bluedotsnow

you have to replace the whole axle but if you have a junk yard around you can usually get them for a 4th of the price with a little work.... get some good punches I found a set at harbor freight tools for around $8 and they are very long this is important if things get jammed sometimes not to your fault on removal. I doubt I would have been able to do the job especially as easily without these. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-long-drive-pin-punch-set-93111.html if you are doing the work yourself and have never seen the condition of the roll pins I would suggest getting some from the dealer or the junkyard! on a Sunday with my car half apart I called around to all the auto parts stores in Vallejo, ca that were open NONE had a roll pin the right size, but picknpull did. so be prepared for a broken one just in case. I doubt a picknpull would charge more than a dollar for them. I think the previous owner of my car used a door roll pin for the axle and had it off a spline SLOPPY!

where can I get these filters for a 96 lego? I'm guessing that most people don't use these especially newer Subaru cough cough 2.5 cough with the weeping head gaskets because of the "Subaru coolant conditioner" it has TONS of flakes for sealing minor leaks. when I was refilling my radiator with a vacuum tool the "coolant conditioner" clogged the intake screen very quickly. I believe Subaru recommends using this "conditioner" every coolant service.

it varies between models but the pre 96 cars or OBD1 cars have a green test connector and a black read connector. when both are connected at the same time I believe it clears the codes. GET A FSM it will have your test procedure and tell you what each connector does. also http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ is a great resource for this!

get a pen/paper and remember to "be the flash" ROFL just pay attention to the cycle.

I noticed a gurgle on start for a long time after servicing my 96 lego several times for various coolant reasons.... but I wrote it off drove around and after a few oil changes had passed it seems to have gone away. have you tried driving the car a long distance? how about using a vacuum device to suck coolant into the engine, last time my coolant was changed we used such a device. not sure if this helped but as long as your air pocket is not causing overheating just drive it.

Denso?!?

tirerack.com lets me select 205/75/14 tires with my vehicle, anything larger and it tells me the tires are not for my vehicle. 205/75/14 are much taller than 195/70/14 and if going from stock tire size to the larger I would gain almost an inch of ground clearance. I'm going to do some measuring and make sure that guard wont rub.

I have a 96 lego L stock that will need tires soon. I'd like to put some OB suspension and or lift but I'm going to need new tires before any of that is going to happen as my general ats that came with the car are wearing down quick.... I would like to get as large a tire as possible without having to modify/remove such things like the strut guard. would 205/70/14 or 205/75/14 be to much? I have read that on 1st gen legos 195/70/14 tires do not rub. I could not find a post about 2nd gen stock ride height tire size. all helpful info appreciated, thanks in advance!

lol yes driving without tail lights is a great way to meet cops, and or a bad idea! I was referring to the section of plastic that's on the gate or 5th door on a sedan of this generation it would be on the back of the trunk. its a red plastic bubble with subaru printed inside but it has no lights... so I'm bound and determined to fix this! all my tail lights are of legal function and checked regularly! I have also toyed around with the idea of drilling out and mounting small leds in the subaru constellation logo, one for each star. will have to wait for time and money to become plentiful....

I need to build a larger one of these for my wagon's rear tailgate that has no lights stock, THE SUBARU MUST BE LIT! also comically changed to UBARU with umlauts

this would be strictly for giggles and parade worthy, I don't know if I'd drive around with them all the time but if I'm going to go through all that I might as well mount small LEDs too for effect.... a junk yard part project! I'm not taking parts off my daily driver just for this... I keep getting a mental picture of a second gen lego with the rear light section as a (magnetic) fish tank clear of course! and tinted just enough to be legal, a change from "blacked out" lights x.x the only thing better would be a clear timing cover can I get a poll of who would actually be interested in such a thing if they were made for all ej engine.

if you put it in FWD for a 2wd dino your just lying to yourself. yeah it might work but your sending ALL your power to the front and during normal 4eat operation the rear end drags the front down or robs power. I'd say a better test on a 2wd dyno would be to get your rear end on jack stands with the front on the dyno. you still lack the resistance of the road on the rear end but its closer to the reality if AWD. please if I'm wrong or this is a BAD IDEA someone pipe in to correct me. I know that when my rear wheels were disabled by an rump roast hat shop be mistake my 96 lego had bad front wheel spin on standing starts and seemed not to operate properly. all the fuse does is vent atf line pressure from the clutch pack so it wont lock I don't know if it still gets ATF for lubrication but I would assume so.

