bluedotsnow

hay guys aside from rear wheel drive being a "petrosexual" must! it leaves room for one other handy thing that recently came out, front wheel electric kits. just imagine having a hybrid system on the front of the car with regenerative breaking and a light weight capacitor to store extra electricity. just remember you can't get a million break horse out of any conventional car fuel but you can out of a really beefy electric motor and with less lag oh I'm sorry NO lag. talk about new age AWD! just need to design a control system that integrated both seamlessly I give it 5 years.......

maybe is NOT a word I like when I comes to motor vehicles! do you know how many thousandths of a inch the spec is for these heads? well I checked mine and they were out of spec! I also had the machine shop I took them to check them in front of me and they were not horrible but not on the border of good either. I will look up the spec again and post it. forgot to mention the timing case was melted on one side before heads got done the first time so yes they needed it. any info or direction towards info I'm looking for would be greatly appreciated.

well I don't see any bubbles in the coolant or any dreaded mixtures. I will check for positive exhaust pressure in the radiator tomorrow when I start it but think I'm out of the woods I took the car on a several hundred mile trip recently and it was fine. I'm almost positive the packaging said multilayer gasket and there were several layers to be seen after the drunk mechanic smashed/ripped through some layers then dropped the gasket.... it still worked.... I'm set to do the job again if I need to I just hope I don't have to get the heads machined yet again.....

I ************ on x-brand parts..... the ishino kit was made in japan and ordered through world pack, I was told these were the best I could get through world pack. its overheated twice once due to a leaking bypass hose and once because of a blown radiator.... I was terrified I blew the head gaskets the second time but after a cold then hot compression test everything came out positive PSI that held pressure for at least 1 minute. after driving it around I don't feel any difference in the acceleration and am loosing no coolant. I did feel sorta guilty I had to use a spectra radiator because it was sunday.... ug pepboys.... oh well. yes dealer for parts not for service I'm set if you want stealership service you better have 3 times your bluebook to just hand them in case they ask and don't ask questions because that will only complicate things, I guess you just have to pray..... I'd rather do it my damn self now..... praying is for the weak minded and oblivious. so I went to the picknpull today to get some hold hard answers without opening my car up I was able to get everything apart relatively easily but am left with questions. in addition to asking on this thread I will be hitting my FSM and other threads to find my answer. if a larger pressure plate is needed in the MTP clutch pack will there be play between the large snap ring and the clutches twords the back of the driven hub? where do you take the measurement to determine the size of pressure plate needed? if light grooving is present in the drive hub can it cause the clutches not to engage? I have only read that it can cause lock up because they get stuck many thanks in advance I wish I had come here before even calling the stealership. generally they aren't bad but I got one who did not care at all about me or my car and would often say well its got 250k..... and nothing else ..... these people just want to sell cars and parts not help people i'm going to go talk to fairfield subaru about what they would have done and might still take albany to small claims court.... but first I'm going to fix my car, also so I can give an accurate review of winters auto which I will be posting on yelp....

ishino gasket kit bought the whole engine kit used used half... on bad advise, should have gotten head only kit and put extra $40 twords a water pump while the timing belt was off. its only rattling x.x

fairfield subaru parts department came through and gave me information that albany did not. mtp clutch pressure plate part numbers for 96 lego trans code abaa 3.3mm 31593aa151 3.7mm 31593aa161 4.1mm 31593aa171 4.5mm 31593aa181

lol nipper I focused on something I know how to do today brakes! after an oil change and tire rotation I decided to take a look at my calipers and rear drum for my e-brake. I think when I took it into the dealer the binding I was feeling was brake related. I backed off the parking brake and reset the caliper piston, it seemed to help now each tire spins the opposite. now for some forum reading about caliper rebuilds....

I' no expert but blue smoke is oil.... maybe its a leaky cylinder ring.....

after speaking with BAR they were sympathetic to my plight but technically could not find anything that albany subaru did wrong..... LEGALLY..... since I signed the order that did not describe all the problems I was having and all the information I provided to the service writer, they did the bare minimum they could do and pushed me out the door. after speaking with several other dealers they said they would have written up a work order for an inspection of the tail housing which runs around $500. I do remember albany saying something about an inspection but when I asked for more information on parts that could need to be replaced they changed the paperwork to reflect all the parts for a total of almost $1200 with $200 more labor than the inspection... I was asking for informational purposes only and still wanted the inspection quote. they could have hand written all the part numbers like they ended up doing on the inspection paperwork.... had I walked out of there with a quote for inspection only and knowledge of parts I might need to replace I likely would have gone back to them instead of winters auto. winters auto did not inspect anything other than the new pressure plate being the same size as the old one. so they did it wrong but I can't hold them accountable for many reasons. I am resolved to do this myself this time around so I'm not spending more on labor than parts. I put in a 3.3mm pressure plate on advice or SUBARU OF AMERICA they said it was the original equipment and was the only part guarantied NOT to cause damage to my trans no matter what. nice albany subaru told me NOT TO DRIVE the vehicle because I could cause damage the the trans in its current state if the failed solenoid prevented atf from draining off causing rear wheel lock or torque bind. but hello I asked them (not on paper) to use there select monitor to verify 10% of the drive was actually making it to the rear vehicle speed sensor on the tail housing. they did not do this and erred on the side of caution telling me to not drive it even though they had NOT checked that the clutch was transferring ANY power to the rear. had I known that I would have taken an entirely different course of action. will update once I get parts and post pics of rebuild I guess the upside is I can grind off any grooving of the hubs and not get charged rack time to do it. fairfield subaru was nice enough to provide part numbers for all the pressure plates something albany was NOT willing to do and could have done to make this process alot easier for me... but then again they are there to make money regardless of whether it helps the customer or not.

