bluedotsnow

YES one piece and two piece should be swappable, I was having a conversation with my roomie/mechanic about that he said that its just the housing that differs. wire sockets and mount points are the same so you can swap them around. my goal is to fit up impreza head lights from around 98-99 and use the turn signal from the two piece. I like glass headlights! mmmm fabrication!

a friend has a 2000 impreza rs while working on his heads he damaged one of the lifter lash adjustment screws and we have some lifters that could be be compatible but I'm not sure. his exhaust side is marked with an a1-1 and ours is marked with an a2-2 they look identical does anyone know about the differences in these? Thanks in advance.

+2 for the phase 1 ej's one for being non interference and another one for NOT having molybdenum cylinder jackets... part of the phase 2 upgrade was molybdenum cylinder walls this was great initially but is softer and wares much more quickly.... less 300k cars unless you like swapping engines. in japan this makes tons of scene because of their laws, is it 20k and the engine is swapped for a fresh one? I know its something like that they can't use the engines after a certain distance driven. I maintain that if you want to use molybdenum in your engine get altrom imports MOS2 engine oil additive. just hypothesizing but with steel jackets the blow by should leave enough of this additive to retain some benefits of the molybdenum plus it coats all bearings with a protective film better than oil.

whilst rooting around in there you might as well replace the water pump bypass hose its much smaller than the other radiator hoses and is tucked up above the thermostat housing this small hose almost cost me a valve/head job but the 2.2 was resistant and I didn't get it to hot mine only leaked from a small crack made by the hose clamp holding it on.

IMO a 96 2.2l was the best older year/model combo very few head gasket problems and its the last year of the phase 1 non interference engines! non interference = no piston valve collision if timing belt breaks. edmonds.com reliability reviews have nothing bad to say about those I bought mine at 250k and I'm over 292k now with minor problems that seem to become major after others muck it up/ give me false information....

its not to hard just a few 10mm ( I believe) bolts and a sticky rubber gasket that gets everywhere around the light I'd be willing to guess the gasket is what went on yours plus its likely cracked somewhere they don't fill up from no where.... before removing spray a bunch of water with a hose then take a look at the bulb service compartment to check for moisture.... I have replaced these and its not to hard. just make sure the replacement has a gasket or you RTV it in place!

pics of tie rods waiting to go in only one for now and a new cheap boot;... :/ I don't think this looks right rubbing pics to follow!

anyone know what size wrench I need for the inner tie rod? only one side has play.....

ROFL no no I don't want to put any blame where it is not due on the other hand I like bringing to light automotive incompetency on a shops side, I have been through enough to know that even if the authorities are on your side your likely not going to get anything but your complaint posted against the shop. as far as I'm concerned if I can prove that the rubbing down to metal was caused by their slamming the tie rods I'm going after them for the cost of a body shop to repair it! earlier this summer I was lucky enough to walk up on a family getting into their SCRATCHED 455 suv, I also witnessed their daughter gouging cars my paint with the corner of their beast. all they did was deny that they had any liability gave me lip and when I said we could "keep insurance out of it" she angrily asked "well how do you propose to do that" I would have settled for $20 to get clear coat and a beer my paint is mud tested and scratched up anyway. body shop gave me an estimate just over $500 and AAA paid out. I'm fed up with shops doing shotty work and getting away with it because its industry standard!

Thanks nipper! I'm now trying to figure out if I have two usable tie rods or two left or two right tie rods.... these came in a big boxoparts with no part numbers attached the only numbering in them is a 4 digit code 9z14 and 1105 both seem to be identical in shape as well as thread direction. AH HA so the inner tie rods are the same and the outer are different?! I just got my wagon up on stands and the outer joints feel solid but the inner tie rods clearly have play so bad they click. now on to obtaining a puller tool. nipper 292K

so as usual the plot thickens! les schwab fairfield was willing to take a look at my car for free because of what the vallejo store did, they found my tie rods had so much play they would not align the car agian...... could this have been caused by the tie rods being grosely out of preportion? the rubbing was much more sever on one side that had the most extension. could the steering rack be messed up? I "fixed" vallejos mistake by moving one tie rod over and then the other while the car was running, should I have been more even about moving each tie rod in tandem? I also did this with the tires on the ground... so I'm wondering if I pushed the internals of the rack around to much.... again Thanks in advance

I found these that look like they keep hub centricity and are the best price point option I could find while maintaining a lip for the wheel to rest on. I bought some $12 specials from fairfield tire that were 1/4 inch thick, with nothing contacting the center bore and not allowing the wheel to sit properly in the center bore.... EEEEWWWWW I know know why the preformance ones are so expensive and will be getting a set soon.

I'm not a big fan of wheel spacers and will do with the least possible! this all started when an alignment shop "corrected" my steering wheel spline missalignment by adjusting my tie rods X.X this messes with turning radius and makes the car feel FUNKY! I corrected this by marking a line across both tie rods(across all 3 pieces) and counting the revolutions to get it even on each side, while car was running. supprise supprise my steering wheel is almost where it was before and my car feels much more like a car, even radiuses. In the two days it was out of whack the tie rod with the most extension caused my tire to rub really baddly on a "freindly" serface of the wheel well. my concern that is that after correcting this my wheels still might rubb a little while cornering hard my last wheels were 225/55/17 with a 55mm offset and they didn't rub at all as far as I could tell my current setup is 205/60/16 on 48mm I don't want to spend a ton of money on these buy I will be using these rims for quite a while and then again on my girlfriends car... so please recommend a quality hubcentric spacer I can purchase online I have not had much luck in my search... I did like eiboch's 5mm kit but geez $90 for a set of two plus shipping....

