bluedotsnow

after engine cooled still warm to the touch I noticed that the upper radiator hose was sucked flat and the overflow tank is as full as it was and is not letting coolant back into the system. I do have a subaru rad cap its 60k old give or take

if it is head gaskets would torquing the heads down a pound or two more be a horrible idea? I'm really on the ropes with lack of funding and need of vehicle to make said funding...

96 legacy l 2.2 vin 4 after replacing my transmission (unrelated) my cooling system problems have come back any and all help appreciated. coolant over flow will sporadically have dime sized bubbles or very frothy fluid I have filled and burped the system several times I suspect the radiator might be leaking but I can't test upper and lower hoses get really hard, harder than normal I think NO coolant smell in exhaust NO exhaust smell in coolant hoping this is not head gaskets but prepared to replace as needed.

speaking of cats I was about to say 1 quart every 1000 miles?!?! that can't be good for the cats! poor little fuzzy cats, but seriously all that burned oil sounds like a clogged cat to me after 40-50k planned obsolescence???

man that sucks! hope you find someone reliable

WIN

drives consistently around the block no codes so far 2 gallons of atf on semi level surface rendered a reading of just above cold low going on a test/victory trip to get ice cream and another quart of atf fingers crossed

I would pop that tail section off before swapping the whole trans! the gear that the pawl holds on to does sheer (never for me) but your vibration and pawl problem could be simply from that! once you have the tail section off you can see and reset the pawl as well as slide the shaft and gear assembly out and slide a new one in just that easy (make sure its seated all the way) from the pawl gear you should be able to turn the front wheels if you need any advice on how to service the tail section I can help i have work on more than I can count. BTW its not the rear clutch extension that commonly breaks its the gear interlocking with the pawl!

the above excerpt is from jdmfsm.info a wonderful resource for out cars and many more BTW does anyone know what year subaru started using CVT tranmssions? if you have a CVT Constantly Variable Transmission YOU SHOULD NEVER USE subaruHP or STANDARD ATF!!!!!!!!!! CVT's use their own type of fluid that should be changed much more regularly than the manufacturer states! my friend asked me to service his honda civic hybrid with a CVT and his (clear) cvt fluid came out blacker than his engine oil! it hadn't been changed because its a "lifetime" fluid..... but very much needed to be and the car drove better after changing it.

1. Lift up the vehicle. 2. Remove the drain plug (ATF) and completely drain the ATF. CAUTION: Directly after the vehicle has been running or the engine has been long idle running, the ATF is hot. Be careful not to burn yourself. 3. Check the condition of ATF. 4. Perform replacement with a new gasket, and tighten the drain plug (ATF). Tightening torque: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf-m, 18.4 ft-lb) (A) Oil pan ( Drain plug (ATF) 5. Lower the vehicle. 6. Pour ATF from the oil charge pipe. Recommended ATF: Capacity: Refill with the same amount of ATF drained from the drain plug hole. Capacity when transmission is overhauled: 2.0 L model 8.4 — 8.7 L (8.9 — 9.2 US qt, 7.4 — 7.7 Imp qt) 2.5 L model 9.3 — 9.6 L (9.8 — 10.1 US qt, 8.2 — 8.4 Imp qt) 7. Bleed the air of control valve. 8. Check the level and leaks of ATF.

+1 on the narrower tire! its all about vehicle weight to tire foot print but generally I would say that 205 is a good width for subaru wagons, I'm rocking 205/60/16's of the general altimax arctic variety and they are bullet proof! I pull other subaru's out

w007 trans is just about seated can't believe I have only had help to hold the engine in place for T.C. and flex plate hopefully this beast isn't junk! note about T.C. stay I chose to seat the trans then use a metal cutting wheel to cut the stay bolt before sliding into place to prevent it from damaging the pump. the thin wire method I read about would work as well but I didn't have that option.

just seated my new to me trans and figured while I'm here I might as well address my pcv system, the main crank case vent hose was so brittle I crumbled it with one hand! I think I found my occasional p0420 problem it pays to get oil resistant hoses not heater grade and change them when they get hard. I have been driving the car for 65k and really felt the car could do better mpg and performance wise now hopefully it will and I know why.

