stickedy

This old beast runs horrible when idling. It runs well for some seconds and than it dies. If the choke is used, it runs quite good, but idling is a bit too high. So I guess increasing the idle speed could help the engine to stay alive It's worth the try... But: Where do I find the idle adjustment on this three cylinder carbed engine? Sadly I don't have any technical documentation at all

Could be possible that the just rust away on my EA82T, don't really know, but my two other cars (1987 GL and 1986 DL) don't have the mounting there at all... Anyway, are this things useful in some way? And what's their correct name? My technical english is not so good at all Would be very nice if you could tell me the part number later

Hmm, some kind of question: I noticed some kind of rubber spring deflection limitation (I hope this is understandable ) in the rear of one of my donor cars (1993) near the struts. All other cars inclusive my 1989 one don't have this limitation there, just the mounting for it. Could this be used in combination with the air suspension of my 1989 EA82T? I have some problems with my wide base tyres and the wheel arch (touching each other now and then) and I think this limitation could/would prevent this. But because I haven't seen this limitation before I'm not sure. And to make it more worse: The nuts of the donor car are too rusty, so that they will not loose. Also I can't find that things in any shop, can anyone tell me the part number?

I thought there is no relay for the fan circuit? If there is one, where is it?

I have two more problems or questions (It seems that it will never end...): 1. My electrical fan won't start with the thermoswitch. So, the thermoswitch should be bad, but I tested it with an ohmmeter and the resistor values seem to be right. I also tried to baypass the thermoswitch with a piece of wire at the connector, but nothing happened, the fan didn't start. But I've installed a manual switch which turns on the fan directly and it works. So neither the fan itself nor the thermoswitch seems to be the problem. But what else could it be? 2. I'm currently trying to install a digital dash as replacement for my analog one (yeah, I know, everyone does it the other way, but I love those digital displays!) and I managed to figure out all connections (thanks to the FSM) and the dash works fine, but I have a problem with the park light: It stays on when the Ignition and the main light switch are off (No, it's not the park light switch near the steering wheel, this one is off and switching it, changes nothing ) . If I flick the light switch to on, the two position lights in the front go off and the two main lights are going on instead! This is an very odd behaviour and I guess, I forgot to connect some wire, but I really don't know which. So has anyone some idea on this point? Something to add: The digital dash is for an automatic transmission (fine, 5 more indicators for some things), my car (and therefore my analog dash) is for manual transmission. Thanks in advance

For the records: Yes, there is jumper (in fact it's a connector with two pins and a piece of wire between this two pins.) inside the dash. Look here for more: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67308

Look here for more: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67308

There is jumper (in fact it's a connector with two pins and a piece of wire between this two pins.) inside the dash. You can reach it without pulling the whole dash! Just loosen all the little srews around the transparent plastic cover and take away piece for piece. Then you will see this jumper. Installed = MPH Uninstalled = KM/H It will only take about five to ten minutes. And when the cover is already away, you can take the opportunity and clean everything with some dry cloth. This will apply to digital dashes for EA82 of 1987 and later (the green ones).

Thanks man!! That was the whole problem... I feel like an idiot :-\ I drove the car home a few minutes ago. Don't know why this lever was in "neutral", but it was there. Now everything works fine so far. Thanks one more time for this great hint!! We would have pulled the whole engine again and searched for any mistake or damage and would have spend hours for just nothing...

Yeah, that was my thought, too. And all three cars were/are 4WD... Urghs... I left the all-time 4WD transmission at its place. But this one is also Dual-Range and has low and high. What will happen if that lever is in a position between that two? I ddidn't check this yesterday... This shouldn't be possible. As NoahDL88 writes, even the first Legacy engines have the same diameter. But I will pull the engine again on Tuesday and then we will see... Yeah, good idea, but the pedal works flawless as it should work. Thanks at all!

Yesterday my brother and myself swapped the engine in my EA82 back from carbed to MPFI, everything works fine, the engine fires on at frist try, but when I want to drive it out of the garage, nothing happens... :-\ Let me just list what cars were involved and what we have done so far: 1. My daily driver: 1989 EA82T SuperStation with 5 speed MT, permanent 4WD. 2. My old daily driver and donor car of that carbed engine: 1986 EA82 Wagon with 5 speed MT, part-time 4WD with push-button. 3. Donor car of that MPFI Engine: 1993 EA82 Station with 5 speed MT, part-time 4WD with Dual-Range. So bach in March, my EA82T engine breaks down (most likely head damage) and because no other options were available, we but that carbed engine in that car. Transmission and all other thins stayed in that car. We had some trouble to get the ignition working, but figured it out and everything worked fine so far. So, in August I bought a real cheap donor car with MPFI engine (I've posted it here somewehere) and drove it for about 400 km through half Germany and didn't notice any clutch problems or so. In fact the car runs very fine! And because next year I have to make an emission test and the MPFI works better in cold winter (I hate this semi-automatic choke), I wanted to swap back the carbed one to MPFI. So we pulled the carbed engine and pushed the MPFI one in the car. Since everything of that donor car worked as it should, we decided to insert it with its original clutch. But now, the clutch doesn't work! It just isn't engaging and always in the state as being depressed or in neutral/idling. So this whole thing is somewhat mysterious. We tried to adjust the clutch, but no success. I didn't expect such a problem and really don't have any idea why this happened. So, can anyone explain what could be the cause of this problem? I had the idea that the transmission shaft of that 1993 transmission is somewhat thicker and that my 1989 tranny now doesn't have a connection at all. But I didn't hear of any changes of Subaru in that way... So pulling the engine and swapping the clutch will be the thing to do if there isn't another solution of this. Some more work to do... :-(

