. if a diff like mine (4eat) was not being powered but just rotating along with the road could there be an underlying problem that is not detectable without torque being applied through its drive shaft?

did you also replace the catalytic converter with the sensor(s)? which sensor did you replace? front or rear? is your cat single or dual sensor?

I keep blowing a p0420 code from my ecu, my scanner tells me its from (bank 1) cat inefficiency. my car is a 96 lego and has 2 O2 sensors. does anyone know if the (bank 1) is referring to the front or rear O2 sensor? my scanner refers to the front as (bank 1) and rear as (bank 2) in monitoring modes.

I asked the dealership to verify 10% power was going to the rear since then I did not have 4 jack stands only 2. I put it on 4 jack stands in d or 1st, 1st has no effect as it should lock the rear more. so if both of the vss are fine the tcu still wont output a specific code if the rear does not get drive?

rofl I think my friend's diff is going out on his impreza obs 5mt. he replaced both wheel bearings and still has rear end noise/vibration.

no never I thought I might have felt some very slight binding a few days before installing the new parts but I think it was just extra line pressure from limp mode causing what I thought was torque bind, felt it only in the steering wheel. when driving, the car would corner fine and not lurch around as with actual TB but it was slightly harder to turn the car and would not idle itself in a circle. one of the things that really threw me from the start about this car was the rear diff... my first car was a real FrontWD impreza with completely independent rear. when I started driving the lego I think I confused the presence of its non powered rear diff with full AWD. again I was not pushing it and under the impression my inspection mechanic had verified it had at least functional AWD. I have ridden in many manual subaru's but have never been carted around in a 4eat.

sweet I though it was about that simple. very pleased I don't have to replace my rear diff other than when I want to upgrade to an LSD. I know I'm almost beating a dead horse but what could happen if say one or two of the gears on one side had teeth that were ground down from extended use?

I will check the line pressure ASAP is this something you have to pull the exhaust and drive line for? can I get to it with out taking anything apart with the car on jack stands? I don't think they used to scotch bright rotto resurfacing tool on the housing under the solenoid but they did clean it and cleaned it with a razor blade. I have noticed how tiny some of the ports are especially directly under the solenoid. they did use the rotto tool on the other gasket areas around the tail housing gasket. I have been looking for a flow diagram for just the solenoid, if anyone has one or knows where one is located I would love too see it. I know this is a long shot but basically a picture of where and how atf flows in and out ,ie what channels carry atf in, which channels are the dump off or fwd channels, and which send atf to the clutch pack. many thanks my mind is more at rest... and I'm more determined than depressed for a change!

I put isheno head gaskets on that came with an engine rebuild kit from world pack and am very pleased, so far. has anyone had problems with these? I only go to autozone, oreillys, napa if I really need something simple no one else has and only for temporary purposes. example my mom snapped her timing belt and having an interference engine we went to napa got the cheapest one and put it on to test the engine it worked so we got a world pack or volvo belt, swapped, and she was good to go. my wake up call about napa was one day I was looking for an oil filter and I asked about there napa line of parts.... I asked about the top of that line and was handed the box to look at. the box did not say where it was made but the filter sure did MEXICO. so there top of the line is made in mexico.... hm.... I was running lubromoly from Germany at the time in my old impreza and didn't think it was right to put German oil through a Mexican filter, JMO LOL. I have also heard that anything concerning the water cooling system should be subaru genuine ie thermostat, gaskets, even the coolant. I am currently running off brand antifreeze but put the subaru coolant conditioner with the magic sealant. I even have an official dealer radiator cap. I have to say from what I ordered from http://www.subaruparts.com I would recommend them highly. all parts were in great condition and were delivered very promptly. I saved over $100 on duty c solenoid, clutch pack, and gaskets over the dealer price.

I will check if the rotation gets transferred to the drive line. I'm glad it seems that rear diff failure is horribly evident because I have had to drive it around and it seems to spin consistently with no noise or vibration. I was told there are mechanical parts like levers in the diff could some of this have stopped functioning due to abuse and not cause noise or vibration just none operation?

I received the solenoid with valve attached it has a gasket already in place between the main housing and a metal plate and an additional gasket used for mounting to the housing. I though no voltage caused a bind? hence why when the duty c fails it causes bind and eventually damage to the drive line. when it is energized more it causes more front wheel bias. is there any way to test the line pressure from the duty c to the clutch packs? are there any other hard parts that could have teeth missing and or gone? this is a high mileage Subaru

I have a 96 lego l 4eat. I think you do understand or are at least trying to and I really appreciate it! essentially if I put the car on jack stands with the car in p or off I can rotate one of the rear wheels and see the opposite rear tire spinning slightly less rotation than the tire I'm have my hand on. if I then go to the other side of the car and spin the opposite tire by hand the tire I was at first does not move. I can't remember exactly which is right and left that effect or doesn't effect.