Thanks John! I'm moments away from bolting my flex plate in place after resealing my oil separator plate.... then hopefully to get this beast in place before weather hits! much thanks guys I'm on the home stretch of this trans swap, I hope....

I have ALOT of experience using a dremel tool, I use one to sharpen my chain saw.... bushwick you referenced caution on pressure with a file... a dremel does remove material quickly but requires little pressure.. so both methods have their pro's and con's if your new to rotery tools I would use a file but if you have ever used one to carve wood or stone for art sake its a good bet you have the skill... as for deep grooves I have many bits that include polishing bits so I could hone it smoother than factory, no need.... but.... cheers!

man love the mod but please make a better video it was so low quality on my end that I couldn't really see any difference in the ground strap. I plan on doing this but I'm going to use a dremel tool and a vice with a piece of tin guarding the electrode. I was wondering if there was any real reason why my car seemed to run better on iriduim plugs now I know

ngk iriduim ix work fine in my car 96 legacy 2.2 especially if you don't like changing them every 20k miles

sometimes metal shavings collect on the sensor(magnet) and mess up the reading or mud impeding it

yea hammer=leak replace! use subaru coolant conditioner or another stop leak product just in case!

can someone tell me how to move the torque converter around to unbolt and re bolt? do I HAVE to do it by the main shaft on the front of the engine? if so will I need to adjust my timing or do any timing related tasks, remove case...?

did you fill the block? if not detatch the top radiator hose going into the engine fill to a brim and reattach your heater core is totally empty having sat for that long keep it on hot fans on high it will eventually fill and blow hot. if your water pump is bad it wont do this. if you have a huge air pocket this might not happen, FILL THAT BLOCK! CHECK THE bypass hoses going to and from the heater core the lower one above the thermostat likes to leak and gets really hot....

are you filling your radiator only? when I drain or burp my coolant I first fill up the radiator almost full then I fill from the bleeder valve on top or the upper radiator hose flowing into the engine. to fill both the block and the radiator, if your block is empty the fluid wont flow around properly and you will overheat. if your heater core has emptied it will cause a huge air pocket you must bleed off by running the heat on high fans on full for a long time! if large enough it can even cause the car to overheat. if you have a slight leak in your heater core it can allow air in (subaru coolant conditioner work well for fixing this) CHECK ALL your hoses there is one in particular that goes un-checked! just above the thermostat there is a small hose that leads up to your heater core to supply hot coolant, this hose can degrade and just slightly leak my leak was so small that it would dry before I could get down there to look at it. any coolant seepage is bad and must be addressed even on a new hose, tighten it little bit by little bit untill no seepage can be detected. as well as any crusty build up around hoses indicate slow leaks that need to be addressed, all leaks will cause air to enter the system thus overheating your car. REPLACE your coolent every 2 years its properties degrade then it will allow boiling at lower temps

geez what happened? I'm going to do some trans work today and will make a good how to the 4eat tail section service and attempt to get some useful information on here of my first trans swap.

on a manual if your in gear and the car moves I have heard that you can screw up your timing? is this true?

option 4 WAS my first choice until they told me that they couldn't get it ready untill sometime next week... so now I'm hoping I was not swindled into a 5+ year old shelf transmission! they told me it was about 2 years then after looking at the paperwork I see the "age" of the trans was 1943 if that's days then its 5.3 years old.... I'm going to call them in the morning and ask the fluid looked fresh but was leaking at the gasket maker pan seal like they cracked it and put fresh fluid in it before I got there... either way its going in tomorrow and in referance to the warranty I was very specific with them that I would be doing the job and that if it failed I would be counting on the warranty to get another one and they had no problem with that. that was in nevada and I had California dismantlers say the same thing