I plan to go full disco! platform heels with fish meet pimp my ride x.x magnetic turn signal fish! I'd suggest real gold fish but them you have to feed em and will likely cook them in summer x.x will take some modding to junk yard lights but should be interesting!

new (to me) CV axle rendered this beauty, what kind of dunder head mechanic would think this is ok..... also installed back seats with head rests for $10 I <3 picknpull

I wish someone else would chime in I believe one of the key differences between my car a 96 lego and your car is that the line pressure flowing the duty c valve body operates the clutches in a different fashion. yours I believe is locked in AWD unless line pressure is applied to the clutch packs separating them and rendering more FrontWD bias. mine requires line pressure applied to the clutch pack to engage AWD.

I had to do this job after a shop and dealer @#$# me over. here is what I learned. if your going to replace the duty c solenoid you have to buy the valve body, if you actually want to install the new duty c valve body you need TWO gaskets one for under the backing plate and one for in between the backing plate and valve body. some people will tell you that "the gasket comes off every time and are reusable" but I have spent over $1000 on a bad situation that was resolved by myself comparing what a shop did to a tail section I got at pick n pull. I used the new solenoid on a junkyard valve body/tail section and low and behold rear wheel drive! (general disorder) did call this way before I found the problem but I did not have the means to test or verify his advice until recently. after you get done replacing parts and still have the tail section off, get a can of air or air compressor to test that the valve body is operating properly. apply pressure to the supply port on the tail section and you should see two things happen. the (I believe lower) valve will open with psi applied to it and will allow pressure to flow up through the supply line forcing the clutch pack against the snap ring. not doing this untill a week ago has cost me dearly and I will now do it every time I have to do this job! if you re install the valve body without the backing plate it will not hold pressure properly and blow it off back into the main fluid cavity. this causes the trans to show a higher fluid level than it should with a less than normal amount of atf (at least in my case) and it will also prevent atf from properly lubricating the clutch pack. so you will burn up your atf rather quickly I will post some pics for you when I can. this is an easy job that takes ALOT of patience and the right tools. the parking prowl can also be problematic but as long as you make ABSOLUTELY sure its in place even with the case mostly on you will be fine. if you get it back together and you have clacking or juddering in D then you have to open it all up again and make sure that little prowl spring is in place holding tension on the prowl or it will move when in D and causes BAD BAD things to happen if left unchecked. I test the car with all 4 wheels off the ground just to be safe. if you brace your trans properly and don't let it sag I found that the top two case bolts were impossible to get to without a flexible socket extension or one (for lack of a better term) with a u-joint like the rear drive shaft. I'm sure a thumb drive and extension could get it on but you really need a bit more than hand tight on these. I have a 96 lego and will compare parts on opposedforces.com/parts 97 is the year they changed the 4eat or I would refer you to my parts list. I believe this is the year they changed how the transfer clutch/solenoid operates and fails too. can you list your trans code and the manufacture date? my 96 was actually made in 95 but still has OBD2 whoo hoo! from what I can see on opposedforces.com/parts the only major change was in the piston clutch transfer assembly, do you have an F.S.M. not chilton or anything else BUT A REAL FSM for your car?

