samneric

Normal wear and tear items. Not bad. Not sure if those percentages are used or available. Worst case scenario 1000 bucks.

Do y'all drop forged pistons in your sti's when you get 'em just in case or pamper them? If I bought one I know I'd be saving a little extra for aftermarket pistons for the POM. Steve

Ok, let me re-do this list with the *final version* after ordering the wrong valve cover gaskets (correct ones are underlined) and not knowing I needed to order 4 new half-moons (which didn't come as part of the Overhaul Gasket Set ). Steve Description Part#___________Qty Unit Price Price '11 Overhaul Gasket Set_________10105AA401______1___$210.16____$210.16_____ Valve Cover Gasket, RH New__13270AA082______1___$10.94_____$10.94______ Valve Cover Gasket, LH New__13272AA082______1___$10.94_____$10.94______ Valve Cover Gasket, RH Old__13270AA062______1___$12.20_____$12.20______ Valve Cover Gasket, LH Old__13272AA062______1___$12.20_____$12.20______ Spark Plug Gasket___________13293AA051______4___$7.28______$29.12______ Water Pump Gasket___________21114AA051______1___$2.90______$2.90_______ Thermostat__________________21200AA072______1___$13.87_____$13.87______ Thermostat Gasket___________21236AA010______1___$2.51______$2.51_______ Radiator Hose, Upper________45167AA020______1___$12.81_____$12.81______ Radiator Hose, Lower________45167AC010______1___$12.81_____$12.81______ Oil Pump O-ring_____________806919050_______1___$2.23______$2.23_______ Timing Belt/Water Pump Kit__GATES TCKWP277A 1___$285.00____$285.00_____ Radiator Air Plug___________45124AC000______1___$6.20______$6.20_______ Plug Cylinder Head__________11051AA070______4___$5.30______$21.20______ __________________________________________________________$621.37__

Nice - good bloke there!! Just came to realise - the machine shop didn't return the exhaust studs, nuts and those crazy half-moon plastic things Project delayed *again* while I wait on more parts... Steve

Got my heads back from the shop Wow! just look how CLEAN! this head is It looks like they sprayed it. Steve

Finally got these done. Final price is going to be $285 per head so that isn't as bad as I was quoted. Thank god - car goes back together this weekend. Steve

Thanks for all the advice.... I talked to the Subaru mechanics at our dealership and they said have the heads checked for flatness but they don't often warp due to their short length (two cylinders) and tall height. I didn't bother asking for their recommendation after that thinking it may not be entirely accurate - I got the impression from everyone on here that it happened a lot. Anyway - they are just an auto machine shop and they did say "If we get 5 Subaru jobs a year its been a busy one". I think I will try another shop next time. I got a reference from a bloke who works in our company's truck repair dept to try a diesel machining company... May call them at least next time. Steve

Yeah, they wanted $50 extra for the pressure test so it didn't do that. They also set the clearance by taking material off the stem or seat instead of changing the shims. Not sure what it is about Louisiana - maybe they don't do a lot of Subaru's so either naively over-rate their jobs or do so on purpose to "encourage" people not to take them DOHC heads.. Hate not having recommendations for this kind of work. Steve

I'm in New Orleans, used a company called "Harahan Auto Parts And Machine Shops", they needed 5 days to do the work, are charging me $300+ a head, still haven't finished after a week and now failing to call me with updates as promised. I feel ripped off. Am I justified in being pissed off? Steve

This is fascinating... Are you saying - the DOHC timing belt will fit a DOHC block with SOHC heads? Are there no issues with timing? The electronics "just work"? I find it hard to believe. Steve

Nice

Mine broke when I tried to unscrew it (may have happened to them). This is the part I ordered for my '98 Outback... Radiator Air Plug__________ 45124AC000______1__ $6.20______$6.20______ Not sure if its the same part for you - your pictures look a little different to my '98. Steve

Just watched this.... Fascinating Yeah you don't want a seal to blow. Apparently, with regular service they shouldn't blow - unless you go crazy with it on a drag-track (not in my near future). I guess this failure is comparable to a timing belt break on a Subie engine - Remedy seems to be new rotor/housing for the section of engine that failed. Steve

Yeah, forgot about the second rotor. Must admit I'm still Wankel-ignorant. Didn't know the apex-seals moved independently of the rotors. Steve

here too What did you use to paint it?

The symptoms I experienced were fascinating however... Looking back, the HG failure definately accelerated due to the straight water/corrosion issue. Will definately keep AF in it even though it will cost an arm and a leg to run it that way. My biggest problem was that I was working nights and weekends at work to finish a project and didn't have time or a replacement car to tackle the HG job. The good news is... when I finally couldn't drive it any more than 3 miles before it overheated, I was FORCED to buy an alternate vehicle. Luckily, I stumbled across this beauty that happened to be in my price-range You've gotta love the fact that its engine only has TWO internal moving parts.... No cams or timing belts to worry about here Steve

Gosh. All this remember will I next time my HG's go Naturally, I always run Antifreeze when it isn't pissing out all over the road after serveral miles of warm-up The trick to flushing the rad and heater core will be getting the flush fluid in there and cycling around to where it can take effect while the cooling system is open. Steve

I guess it comes down to the potential difference between that blade and the case. I guess the moral of the story is: Keep adding antifreeze when your head gaskets are going bad... Steve

so... (from wikipedia) The anode metal (water pump blade) dissolves into the electrolyte, and deposition is formed on the cathodic metal (aluminium casing). Wow - well, with the new HGs in I will naturally be adding antifreeze so that won't happen again. But how to clean the corrosion? Is there a radiator flush out there that anyone recommends? One that hopefully won't affect the new pump? Steve

Gosh.

Gosh. The thing about the water though.. I was filling it up so often it was "fresh" water... I quit putting anti-freeze in. It only turned that color in the last few months - almost as if the gases were reacting with something - and the metal Finns on that non-oem pump look like the candidate. Needless to say - I will be flushing both oil AND water after one trip when its back together.

Finally got to my HG job... Look at this POS...... and what it did to the color of the water jacket... Steve

I bought my compressor from Napa autoparts - I didn't buy a rebuild kit - that would have been a nightmare! Good luck with sourcing your parts - although I hope you can get a reman compressor rather than getting a kit. I remember buying a reman compressor for my Brat from Napa also (napaonline.com) Steve

Indeed it does :grin: And my car is QUIET again

Just took it to a local muffler shop... They cut the old joint off and welded one of these in its place... $79.99 fitted. Not tooooooo bad. Cheers, Steve