samneric

Thanks! Yeah, it took a long time for me to get parts from them last time I did work. I had problems with 1stsubaruparts because of a miscommunication with a credit card number so I am leaving them alone for a bit. I already changed the Oil Plate cheers! Did that when I changed my clutch last year There arn't any oil leaks from the engine - nothing major that drips anyway so that part looks good. Will leave the rear seal then! Steve

I was wondering that - I didn't find any reference to people changing it on any of the HG jobs posted on here. They must be strong enough?! Seems risky to me though! Steve

Decided to launch into the old EJ25 HG job. So far I have the following shopping list of part numbers: Description________________ Part#__________ Qty Unit Price Price Overhaul Gasket Set________ 10105AA401______1__ $210.16____$210.16____ Valve Cover Gasket, RH Old__13270AA082______1__ $10.94____ $10.94______ Valve Cover Gasket, LH Old__13272AA082______1__ $10.94____ $10.94______ Valve Cover Gasket, RH New__13270AA111______1__ $10.94____ $10.94______ Valve Cover Gasket, LH New__13272AA111______1__ $10.94____ $10.94______ Spark Plug Gasket__________ 13293AA051______4__ $7.28______$29.12______ Water Pump__________________21111AA110______1__ $95.12____ $95.12______ Water Pump Gasket__________ 21114AA051______1__ $2.90______$2.90______ Thermostat__________________21200AA072______1__ $13.87____ $13.87______ Thermostat Gasket__________ 21236AA010______1__ $2.51______$2.51______ Radiator Hose, Upper________45167AA020______1__ $12.81____ $12.81______ Radiator Hose, Lower________45167AC010______1__ $12.81____ $12.81______ Oil Pump O-ring____________ 806919050______ 1__ $2.23______$2.23______ Timing Belt Kit____________ Gates TCK304____1__ $225.00____$225.00____ Oil Pump____________________15010AA300______1__ $124.40____$124.40____ Radiator Air Plug__________ 45124AC000______1__ $6.20______$6.20______ __________________________________________________________ $780.89__ Wow, quite a price so far! Note I have two numbers for the Valve Cover Gaskets - Old and New - There were two for my year and the parts diagram specified the Old ones fitting engine numbers 285352 to 320927 and the New ones fitting numbers 064059 to 073353. I checked the number of my engine which is 023611 (Maybe this is a replacement engine). Maybe GenuineSubaruParts will be able to clear up the confusion my my VIN. Anyways just thought I'd run this list by folks for a quick vetting before I go ahead and order all these bits. Will post with progress as I get into the job. Steve

Thanks for the advice y'all. After weighing up the options (and learning that the knocking on startup is only piston-slap), I'm gonna tackle the HG replacement job myself and hopefully get some more life out of the old workhorse yet! I'm gonna start another thread with my experiences starting with the parts list I have gathered so far... Steve

Had my OBW since last August with no probs - I knew the HGs were bad because of the black soot in the water expansion tank. Figured I'd ride it until winter when I would tackle the hg job. Went on a 200 mile trip to Pensacola this w/e (awesome sailing!). Heat gauge started rising when I hit traffic - luckily I was near an exit so I bought two jerry cans and filled 'em with water and topped the rad up. Actually - I had filled it up before I left and snapped the top off the damn plastic plug that allows the passenger side of the rad to vent Got to Florida ok, filled it up again and the filled up half way home with no probs. Got back to New Orleans and the needle started to rise again. Stopped and filled it again - within 10 blocks the needle rose again. Stopped again on an incline and filled it up with lots more water. Got home and looked at the expansion tank again - water was now near the top and bubbling! Damn hg's blowing the water out I figure. So now I know I need a new engine - Even though the temp gauge never came close to the top I know the engine has a slight knock for 30-60 seconds everytime I start up from cold so I don't want to waste the time/money/investment on a hg job on an engine who's history I have no idea about. Left with a replacement... I don't want an EJ22 because I like the power (the EJ25 is a little sluggish with the A/C running already). Don't have the time to buy a JDM/Used EJ25 off of ebay and do a hg job. Risky also. I figure my best bet is a CCR rebuild - want the peace of mind... Just found Promar on ebay - longblock reman for $2900..... Also we have the JDM $1100 option! Is the concern here the EGR valve hole in the block??? Anyone else done this??? Questions, comments, concerns y'all??? Steve