I don't know about piston slap I have a non interference ej22. in my old ej18 I used lucas oil stabilizer and lubromoly. I'd have to say that using lubromoly on a regular basis is not the best idea because of price and gas millage. I did find that running this combo every 4 or 5 oil changes really helped it run smoothly. lubromoly is a German half synthetic oil that contains small amounts of molybdenum. in the later ej engines this element was used in the cylinder jackets and other parts of the engine for reduced friction, its also used in gun barrels. anyone else used lubromoly? http://www.lubromoly.com

thanks for all the info I will go that route when I need to do that job, thankfully it seems it was just the radiator! after much tinkering with compression tests, thermostat test, and a new radiator Its no longer overheating now back to the tail section to figure out WTF I don't have awd, more to come. has anyone had a water pump that the bladed broke away from the shaft going to the timing belt? so the impeller was free spinning? this will only render overheating on the freeway after long periods? any chance a bad water pump could cause a radiator to blow out? the radiator was old maybe original so I'm not to worried about it but want to cover all my bases, my first car's cooling system ran flawlessly after its first overhaul so I'm only now growing accustomed to constantly checking it.

that's a given! oem water pump and belt at least! can anyone recommend a good bearing kit 2.2 sohc, I can't afford the dealer bearings..... x.x I was looking at a goodyear kit with all green bearings! all you need with those is a clear timing cover

my water pump just went out I think..... at least I have seen this done enough, with my fsm and how to videos I should have a new one in after I get paid...... check was due in 4 days ago AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

I did not see any ware in that area I think I have a picture of it and will post it up soon

96 lego 2.2 estate with remand heads and fresh gaskets so no gasket issues! IMO an estate is better and cheaper than a hotel room when in tahoe x.x I will be going back to the shop that did the work soon!

I was told that driving in FWD mode WILL damage the trans. in its current state I'm only getting about 24mpg freeway.... so bad fuel economy does not help me save money.... I will be moving into a place I might not be able to work on my car to the extent I can now ie apt complex.... I have some limited resources available to me now that likely wont be in the future so I'm trying to get it fixed asap. I would drive around on the fwd if I knew it would not kill my trans if I started saving money for a new trans and it went out before I was ready to replace it I would be in a much worse situation....

how do you adjust the clearance of the clutches? is this done with a different size pressure ring or some procedure of tightening/turning the clutches inside the hubs? is the output seal your speaking of behind the drive basket closer to the center of the trans or is it the output from the rear or the tail housing to the drive shaft?

I guess its possible that the old clutch pack wore the casing away and needs a larger one subaru of america however told me they would only warranty a 3.3mm clutch pack as that's the original part and the only size they recommend for my lego... I did get a chance to look at the output shaft and seal ring and they looked undamaged. I don't see any atf leaking anywhere!

I'm only really interested in a rebuilt trans.... I tried to go the full course with buying a new clutch pack, solenoid..... but that rendered me still no awd, no flashing at temp light anymore but that's no condolence having spent a little less than $700 and still not having awd... if the final drive is all stripped out will the drive hub spin freely? is there any way to know if parts are blown out while replacing the clutch packs?

I was thinking of one with a 5 year warranty I'm nearly homeless after going through this whole ordeal of buying this car... so If I do it once I likely wont have the opportunity to do it again assuming I would be paying for labor to swap the trans in and out each time.... do you know of any who offer installation packages that include a labor warranty in case its a bad trans?

has anyone replaced a trans from automotix, a-1 parts depot, or any other salvage/re-manufacture company? I don't want to order an AWD trans just to find out its neutered to fwd but runs and drives fine.... I asked a b.a.r rep and he said NONE of those companies test..... I tried calling some today but did not get through, hold for 5 calls over 2 hours and they closed before I got to speak with anyone.

there are laws that make them do that kind of stuff..... and people only fix those issues because unless you have an unscrupulous smog tech they will not overlook a check engine light. that's going to be a pretty greasy palm if you ask me! I'd rather take measures to prevent it rather than replace sensors and parts. but if I were a little old lady or someone not able to get under a car it makes sense that its there. we forget cars are made for the masses that don't even open their own engine bay....

lol like I said in my other thread about no awd I just bought the car.... the diff oil that's in it was spotless with some shavings but who's to know what happened 100k prior did someone abuse this car? I paid what I though was a reliable source to check the car out before I bought it and he kinda let me down. I'm learning and plan on doing it myself from here on out.

have you checked all the orings? when I bought my car there as one oring that was improperly seated thanks to my mechanic checking for pressure in the system. I bought some r134, recharged and ran the system, this rendered hissing and an obvious clue to where the leak was coming from. after a few bucks on a pack of orings and a swap system was ready to go!

please remember these facts. I just bought the car. it needed head gaskets at the time I was unable to test the AWD function untill after heads were rebuilt the car was sitting for a year or so before I got to it and was actually missing the fusible link. someone could have been in the trans way before I bought it found a blown out shaft cleaned it all up put it back together and let it set. I feel a slight slip when I step on the gas not in the front as the tires start to move but it feels like where it should grab in the final drive for the rear end there is slippage. I thought this was something subaru would address it did pass a drivability test but they likely did not take it out of limp mode to test and only assumed 10% drive was going to the rear and never actually checked it.