Could be a dumb question, but where are those headlight relais? My right headlight is very dim, so I guess a failed relais is the cause as I read this here in many threads. Because I have at least 3 donor cars, I would have enough relais here, but I don't know how they look and where they are. Thanks!

So, the car is at home and I had to use my EA82T ECU. Too make it short: It works! But not perfectly... The engine fires on instantly, got no problems. But when accelerating, at some point there is very few power available but when getting after this point, It's fine and runs OK. The "check engine" light is on, will check the ECU code now I drove about 400 km with this ECU, so you can do it if no real replacement is existant.

So, the car is at home, I have repaired it first and then drove it home! Two things were damaged, the alternator and the ECU. Everything else is OK, also the fuseable links and fuses. The ECU looked like it works (with blinking and all), but the car won't fire on. I cleared the memory, but it had no effect. After installing my EA82T ECU, the engine fires on instantly without any problems! I will check this resistor... And for the alternator, I guess the voltage regulator is burned, but I will check this sometimes in the future. Ah, and by the way: Since I had no other alternator available, I used the old one from an EA81 which is now 23 years old and wasn't in service for at least 6 years. I works fine! Those Hitachi alternators are not sooo bad

Another cause that the car won't start could be a damaged ECU.

I've tested E50 (50% Gas and 50% Ethanol) here in Germany last year, and my EA82T MPFI (1989) works bad! He starts up fine, but there was no real power available, acceleration was nearly non-existant. I don't know how it works on carbed models, but I guess, it will work fine. Hmm, I'm should testing this...

Of course there is some rust (you will never see an EA81/82 in Germany without rust), but nothing serious! The whole car is in general in a very good condition. Hmm, I think I will also roll the fender lips to conceal the whole mess. Next year I have to make a refurbishment of the whole car because the general inspection has to be made and then I will check this odd thing in-deep. With my winter tires (175/70 R13) it's not important and hmm, it's only two months away. Thanks for all answers and ideas!

Not as far as i know. And it doesn't look so. I have also measured the distance between the wheel arch and the suspension strut and this distance is also identical on both sides, so it seems that averything is allright with the wheel arches... *shrug*

Last Saturday I finally managed to install my new 195/50 R15 "tires" and now I have a really big problem with the rear wheels: On the driver side, everything is fine, but on the passenger side, the tire touches the wheel arch when the suspension is really strained and the metall damages the tire. Today I have measured the distance between the tires and the chassis and my passenger-side tire is about 0.5 to 1.0 cm more distant from the chassis then my driver-side tire. I've also measured the distance betwenn the tires and the brakes and they're identical. So the whole wheel with brakes and so on is more distant! That's bad... The question is: Why is this so and - more important - how can I change this? I hope you understand what I mean? My english is not soo good...

Sounds good! And of course I will check the wiring first to be sure not to damage my precious ECU ECUs are rare here in Germany - as everything for those cars...

Hmm, if that ECU is damaged, will an Turbo-ECU work for the time to drive that damned car home? Look here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64033

The title says ist all: Will an Turbo-ECU (MPFI) work in a non-Turbo (also MPFI)? The Turbo car is built 1989 and the non-Turbo 1992 or 1993. This question is related to that thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=507459&postcount=1 The Turbo-ECU is currently in my car but it' not used anymore since the EA82T engine fails and there is currently a carbed EA82 installed. So I could pull it - when it's supposed to work fine - and push it in that other car to drive it home, about 250 Miles. And how fast can you change the ECU? I haven't done that yet... Thanks!

Oh, OK, I didn't think of that. Thanks

The ECU is a bad thing... Not that I really need it, but it will prevent me from moving that car home by itself. But why does the ECU get currency before the ignition is turned on? That doesn't seem to make sense imho. Anyway, it seems that I have to choose the more expensive method and use a trailer for that car.

I have recently bought an EA82 MPFI station at ebay for some replacement parts (especially the engine!). The car was cheap (about 55 Euro = 70 US$). The seller stated that the engine is OK, but the car won't start at the moment. After buying that car, he told me that he has connected the battery in the wrong way (positive and negeative were switched) and that now there is no currency anywhere in the car. He said that he don't really know what is damaged - and he won't search, I wouldn't also for 55 Euro All he knows is that there was some smoke after connecting the battery. Could it be so easy that just the three main fuses near the battery are gone? Or are there any bad damages to be expected? Thanks!