bluedotsnow

ALTROM CHEMICALS FTW! www.lubromoly.com I used to use their 15w40 in my impreza and after using their "oil saver" product for leaky piston rings and an oil change with their 10w40 with mos2 anti friction, separately, I am very impressed! lets pause and remember what molybdenum is used for in current production vehicles.... and..... cylinder walls, gun barrels.... GOOD STUFF. I do find that after using heavy oils AND additives it does sludge up the engine. I would go on but I'm going to go read up on the oil separator plate as I'm hoping thats where my leak is coming from instead of the rear main.

do you have an after market air filter? like a k&n that allowed more air flow? I have a K&N stock box air filter that allows more air flow than a tru stock air filter. I had noticed a slight improvement initially but then it faded and recently my car felt sluggish even after a nice oil change with lubromoly. then I filled up with premium and WOW it goes like its in FWD restored the head into headrest pull I'm used to. at your next fill up try using a higher octane fuel, please let us know what kind of fuel and air filter you a running I'm curious since this fixed my flat spot problem. always glad to help!

check out http://opposedforces.com/parts/ great parts reference and they delineate between USA and Europe.

I did this to my impreza's steelies. driving around on salted roads makes them look like @#$% so I used caliper paint to give them a protective layer and I must say it helps prevent build up especially on the inside in addition to preventing rust. plus at the car wash I don't have to use "engine and wheel cleaner" with the caliper paint the grime comes right off with water. BTW hubcaps are totally against my religion ;P

[quote name=Nice rims!...:-\..Just kidding. Okay that was mean. I apologize. I really need some sleep.[/quote] those are the best rims! they are even ceramic coated ;P I'm keeping them until I can properly outback my car ie struts, 15" rims, dual piston brakes....

does this qualify me for the trash wagon class? happy 4th all F@#% Winters auto

well ideally but I don't have the resources to replace a rear main.... ATM. for some people its the only option I don't use it all the time and plan on doing a drain, fill, and run with light weight oil then replace with regular oil and drive.

OMG they made spoilers for the lego wagons and most are HIDEOUS! your sedan does look good with that spoiler its a little lower than the stock one though isn't it?

I'm just going to say psychologist! if you really want to get her thinking of the cars independent systems then download a Factory Service Manual and show her! owners manual hypnotize users into thinking there car is an organic whole, IMO. BTW is it an 4eat or 5mt?

win on checking the oil regularly, its priceless! if possible mildly pressure wash the underside of the block and valve cover gaskets, then a few days later check for fresh oil spots. do this with the engine running and be mind full of the spark plug wells and other system that can be affected by high pressure water like vacuum hoses. lucas oil stop leak and oil stabilizer are good products to use if you have to, sticking to one brand of products is usually best. valve cover gaskets are super easy but if the oil is coming from the timing cover or rear main then it gets pricey. that being said a slow leak that just ever so often gives off a smell but no smoke is not going to cause much of a problem. if you let it go it will but small stuff is what the stop leak products are made for! your not going to stop a leak from a gasket that's completely blown out. my 96 lego leaks a bit of oil on the exhaustion Y but I have been using lucas stop leak and its gotten alot better. this got worse when I put a knn air filter on it blow by at 250k+ miles is a B but I'm hoping some engine restore product will help. no blue smoke. all that said I HATE OVER SALES!

with all the temp change my car goes through glue for a heavy mirror is just silly. and anyway if you can find ANY way to mount anything without glue its ALWAYS the best option! thread locker not counting.

stock 95 lego mirrors work! stock 93 impreza mirrors wont. I'm guessing it was a generation change and not a model difference. every subaru rear view I have seen mounts to the roof with the same 3 screws I had to use an impreza mirror in my legacy because when I bought the car it was missing. I guess it is pertinent to keep old parts

yes that is what I did stock lego arm with female ball socket on gentex mirror with male ball joint. driving around today I realized there was to much slack in the joint so after one layers of duct tape on the inside of the plastic spacer from the stock lego and two on the outside it finally held fast over bumpy roads and lots of bass. this small plastic spacer and padding is CRITICAL to it staying in place. otherwise it will fall limp and give you a nice view of your car's interior. pics to come

