bluedotsnow

option 3 drive 3 hours each way no milage recorded 30 day warranty filled with fluid untill shipped option 4 drive 2.5 hours each way 154K miles 6 month warranty tech is checking to see if trans is still in car but should have fluid if that's the case.

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I have had some experience repairing various fails of the duty c system. recently I had a solenoid fail mechanically bleeding off atf failing to lock the clutch packs yet the solenoid ohm tested fine and did not throw a tcu code. this all resulted in front wheel drive only this video depicts how I use air pressure to open the valve body and make sure pressure is applied to the clutch disks. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154906353260372&l=4129290750931752898 there are several writeups on how to get to the tail section but I do plan on doing my own with pawl instructions! the one I did find in USRM the guy had a loose one he HOPED would not lock up on him.... GEEZ X.x

if you do some snow driving but need all season wear I would go with the general altimax arctic, yes it is a snow flake rated tire but they also have a dual tread compound that dosn't ware that fast on dry roads. that being said I wouldn't drive on these in temps over 90 degrees but they do work as a year round tire I and several friends have done just that. EXCELLENT snow handling and relatively good all around tire NOT PERFORMANCE and a little squishy but hay for a grocery wagon... I got a set of 205/60/16's for $300 when I compare that to say hancook 7/24's that i have also owned and payed a little more for the generals lasted longer had much better wet/snow traction when I needed it most. the hancoocks were ok but I would say I got more for my money with the general altimax arctics!

oh mush! so I'm likely going to opt for the 125k trans, I may go with the rancho cordova recycler but then its more money plus shipping so they better tell me they are going to do it right will find out tomorrow. the "tech" with the 125k trans said that they do "drain it but the fluid in the torque converter sloshes around as its carried" then they drain the "rest" of the fluid just before shipping... he also said that that he sells transmissions that have been sitting for 8-9 years and they work fine. as for claiming I did something wrong per california law if a shop does something wrong you go to b.a.r otherwise the puller has to warranty the trans because they can't prove you or the installer did anything wrong. if they give you the run around go to the BBB and BAR and tell the installer you are they don't like government agencies sniffing around so sometimes it just takes letting a place of business know that you know your rights.

I have the general list of what to do remove exhaust remove drive shaft unbolt shifter cable from passenger side of trans drain trans remove front axles disconnect 2 tranny lines on driver side that run to radiator disconnect 2 trans electrical plugs disconnect speedo wires unbolt starter unbolt 4 flexplate bolts through access hole below the throttle body on the passenger side of the engine unbolt pitch rod brace engine from tilting forward unbolt trans from engine use jack and block of wood to support trans unbolt trans crossmember stop transmission from crashing to floor stop torque converter from falling out the front of the transmission at the same time say to yourself "I hope I never have to do that again" but this is the most helpful thing I could find... please pass on any good resources

`in my quest for a new transmission a friend told me a few horror stories about sitting on a shelf for to long, the little atf that is there drains away from rubber seals and they dry out only to be smashed to bits once the trans is installed... my two options as it stands now are option 1 $300 cash 30 day return 125k on trans before pull sitting "about 2 years" in their warehouse option 2 $438 90 day return no recorded millage sitting about 1 year in warehouse Thanks in advance!

Hi all so I have had some headaches with this and never found a decisive video on how to test the rear lockup system I recently had no rear wheel lock up but no TCU code either so this is what I found and how to test the system for functionality before reinstalling into the car. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154906353260372&l=4129290750931752898

so I would start with ALL YOUR COOLANT HOSES the BYPASS hose is what gets most people I had it screw me after I had done radiator, head gaskets, valve job and one small break in the hose at the hose clamp caused my car to overheat! any leak in your cooling system whether heater core or hose causes air to get in, a bubble forms then next thing you know it there is zero coolant in your block you mentioned that you checked the fluid level was that in the overflow, radiator, or block? I have had an empty block but full radiators and overflow tanks... after inspecting and replacing hoses I would fill it with fresh coolant and either subaru coolant conditioner or the stuff you can buy at oreilly's in the bright green bottle that has "nanotech" its just sodium silicate but I have had really good luck with it, fixed my heater core issue I was having just a few weeks ago. the bypass hose is extremely important just above your thermostat there is a hose that supply's your heater core with hot coolant and its then fed back into the top of your intake to recollect heat before it gets back to the bottom of the block. these hoses are often times overlook and and like I said very important to check! my leak was so small it would only leak in stop and go traffic and just put out a fine mist that dried before I could get out of the car to see where the leak was coming from... also use that bleeder valve on your radiator and change your coolant every 2 years!!!

so I thought I had posted in here before but does anyone else think it would kick rump roast to drop some in hub electric motors with regen breaking and a capacitor as well as the computer to link the electric and gas drive platforms... hm... AWD when you need it RWD when you don't plus you get all that tasty torque at the front for launches and that doesn't hurt your clutch or trans either...