B.A.R. Bureau of Automotive Repair I live in cali and as I understand it they are "mechanic police" sort of like a specialized better business bureau. after filing a formal complaint against the dealership, which I will be changing to reflect this new information, I was told by a bar officer that I was in full right to work on my own vehicle I understand this is a he said she said, she being winters auto, but I have their paint that matches paint on my trans. furthermore they admittedly did not reuse the old backing plate claiming a new one should have come with the parts along with a secondary gasket but there was no mention of this on the day of initial service. they just sloped new parts they were given in without looking at what they were doing. when I went back on monday of this week I saw the owner take my old original solenoid valve body into the back to show it to the mechanic that serviced my vehicle. he then pulled the plate off the old valve body, in my book THAT'S EVIDENCE TAMPERING! the owner did NOT see that I was watching out of the shop office door. BTW they also cut my exhaust instead of dropping it from the rubber mounts I presume this was to add labor hours. there was also something rattling around in there before they cut it and was not there after they put it together. I'm guessing it was just garbage but they never disclosed what it was they removed, I just bought the car and hope they didn't take something that was not theirs. not much I can do about it now.... I am once again floored over the dishonesty and lack of knowledge concerning subaru vehicles especially 4eats. I have spoken with 5 or more transmission shops and gotten mixed answers about everything. subaru's are great cars I have no problem working on them, why do qualified technical at independent shops have no clue? why are the dealers so vague about service and lacking in the customer service department. I have traveled into several different areas seeking help on this matter and all have been almost no help.

I bought an oil pressure gauge and tested the port it rendered a zero reading, I believe i made a post about that. after asking several trans shops about the rear oil test port and the zero reading they still had no clue and were even more apprehensive to work on my car. I paid a visit to winters auto to pick up the check they stated they would have for me today and low and behold they changed there story without calling me to " you need to go to B.A.R. to straighten yourself out" I will now be asking for all the new parts I bought and they improperly installed replaced, as well as damages for my time and gallons of burnt ATF!

if only more people felt this way GEEZ! good looking out general your an upstanding guy!

I did not damage this in any way and was the condition it went into my used parts box. I would HARDLY call that reusable yet again I will say $100 clutch pack on a maybe, yet the dealer left out this ESSENTIAL gasket and plate. I don't care if they can be reused I asked for ALL THE PARTS! why reuse a few dollar gasket when you could use a new one!?!

Thanks again general! in my case the gasket did not stay on the back of the plate and was damaged after it came out of the tail housing I will post pics of the remnants left on the plate.

woods wagon please read my post about the parts list the dealer handed me. they left out the backing plate and second solenoid gasket. if they were going to super carefully take it apart the valve body as to not disrupt the backing plate and gasket why was there no mention of this to me?!? I would have wanted to fork out the extra what $5 for the second gasket and backing plates if I was going to replace $400 in other parts! i will admit the dealership is less at fault than I originally perceived BUT they still gave me an incomplete parts list and that contributed to the faulty instillation. this has been a learning process for me and at the start I had no idea how incompetent a shop can be.... LESSON LEARNED Its really hard to say if it was or wasn't worth it because if I had done the work myself it would have been done right. I was worried about ME screwing something up it being my first time opening a transmission. I really do wish I had just cracked it open in my driveway initially after getting the diagnosis from the dealer. IF I thought the dealer was 100% NOT at fault I would have writen them a letter of apology and contacted bar about getting the complaint reversed. PLEASE TELL ME why would they list a clutch pack that "might" need to be replaced and not a mandatory gasket and backing plate? they also told me that the clutch pack was ABSOLUTELY part of my problem, how is a clutch pack electric as per the electrical problem..... you should check out yelp.com for reviews on this dealer I'm not the only one who has had problems and again they are much less at fault than I originally perceived. I asked many questions about there select monitor process readings and were generally not help full other than wanting money that day to do work themselves and I half think the service manager intentionally left out the backing plate and parts so that only they would get it right and if I went to another shop they were more likely to fail. any competent shop would have done this right I got a real monkey..... YET AGAIN I ASK Should I replace the clutch packs having not been lubricated properly they are brown not black and still have friction material.

