bluedotsnow

jerks wont pay now I have to take them to court so I'm tacking on the cost of a new set of tires since some rubbing damage did occur... and I'm going to start writing political figures in hopes I can make a dent in this dishonest industry!

no its not neither is having a torn up tail housing gasket on a 4eat! I'll get to it in about a month after I bring in some money, no visible leaks or problems after adding about a half gallon of atf. it must pool in the tail section over time as I ran it through all the gears and then checked the fluid last time I serviced it.

I'm not looking for a fight, however I am looking to petitioning to change the law/policy for alignment shops if this is industry standard I'm sure I'm not the first to have this problem I understand my situation is unique but by law they should have informed me if they are going to make a change that drastic! if they had I would have said no thanks! Ammo for B.A.R. is not predestined to be shot at Les schwab! the only reason the vallejo shop agreed to realign it was because fairfield found play in the tie rod otherwise they would not have touched it, they HAD to cover their rump roast or I could have sued(not something I'm into)

yup all signs point to low tranny fluid causing this. I drove from fairfield, ca to reno, nv . the next day we drove to sparks parked and when we got back in it just did not want to stay running in gear! my car just had plugs, oil... has ngk wires... don't think it needs a tune up after adding a little more than a quart of atf the car seemed to feel less bogged and ran fine the rest of the way up to kirkwood, ca and then again back down to the bay area today. I don't see any seepage but I'm likely leaking out of my tailsection gasket I need to replace AGAIN! purely my fault..... no cell from ecu or tcu I love my kiwi plx obdII scanner I'm hoping no more major snags untill after 300K, 293k and counting!

I'm on my cell or I'd confirm go to http://www.opposedforces.com and compare part numbers for outback and forester in your generation

sounds like something in the transmission tail section or behind possibly a bearing or differential? have you checked the rear diff fluid? carrier bearing for the drive shaft? sounds like something ceased put the rear of the car on ramps or jack stands and have a good look from the transmission back after checking fluid levels and color/metal shavings. check the rear diff oil level from under the car and use a flashlight to inspect every joint and moving piece.. if you find nothing its most likely viscous coupling or internal trans damage. my money is on a rear diff problem I think thats the only thing that would cause only the rear wheels to lock up at once are you sure it was both?

today I was pulling out of a parking spot and my car died half way out so I fired it up again put it in gear and it immediately died. any gear other than park or neutral would cause it do die, I could feel the trans shift normally but when engaged the car would simply shut off no sputtering just off no tcu or ecu codes.... I called AAA and when the driver showed up he assessed the vehicle and gave it throttle while shifting and it stayed running. at first he would have to keep the peddle down a bit to keep it from dieing but after a few minutes it was running and driving like normal. fluid was a little bit low once only registering at the tip of the stick but then subsequent checks rendered in the mid side of cold.... I did a parking pawl reset and was forced to re use my old atf after it sat in an oil pan and pulled oil into itself. I also might have had a small piece of gasket floating around... I filled the trans with more fluid and have yet to check the level after it clears out of the stick tube. the car seems to be running better now, hopefully it wont turn into anything big of others have had this kind of problem please let the info flow as always thanks in advance.

I am very familiar with the transfer clutch tail section of the trans, this is the only ware item? I'm asking because I need ammo for B.A.R. the alignment shop I'm dealing with said I would have absolutely no problems from the way they aligned my car "correcting" the steering wheel Their "warranty" also excludes every other part other than tires as liability items when doing an alignment. my state may have laws preventing this exclusion.....

all 1995 and 1996 lower end legacy (everything but outback) have a service bulletin recall on the right or left transverse link i think its the passenger side.... but its worth replacing altrom imports makes a decent replacement for the lower end and the outbacks can be easily had at pickandpull and usually are not blown out, I did have a bad day of looking, 3 yards and every transverse link was blown out outback included.

who wants to burn your eyes trying to figure it out? not me! if its bright with normal lights then brighter with your brights..... I think its working fine..... the best way to keep your bulbs fresh it to use only for extended periods of time and never "flash" your lights this momentarily heats/cools your lights and unevenly heats the filament causing it to stretch making a weak point where it will eventually fail.

since different size tires even same tire different tread ware can cause damage to AWD transmissions because of different rotations on each side of the differential, could front wheels turning at different radius's cause the same binding damage? I recently had a wheel alignment gone wrong and my turning radius's were about as off as they could be

NO stock 48mm offset subaru wheels with 205/60/16 tires which are actually smaller than 205/70/15 being the stock outback size. the rubbing is not even, on the wheel that was closest in, the rubbing appears to be smaller and more centered the other side that had the most extension is the worst and is slightly more twords the outside of the wheel well. because the passenger side had so much extension when I turned right I think the drivers side had so little room it was pulled over by the steering rack to slightly rub because the other tire had much more room to move.

