samneric

Welcome to today's viewing Bubbles are still there and I get what appears to be misfiring at 70mph. CEL flashed. Unless something broke or wasn't plugged in when re-assembling I'm guessing water in the cylinders. I reckong I'll buy a JDM when I get the money together - as long as I don't run it much - I still have my RX-7 for gorgeous mornings like I had this morning Steve

Maybe I should just hook up the exhaust gas test up to the overflow bottle after a run Steve

OK evening update. A little bit of stress is relieved. I got paranoid today so I decided to buy a combustion gas leak test kit. Performed the test - the water stayed blue So what ever it was, it wasn't combustion gases that are causing the bubbles (Unless I did the test wrong ) Anyway - mixed the magic concoction of coolant/water so it is EXACTLY 50/50. Followed your instructions on re-filling Fairtax. It is sitting in its cool-down phase now from your list. It did start overheating and the heat blew cold which happened on Sunday as well until I repeated the whole procedure a couple of times. One question I do have is: did I hook the heater core hoses up wrong. I presently have the uppermost engine hose (coming from the diagonal water pipe across the engine) going to the driver side of the heater core. The lower engine hose obviously goes to the passenger side. Is this correct?! Will repeat the steps once I've have something to eat... Steve

Sure JDM is the generic for all these motors from Japan. They have some wierd law that makes it hard for them to afford to run them after 45,000 miles or something like that - I am no expert but kinda get the gyst. Thanks for your link also - I can add it to my arsenal should I need it. Kinda clutching at straws with my current EJ25D right now in a last-ditch attempt to see if I will work for me. Steve

Righty-ho. Will try that tonight. I have also ordered a Subaru radiator cap which I will pick up tomorrow. No idea what the one I have on is. I bought and installed a Subaru thermostat as part of the HG job. One question with it I guess - are you supposed to put the gasket "around" the lip of the thermostat housing? The gasket I got had a slit in it all the way around that I presumed was for that purpose. Otherwise I could see you putting the gasket in the block then placing the thermostat on top of it - but that would seem awkward. Steve

Yeah, I need to start saying "reconditioning" because machining is only part of the process they did. Steve

I only used the surface conditioning discs on the block.... I had the heads machined at a shop.... Check out this thread... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=132115 I used the gasket set with the part number listed in this thread... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124451 Steve

BTW - I used an airtool with surface preparation discs ... these wouldn't take too much off the block surface would they??? http://www.sears.com/3m-3inch-scotch-brite-surface-conditioning-discs-coarse/p-SPM209382674P?prdNo=27&blockNo=77&blockType=G77 Steve

I just replaced the hgs on my existing EJ25 because they leaked - blew sounds so instantaneous - they had the issue with the material eroding away over time - took about 9 months before it got really bad. It overheated a few times before I started the job - never into the red though. Plus who knows how many times it overheated by the previous owner. I am making the assumption at this point that the block is warped. I had the heads machined/valves adjusted etc. Steve

OK cool - I have already spent $$$ on my current EJ25 so am a bit hessitant to shell out more but its only $220 or so for the re-seal kit so I'd go with that. I just had my heads machined at a cost of $600 so might want to swap those and the intake onto the JDM. Then again - maybe they were'nt flat or the block wasn't flat because I was *meticulous* at cleaning the mating surfaces and following the assembly instructions. I would have to have the heads double-checked before using them again. Argh - the agony. Thanks for the advice/stories Steve

There is one here... http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-EJ25-95-99-SUBARU-LEGACY-EJ25-DOHC-MOTOR-EJ25-DE-ENGINE-OUTBACK-FORESTER-/180900655603?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1e84f1f3&vxp=mtr If I remember correctly, there could be issues with the EGR... Steve

Well.. verdict's in... Lots more big bubbles and discoloured water. Its ************ed. I wish I'd have known before putting 2000 into it. Steve