my clock spring is like a ho in Oakland TORE UP! when I did my lift we forgot to disconnect the steering linkage and for 20 minutes were scratching our heads as to what was hanging up not letting the cross member drop..... I have not noticed any more wired clock spring noises so I think I'm ok horn still works... ^ forgot to mention I never swapped in an outback steering wheel in addition to the steering linkage being longer the steering column is angled differently at the connection to the linkage this allows for tilt wheel to work mine is jammed up all the way with some washers so it doesn't rub on my brake diaphragm. I took a look at my tie rod ends and will post pictures this is hilarious! one tie rod has NO threads showing so its tightened all the way and the other has tons of thread showing with a clean spot where it looks like to nut was when the steering rack was even so maybe with those marks and a little biut of measuring I can get it back to where it was before they mucked with it without to much hassle. talk about a 180 degree turn around before leaving the shop I told the tech who worked on my car I appreciated all the good work and I would drop some lift ticket vouchers for kirkwood ski resort later on in the season for their employees to use. what maroons.....

First Thank you so much for the info fairtax secound @$#%$#@^#%&^ mother #@$@ making me have to get under my car after paying good money!!!! I have neck problems so working on my car = more chiropractic bills....

As far as I know yes! I got a text a few weeks ago that the car was driving fine and had passed smog in california, I hope this helps, I told her to order it from subaruparts.com

I took my legoback to les schwab for an alignment since I threw some winter snow tires on. Preface I lifted my car L model with Outback model suspension parts, when I did this I accidently got the steering rack splines off from the steering wheel. The rack was even and unchanged but the steering wheel side was about about 90 degrees off. I lived with it and actually ended up likeing it. Les Schwab did an alignment on the car today when I got it back I realised (pulling out of the parking lot) that the steering wheel was now centered when rolling straight, I continued home... upon arriving I checked and to my horror I could turn the steering wheel nearly two revolutions one way but only one and a few inches the other, now I have different turning radiuses..... I called les schwab and they said they HAD to put the steering wheel to center to align the tires and refused to put the steering wheel back to what it was before I came in. stating that the only way they would check or correct anything was if I fixed the steering wheel splines on the linkage and that as it was my tires would not prematurely ware out. I told them I was filing a b.a.r complaint! I don't understand what and how its been adjusted any and all info appreciated the print out showes the "steer ahead" as -5.43 before and -0.01 after they aligned it. I don't know if this is relavent. I'm worried that even if I did try fix the splines I have no referance before all I would have had to do was disconnect the linkage under the hood at the wheel side level the steerin wheel and reconnect. now I have no referance adn would be just guessing from memory at a 90ish degree angle....alot of this is beacsue I only understand camber and toe conserning alignment and I guess its high time to read up on the rest. Thanks in advance!

I can't afford shipping and I do apologize the tires are gone, a friend who had previously turned them down called me today about them. do you need anything else? I have a big box of new factory parts I got from my room mate for free just odds and ends but you never know... I will try to post some pics of what I have.

I bought this set of 185/75/14 hankook optimo h724 tires before last winter, not as snow flake tire, but they did fine for commuting to kirkwood and back from south lake. I was lucky enough to find a set of 05 outback rims with blizzaks on them for $100 on craigslist so after doing my brakes I wont be going back to 14.I'm asking $50 for the set of tires in hopes that they will be used, if someone is really in a tight spot and needs these tires but can't afford to pay i will gladly consider and likely give you the tires, I'm a no hassle sort of guy and I do have to get rid of these soon! perfectly good no flat repairs, uneven ware, or weather cracking, still holding air from when I took them off the car

oh lol I gotcha as if I had never done that service before, plenty of experiance with tail section ( shakes head while holding it with hand) sooooo parking prawl poped out at me reinstalled after inspecting hard parts everything was fine, got a little freaked out when the at temp light started flashing at me but after shifting through gears and a few starts no more flashing and no tcu codes. I took the extra day to get the factory gasket, having a major atf pathway an inch from the lip of the case no way in hell I'm going to trust just rtv or gasket maker!

your buying an outback and your main problem is charging an IPHONE!!!!!!??????!?!?!?!?! answer to all your problems! get into new outback start driving on free way throw iphone out window drive until Jeremy Clarkson says to stop, probably never....... PROBLEM SOLVED! who needs iphones subarus are way better! Disclaimer: no iphones were harmed in the making of this joke

rofl no its not torque bind as if it were in the general sense, duty c solenoid and clutch packs were replaced not to long ago if you want a good laugh and a long read then search for a "no awd" thread I posted way back when I paid a shop to fix that stuff and they made it way worse. fixed it myself after they mucked it, applied knowledge PRICELESS!!!

does it have air bags? wheres the ride height?

so I had lots of fun in our dirt field and got enough dirt clods stuck in my heat shield to cause high pitched whining and grinding noise. after getting it home and putting it on jack stands we found the problem. I cleared the clods and started it back up everything was cool until a friend put it in park without hitting the brakes.... so after shutting it off and restarting applying a small amount of throttle causes A TERRIBLE JOLTING/GRINDING/POPPING of the transmission seems to be coming from the 4eat tail housing. hoping its a easily fixable pawl issue, who knows will post picks tomorrow... I'm relatively familiar with the parking pawl and the drive driving hubs so if there is catastrophic failure of hard parts this might turn into a "thats why you don't do that ever" topic

Where and how much for the front and rear bull bars? how much for the lift kit+shipping? THANKS!