CHECK ALL your pcv system!!! a minor vacuum leak can cause wierd operations from throwing off lambda or stochiomitry. and its usually a cheap fix with a hose clamp but sometimes the super small ones need replacing too... main clue you might see oil seepage at any point that leaks, common places are the valve cover breathers, crank vent, pcv and all the hoses in-between, even the secondary vacuum systems can casue problems if there are slight leaks.

thanks john but that's not the case at all when given gas the car will inch the wheels forward or backward, I can actually get rather good reverse motion compared to forward but only at 3k or higher rpm with any luck I will have a tested trans in the car before the week is over because of financial reasons it looks like I'm going to attempt the install myself. oh btw if the spring is slipped and the pawl is free floating and someone puts it in drive it will sound like the transmission is ripping itself apart otherwise if the pawl is stuck the wheels wouldn't move at all.

yes checked fluid many times drained and filled with other fluid as well one main clue after 20-30 minutes of idling atf was barely warm so it seems as its just sitting in the pan not getting pumped where it would collect heat. I have never taken the trans out just serviced the tail section... in your second statement are you talking about installing a trans into a car or bolting the pump together between the trans and bell housing?

the only tricky thing about putting the clutch packs back in is first aligning them with a screw driver then sliding them on to the drive hub, I actually had great success this last time assembling the drive/driven/clutch packs and then sliding the tail housing over it but either way each clutch disc must slide along the drive hub which gets grooved causing the clutches to catch in the grooves. so as one slides the hubs into place one must turn the drivin hub manipulating the clutch disks so they have play to slide into place. if I were in your situation I would have just left the car alone but I was stuck in front wheel drive. I have to drive over carson pass to get to work so front wheel drive doesn't work for me... your issue with reverse and t.b. is likely the clutch packs binding on your grooved drive hub inside the transmission or the solenoid itself having failed but I think in the 98 when the solenoid fails atf pressure should be drained not applied like in my 96... have you ever had your ecu/tcu checked for codes? in a 98 the codes should come up on an obd2 scanner in my car 96(second year of obd2) I have to connect a ground jumper to a connector port to get the tcu to flash the code through the atf temp light. the first time I had a problem with my rear wheels it was T.B. from a bad solenoid and I was able to get the car to flash the duty c code at me.

so after some poking I can tell the atf pump isn't outputting properly... no seepage at the test port on front of trans.... does anyone know a good shop in the sacramento, ca or reno/carson nevada areas? the mobile mechanics in my area just say well we don't have good luck putting in "tested" transmissions.... I'm thinking about doing the swap myself but have never changed a whole trans and don't think I have all the tools....

does anyone know what would cause a duty c solenoid to loose the ability to retain pressure? electronically its fine but can't resist the pressure blows right out the top and sides!

the tps can be adjusted you might have changed its alighnment tapping on it, it might have needed to be adjusted for some time or it could be broken... mine needs to be tweeked, someone who thought they knew what they were doing "adjusted" mine now I only get 95% throttle when it should be 100%

gary do you flip the switch when the car is running? I'm wondering if I blew mine up from toggling the switch quickly out of frustration... would you advise new users to only flip the switch with the car off or do you toss it around while driving ie once you hit snow on the road without pulling over... thanks

yes it should work but your going to have to swap hard parts to make it work ie reduction drive and redution drivin gear.

did a drain and fill with dex3 no change added lucas stop slip no change yet car is idling now.... its very strange the trans seems to be doing nothing as if the only thing happening is me moving the shifter but the rpms do change.... going to swap in my spare tcu as I can drain the car completely while running without getting a code for low atf.... my only other thought is that I slightly pulled the reduction drive and driven gears away from whatever they seat into and didn't fully reseat them... but I would think that the tail housing wouldn't slide in place if that were the case, I was very carefull to have the clutch pack free spinning after torquing the tailsection on. spare tcu had 0 effect...

no I know the differance between the two tubes I was filling the trans, valvoline is sending out a sample kit so they can lab test the atf but claim their product likely cleaned my transmission to death. I'm going to drain and fill with regular dexron 3 bought car 250k drove on dex3 to 290k d&f with valvoline maxlife atf till 315k second drain and fill car wont move but a shuttery reverse.

after serviceing my duty c and clutch packs my car basically refuses to move it will catch in reverse speratically and does not feel like its shifting into any gear other than neutral. last time I did a drain and fill I used valvoline maxlife full synthetic atf and then filled with the same after this service and its like nothing is locking up, if and when I do get enguagement it feels like its slipping slightly. I drained more fluid than I should have and it drove more normal then checked and filled symptoms got worse. I drained all the fluid I could dip stick registers as empty then refilled to cold full level. problem is just the same car in just about any shift possition wont move and will sometimes catch if given gas. there was a point that shutting the car off, restarting and imediatly shifting into another gear would let me move the car (how I got it back to its parking spot).... PLEASE HELP!!! Thanks

cat seems to be leak free I'm going to put the car on ramps and have another look at the exhaust system. among other things I need to straighten the hanger bracket from the last smashed pipe...

that was my first thought fairtax but its saterday so they are all closed.... the one I spoke with said they could do it but not untill monday and for $85... my thought a new harbor freight arc welder is $100 I'm going to spend the extra $15 and go all Jeremy Clarkson! but first to parts n wrecks in sacramento for a new to me ypipe. I just hope I don't need 02 sensors on top of this but C'est la vie btw take a look at this after market crimp and twist courtesy of a rock I hit at 50mph... honeycomb looks shiny clean and intact! way better than I was expecting!

EPIC expencive OOPS! hopefully I can get this welded back together....