check your water pump / heater core bypass hose! its located above the thermostat housing coming out of the water pump very small coolant line. on my car I did my HG's replaced almost all the hoses a week goes by and I start to loose coolant the only way i know this is religiously check just having done my hg's... one day i was driving to San francisco airport about an hours drive on my way back I notice HOLY spoob I'm at the top of my temp guage and the car is accelerating like spoob! so I pop it into neutral engine off and cost to the shoulder. I had very little coolant anywhere in my block..... this whole time I was looking for drips or seepage from the block but the hole in the heater core hose was so small cut by the hose clamp holding it on that it would only leak when pressurized. this pressure and the heat of the engine would also men that if it only leaked while driving on the freeway by the time I could pull over to check it would all be dry by that time. when coolant is lost through this hose it drains the heater core so effectively it will stop heat from coming out your vents.

my faith in Les Schwab as a chain has been restored! the fairfield, ca store aligned my car and even pointed out a small amount of play in the steering rack they though to be a second bad inner tie rod... i wont be doing thousands of miles this winter so they aligned the car and sent me on my way free of charge and when leaving i was pleased to find my turning radius's equal. and i was soooooo close a few tenths of a decimal off of that it should have been!

seat belt slammed in door = broken switch innards! been there.... I find if you can jiggle the switch with your fingers and get erroneous operation just replace it! if you need a few I have tons of picknpull yards around me ATM.

BTW since you have an outback already you can't add more stock lift blocks as your car came with them and forester springs wont give you 2" more. when you go from a legacy L to an outback you see around a 2" lift gain. when your lifting an outback you really need a professional lift kit with things like adjustable control arms, proper higher than stock body spacers, steering linkage cut and re-welded(most pro lift kits don't come with the steering linkage) possibly a transverse link spacer set for the front and absolutely drive shaft spacers if your going to put after market lift blocks on there are like 5 ujoints in the drive shaft but you still don't want to stress it out while driving down the road.

KYB is your best ECONOMY option! I got a set of the gr2's from a local pick and pull USED and have not had a problem with them at all! if you want better shocks/more tire/rim/performance get coil overs! your going to pay "wongleflute money" for them but thats a way better purchase than tons of money on some other non coil over struts.

I have been pondering a good spot for full size spare tires myself as I'd like to convert that compartment to an aux (removable) battery compartment for camping/welding/buffoonery/survival.... something tells me a hitch with mount would be the most efficient method of carrying multiple full size spares outside the cabin.

they may exist but since your looking for a discontinued vehicle.... I found a few 1 inch strut lifts on google, ebay.,... I think it really depends on the structure of the baja and its dissimilarities to the to the lego-forest-impreza lot which are basically completely swappable. the baja is sort of a platform in itself..... http://opposedforces.com can show you what parts are different and which are the same.

sad ball joint R est I n the scrap P ile

plus as stated in a previous post the rubbing is uneven pass to drivers side.... the passenger side with more length in tie rod had Much more rubbing damage than the side that had no thread showing.

no power steering fluid in my boots! saw tutorial with port in steering rack and in boot thought it was for fluid, high pressure... makes sense fluid in boot is bad. here are the pics of the rubbing posting them for the first time the first few pics were posted to show how far over they adjusted the tie rod but its to blurry... these rub marks are so clean there is no way they happened prior to getting my alignment no oil film no dust and everything else is caked! and I don't see how these tires could rub they are actually slightly SMALLER than stock outback, I have 205/60/16 slightly smaller than 205/70/15 (stock)

I love home cooking on a road kill budget! (insert sarcasm here) I noticed that the rack and pinion bellows on my car don't have a return for steering fluid so being broke and not being able to get a fresh boot till tomorrow evening I decided to rtv mine back together here is a pic. I also made a few other budged conscious choices reuse non reusable crimp washer, over torque with locktight.... at least its almost back together! if anyone is curious about this boot fix all I did was clean mating surfaces with brake parts cleaner and rag then apply black RTV and weight as you can see from the socket. looks good after curing with no separation when pulled on. in alot of DIY tie rod videos I saw the boots were held on by metal or plastic zip ties mine seems to be OEM? and has a "spring ring" for lack of a better term to hold it on the the rack. these are soooo much easier to deal with as they slide on and off with ease yet hold the boot in place plenty well.

if you have an MT GET AN MT RADIATOR!!!!!!! they did give you the auto version if its got small atf cooler line ports! part houses are usually way lax about that stuff unless you get on their rump roast and are very polite from the first word! hard combo! I once got into it with pepboys because I called and asked if they stocked my break pads (93 1.8 impreza L front wheel drive) they said yes and that they would set them aside. I went down and gave them the same info again verified that the part I was buying was designated for my car, got home and found out they were way to big the 455 hat who looked it up was looking for an 03 impreza instead of a 93 impreza. I can't count how many times I said 93 to them,,,, to many

+1 to legy777 dash lights are a great place to start! was the car ever starved of fuel for a really long time? I have a 15.9 gallon tank in my 96 legoback but when I use 10 of those gallons I hit my Empty line. these cars fuel pumps use the fuel as coolant so if you constantly have only 4-5 gallons in the tank you never stall but your overheating the pump... I drive mine on empty when I have to and have not had a problem but I strive not to.