you said it general! a belated thanks for the tip.... I until recently lacked the ability to get the car high enough to get under it. I hail you for your honesty in helping others and wish in some ways that I did live closer..... it seems everyone in my area SUCKS or wants to charge and arm and a leg so this lesson being learned I hope I can help other in my area. testing the clutch pack with compressed air is something I read about but never found a good guide for. I'm going to do a write up on this when I get the gaskets and parts to fix my original tail housing in addition to how mine lacking the backing plate tested bad. in your opinion should I replace the clutch pack asap? it not having been lubricated properly.

right on! black/blueish is oil. no experience with running rich other than seeing white dropped honda's asses covered in black "afterburner" film.

winters auto agreed to refund me in full and pay for at least the gaskets on request.... I would and should ask for more like replacing the clutch pack that was not lubricated properly, but this shop is family to my GF and I just want to put this mess behind me. I still have alot of animosity twords the dealer for the INCOMPLETE and OVERSOLD parts list. I'm going to call bar back about this over sale bacause its gross! albany subaru told me to buy and replace these parts 31523AA410 plate set 31942AA090 valve ay transfer 31948AA010 pipe transfer 31954AA071 gasket transfer valve 31337AA120 gasket trans case they told me the clutch pack was ABSOLUTELY part of the problem and not just something that should be replaced. they also left out a second transfer valve gasket and Plate Transfer Valve, part number 31952AA030, COST $1.51. what the parts list SHOULD have looked like even with the oversold clutch pack. 31523AA410 plate set < comes with 3.3MM pressure plate 31942AA090 valve ay transfer 31948AA010 pipe transfer 31954AA071 gasket transfer valve 31954AA071 gasket transfer valve 31952AA030 Plate Transfer Valve 31337AA120 gasket trans case optional pressure disks (MIGHT NEED) $38.70 each 31593AA161 3.7MM pressure plate 31593AA171 4.1MM pressure plate 31593AA181 4.5MM pressure plate turns out I could use either 3.7 or 4.1 to bring my car into factory spec. the 3.3 works with 1MM of play 1.6 is "allowable" and I spoke with a master tech at a san francisco subaru dealer and he said he had set the clutch packs up with 1MM of gap before without a problem. when winters auto took the old solenoid valve body off they neglected to see the plate stuck to the back of the old valve body and used the single gasket to afix the new valve body onto the bare tail housing. if they had noticed at the time and said something I would have had to use a liquid gasket option for the second gasket left out of the parts list by albany subaru. had that liquid gasket failed the next day or day after I would NOT have held them accountable for anything as it would have been my call to use that kind of product in place of a gasket. the fact that they didn't notice the plate and put it back together without saying anything was negligent and has cost me dearly. as I said before if this was a shop I did not have ties to I would have gone straight to bar and sued for thousands of dollars, but here is to keeping the peace! On another note as to why I don't like "subaru dealers" I have not found one thats a REAL SUBARU DEALERSHIP! they all sell other cars and are miss informed/don't care about parts/service. many months ago when I started this whole fiasco just after buying my girlfriends car she needed keys as hers was stripped out. her car came with all original paperwork including the key code. we brought all this information into fairfield subaru. they told us they did not have blanks and to order factory cut keys would be several hundred dollars. However if we could get blanks that dealership could cut them for free.... well today I went in and talked to the same guy! he said they DID NOT cut subaru keys and only offered that service for GM customers with a GM key machine. he then told me to call the napa subaru dealership. They told me to go to a lock smith..... so WTF is the problem with these service/parts departments! they wouldn't tell me what they would do to my car for a diagnostic and refused to give out basic information sating that if I followed there "instructions" and it failed I could sue them. that may be but I was not asking for instructions only the procedures they would use to diagnose my car not exactly how they would conduct those procedures. if I find a REAL subaru dealership here in CALI I will post it I have a good feeling about SF and will visit them in the next few months when I have to travel that way for work.