a friend helped me do this job recently. I ended up getting a full valve job because I had ordered the full engine rebuild kit. I had to get the heads machined so I figured why not. Please forgive me if my syntax is off a bit I'm just getting into this field. when we did it we took the small cylindrical parts that are fed by the oil journals on the rocker arms out. submerged them in oil along with the rest of the assembly and compressed each one to allow oil to enter then closed them under oil to lock it in right before assembly and instillation. we also stored all parts in oil. I was told that if oil drains and is not replenished before assembly it can contribute to dry starts and or oil not flowing properly. is this an interference or non interference engine? did you clean and or machine the block? what kind of replacement head gaskets did you?

can anyone tell me if on a 4eat rear diff if when I spin each tire should it spin the other? one will spin the other ie right will spin the left but left wont spin the right. this is on jack stands by hand.

you missed the ITS NOT LIKE before I'M GETTING BINDING. I should have said when the car is in drive and on jack stands...... I can spin the shaft freely......... pulled tcu drove, NO BINDING the only difference was the ABS light illuminated from the start. and of course 3rd and reverse were the only gears.

I have read about how the trans operates the clutches with line pressure and clutch engagement. I'm nearly positive the clutch system is operating properly as no mil lights turn on that are not supposed to or when they are not supposed to. PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong but the clutch engagement does nothing if the drive hub is not connected to the trans ie sheered or snapped. I have checked the ATF no metal shavings.

so your saying a problem from the trans could NOT cause lack of awd????

all dash lights work properly FWD fuse puts car in FWD mode with illuminated FWD mode light. NOW I have a BRAND NEW solenoid in the car so I KNOW its good being a subaru part from a subaru dealer. after installing the new solenoid the mil for the at oil temp stopped flashing and would not output any codes via the TCU handshake and mil flash procedure. since I watched the parts go in I know there is not problem with the clutch packs it has to be the drive hub not getting power from the trans..... its not like I'm getting binding of the rear end its completely loose and I can spin the drive shaft while the car is on jack stands INDEPENDENTLY OF THE FRONT wheels. Thats something I asked to be checked but was NOT. all axles are intact as well as clean oil in the center diff. the jack rump roast or mechanic who helped me buy this car failed to tell me the awd system was ************ed I paid him to evaluate the car and make sure it was at least repairable and he apparently works on subaru's all the time at a reputable shop. all he did was look under the car and see all the part casings and said "it should work". I should have at least lifted the car up in the rear to check that the back axles did not more independently of the front.... I guess you live get ripped off then learn....

ok now to the relevant stuff thanks guys! car only exhibited code 24 before replacing the solenoid NO ecu or tcu codes will be output through a scanner or tcu light flash procedure like an old obd1 after replacing the solenoid. scanner check I own one. drive shaft will NOT SPIN but seems to move with the car as it rolls along the road. no awd since I bought the car I asked a mechanic to do an inspection on the car and awd and he said "looks good everything is there" concerning a visual inspection of the cars undercarriage ie diveshaft diff.... The when I found out the clutch pack needed to be measured I realized this was getting expensive! if I were going to not pay lots of storage fees an a mechanic i would have to have parts same day. albany subaru was the only local place that had any clutch plates in stock and they only had 3.3mm. after talking with albany (who would not have measured), subaru of america and subaruparts.com I learned that the 3.3mm set was the ONLY set subaru of america recomended for my car. I understand why you measure.... the ones we took out and the new ones that went it are identical, 3.3mm as subaru of america recommends... I have checked the duty c signal from the tcu not a problem. I have disconnected voltage to the solenoid hoping for torque bind and or rear wheel or even rear driveshaft movement, NOTHING! I'm going to start with the front vss that seems plausible..... if I unplug it and start the car will power be transferred to the rear? should I get a spare out of picknpull? I'm on a tight budget especially considering how much money I just wasted on parts I did not need and non exploratory service.

look I started off this thread in the wrong way please forgive me I should have only asked about my car and its AWD or there lack of. I do not mean to insult anyone but I'm asking for help all I'm getting from this forum is tough ************. I did not contradict myself they provided me a list of parts they wanted to replace I asked if any other parts of the AWD system could need attention in any way they said no. again I asked are you sure, I need to know all costs that COULD be associated with a repair like this. they reassured me it was just the parts on the list. I would have had the dealer do the repair and exploratory service had I known they could not do a real diagnostic without taking apart the tail section. I would have been much more inclined to take my car back to them if they had talked with me about what other parts might need to be replaced in order for the awd system to function properly. I already planned to replace the solenoid and was going to them to see if I should or not. I feel I should have been advised of all costs of parts as I asked to be and was denied. how can I ask a shop to do work I don't have money for? if I did that they would take my vehicle after doing the work. I needed to know how much money to have before proceeding. up front they should have told me to come back when I had several thousand dollars and that a "diagnostic" would not render the results I required.

BTW one of my first self diagnostics was to use a multimeter to measure voltage of the signal going to the solenoid. DUH that's why I asked them to verify that JUST the duty solenoid was limiting AWD. I didn't own 4 jack stands to test the drive shaft functionality myself.

What would cause the drive hub in the transfer clutch not to spin. just the spline shaft or could it be deeper in the trans?