this is an EA engine? I take it SUUUPER sick! installed new "smart" mirror details here, not so plug and play http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1118842#post1118842 forgive my lame posts I'm considering projects like this as therapy for my mild PTSD caused by winters auto. they screwed up bad, lied about it, told me they wanted more money to fix it, lied about refund, refused refund after I had fixed problem with 4eat tail section myself. currently undergoing B.A.R. review

rofl my first attempt was just not going to do. Ethernet cable works perfectly for extending the compass if needed say for installing just the screen somewhere in the dash. after analyzing the ball joint/arm on the gentex and the two stock Subaru mirrors I have I was able to use a stock second gen (95-96) legacy mirror arm on the gentex mirror by opening the mirror case and stacking washers with a longer than stock screw, don't forget the lock washers. this moves the ball joint away from the housing giving enough room for the very angled subaru arm to work with the over sized plastic housing of the gentex. I wired this to the map light and soon was reminded that it is wired directly to the battery, keys out mirror on. so I installed a button switch to cut power if desired, pics later it was dark by then. when I bought my lego it had no rear view so I installed the one from my 93 impreza it has worked untill now but was not compatible in any way with the gentex even after modification. the angle on the ball joint was all wrong, it (93) stuck straight up from the top of the mirror.

if its fluctuating more than the center icon than you still have an issue....did you test the thermostat in boiling water? is your radiator cap OEM? those never hurt either. PLEASE go get some subaru coolant conditioner!!!! its made for the 2.5 engines and there head gasket "tendencies" it should only cost you $2 from the dealer and has metal flakes that seal off small head gasket problems before they get large. at worst it wont do anything at best it could keep your head gaskets from failing completely, subaru recommends using it with every coolant change. http://www.fcpimport.com/products/subaru-oem-coolant-system-conditioner-soa635071 I have had my share of coolant wowes with my 96 lego:popcorn: best of luck hope at least some of this helps

I went picknpulling today for a compass mirror, of all the cars a Chrysler leberon had one intact all the ford explorer's were pulled there were 5 or more 99's! all gone! I don't care about the dimming mirror itself so I gutted it and was charged significantly less than what they wanted for the mirror (with electronics). I'm going to mount it up just above the center vents, pics to come hopefully tonight.

how to on ball joints! jack up hub whack control arm after removing crown nut. most of the time a hammer isn't even needed reverse to re install.

is your thermostat upside down? lol water pumps never hurt

you forgot to say get a kit MADE IN JAPAN!!!! if you just want to replace the belt at least inspect the bearings, take them off, hold the center and spin the outer portion if its noisy at all replace! a friend had something similar happen one of his bearings had a jacket come apart inside if itself and it stripped several teeth off the belt at a stop light, LOL.

when I saw my first ripped boot I was all set to just replace the boot! but after driving on it and having it fail only a month or two after it first ripped I can see why its better to just replace the whole thing instead of just the boot. mine failed because I was driving in full Front wheel drive much more so than the car is designed for thanks to an rump roast hat shop owner. but still if the boot goes the joint is not far behind. and when re booting you have to make sure to get ALL old grease dirt and water out when a new one is so easy to install.

ROFL when money allows I'm going to "home de pot" and making my own plastic ABS filter i swear that's what the tefba is! thanks for the info!

swizzle I actually do have 14 on my car so this is another mod I'm going to have to wait on. but when I do it I think I'm going to get the whole shebang I have seen people drop them in the junk yard axle, hub, strut, control arm in one piece.

outbacks and stock use different CV axles too! the difference I believe is in articulation. or maybe its just a production date thing check out opposedforces.com oh on junk yard ED if the trans has been pulled and there isn't anything to hold the trans side of a cv axle enabling you to crack the axle nut just take the spindle and hub or don't even try! if you have trouble with your car's axle nuts there is a point a few hours in where you need to take a deep breath and just know you need to replace the whole hub, I had this moment a few days in..... and its really not that hard at all. sometimes they just get stuck a friend got his axle nut off but the damn thing still refused to come out of the hub.... USE ANTI-SEIZE!!!!!

if I take the dual calipers from an outback for my lego L 2.2 will the ABS system be adequate or will I need to swap the whole system from the outback?