Yes indeed! I had a buddy helping out who read and re-read the instructions and it was apparent from the first 90 degrees that it wasnt enough. Yeah, I filled the rad with 1 gallon of antifreeze and topped up with water - ran it then filled up from the vent side (which I suspect is filling the block because that return pipe (passenger side to to of rad) doesn't fill with water if you just fill up from the main inlet. I'm guessing that an air pocket from the block/heater core made it back to the rad after my first day's drive. We'll see today - just wanted to know if anyone else has got the big bubbles from an air pocket. Steve

Oh yes, used Subaru head gaskets (layered design) and followed the installation procedure from Haynes manual *religiously*. The final tightening being a number of degrees rather than a troque setting which I thought was bizzare - but did it anyway. Steve

Sure, its an '98 OBW with 224k miles on it (EJ25D). The initial symptoms I had (last year) were small bubbles in the overflow tank and overheating on long journeys. The over heats got more frequent and more and more water started getting pushed into the (overflow) bottle. It got to the point wher I could only drive 2 miles before overheating. I bought the engine re-seal kit and started work on replacing the HGs 3 months ago. I got the heads off and gave them to a machine shop to recondition. After 3 weeks I got them back and continued with my job. I finally got the engine back in and started it for the first time Sunday. I filled it with water and burped it once (filled rad with water/coolant from main inlet and from vent plug hole (passenger side)). When water came out of vent side during filling from main inlet I replaced cap and vent plug. Drove car to work today and repeated vent/main inlet refilling procedure when I got home. steve

I'm guessing English isn't your primary language?! Steve

Update after a day's trip to work and back (about 20 miles one way and LOTS of sitting). Not far from home and the needle rose to 3/4, then went down when driving. Got home and looked at the water bottle. Level was normal (not overflowing like before) but there were big bubbles. Let it sit and opened it up. Filled up to top on both sides and started it again. No bubbles. Was it just another air pocket that was blowing big bubbles out? I will check again when I get to work tomorrow. Concerned a little bit. Although I think I've read stories of bubbles caused by air pockets so not frantic - yet Steve

I'm about to replace the slave/hose on my '98 OBW because sometimes the peddle goes all the way to the floor, other times its half-way down. I believe there was a design fault on the ones from the factory. I'll let you know how mine goes when its done next w/e. Steve

Yeah, if it helps one more poor soul out of a fix, then... it is... "The Ultimate Subaru Message Board" !. We should print a secon wave of tee-shirts.. I got one of the first - now I need another! Steve

You know what it was?! It was my "friend" who was "helping out" and didn't plug the alternator plug in all the way That's why it started with a jump but then .... died within 10 secs... but all's well that end's well - my car's back :headbang: Steve

That was my theory overnight - but switched the ground over, hooked up the jump leads and BRRRRRUUUUM! Thanks a lot all Its awesome having you guys for knowledge/help Steve

Ah! that explains what pic #1 is. I must have put that L-shaped bracket on the wrong side as I put it on the same bolt that holds the harness plug bracket on the passenger side. That also explains #2 because that is where I grounded the battery cable. (it isnt the ECU ground because from what you described, I have that connected to the intake near the ignition coil). So... it should be starting... Damn - ho to trouble shoot this nightmare.... Steve

On the first, the bolt hole that I think something goes on is just behind the lifting lug bracket. I took the bolt out of it and used it to secure the battery ground in the second shot. I am wondering if I missed something that needs bolting to the hole in the first shot. The third shot is were I think the battery ground needs to connect to instead of where I put it in the second shot. I wonder if anyone can have a quick look at theirs and see?

Got it back together today but it isn't starting. Turning over with no attemp at ignition. Couple of questions first before I need to trouble shoot further... What should connect here? I had left a screw in it during dis-assembly but cant find what to connect to it.. After first fail, I realised engine earth wasn't connected I connected it here because I forgot where it originally connected: Should it have connected here? The machine shop removed all bolts I had left in so don't know if it should be here or not. I'm sure that the starting issues revolve around these questions - must be missing an earth somewhere.. Thanks for help! Steve