That would be just silly See one of my previous posts about buying the A/C kit. A dryer is included along with the expansion valve, pag100 oil and A/C system flush. I just didn't post a picture of it all back together - didn't see the point. I can if you want Steve

Aha!! lol Steve

Cheers! You don't have a problem with access to the lower right bolt? You can't get a wrench in there and I couldn't get a socket on it because the fuel supply line is in the way.... Unless I am missing something really simple!!! Steve

I can see how you can take the lower-right compressor mounting bolt off if you have a 14mm universal socket. The universal adapter I used was too big to get past the fuel line. You can see the clearance in the photo of the compressor lines removed (6'th photo) - you have to get at the bolt that is to the right of the yellow dipstick handle. This is why I wanted to post this - so I could get feedback and arm people with knowledge of how to do this - thanks for your suggestion! Steve

Symptoms - The compressor was producing no compression/suction. The gauges read static pressure when it was running. I bought the compressor kit which means changing the expansion valve (evaporator out). I took the lines off so I could clean them with A/C flush. On this model you have to pull the alternator to get at the compressor bracket mounting bolts (you cannot get at the compressor - bracket bolts with it on the car - the fuel injection lines are in the way). I put new orings on every connection and coated them with pag100. One reason for all the photos was to show all these idiosyncracies. Steve

Hello all, Bought my OBW last year with a known A/C issue. Figured I'd wait till I'd saved enough money and the outbreak of summer before I fixed it. So last week, got the materials together and this weekend tackled the job. I haven't seen too many pictures of this job so I thought I'd add some for anyone who is about to do this for themselves (I love it when I can see a walkthrough with piccies before I start a job ). So here goes.. Step 1) - Evacuation. Step 2) Pull Vacuum. (The vacuum lasted all of 30 seconds ) Step 3) Check weight of freon captured. (11 ounces ) Step 4) Remove Evaporator Box. (Very easy job - the boffins who designed the car planned for simple evaporator box removal. Compared to my old Brat, this was a breeze) Step 5) Lines removed. (Engine shot) (Compressor) (Condenser Inlet) (Condenser Outlet) (Dryer) Step 6) - Compressor removal. (As you can see, had to take the Alternator off so I could remove the Compressor mounting bracket. Also had to undo left fan so I could get to belt tensioners etc) Step 7) - Look at components. (Evaporator) (Compressor and mounting brackets) (Lines) (New Compressor) Well, those are the photos. The job took about 10 hours because I wasn't rushing. Back together now and all is well. The only other thing to note is that the old compressor had a pressure switch on it which the new one didn't. I had to splice the two wires that went to the sensor together to get the compressor to start. Also had to start adding freon before the compressor would kick in. Hope the piccies help out! Steve

Excellent thread and suggestions. I have a '98 OBW 215k miles that was not blowing 100% cool when I bought it - Last August. The guy who sold it said it wasn't so it is a known issue. It got worse over winter and blows warm now. I put a can on freon in to no affect. I put my gauges on it yest - 100 psi on low and high. With the compressor hub spinning and without it spinning (ac on or off). I just ordered a new AC Compressor kit from napa inc the drier and expansion valve. Could it also be the evap leaking if I pull it out covered in leaves and debris? It definately has charge because it let out a hiss if I opened the gauge valve for a second. What are the number of causes for static pressure with the A/C on again???? Expansion valve stuck open? Comp not working? Steve

What's the latest on this? Curious now and thread has been silent for a while!!! Steve

I think they are thicker rather than bigger in diameter. Steve

.. for the first time in years.... Didn't realise this was Jackie-Chan's featured ride

The two times I've suffered from similar symptoms (stalling on idle) over my life of driving fuel injected cars, the cause has been as follows: A Vauxhall Astra GTE - A split vacuum hose. A Toyota Celica - Gummed up IAC Valve. With all the troubleshooting of the electronic management system so far prooving unconclusive, I'm guessing that the problem will end up being something mechanical - vacumm leak, blockage, dirt etc etc. Just my 10c Steve

I would like ya'lls opinion on this neat looking utility..... I'm a great believer in utilising the computer in my possesion rather than buying individual computers for individual tasks so when someone makes an interface to either usb/serial I get excited Anyways, let me know if anyone has ever used this or there is another, better option... http://www.nology.com/laptopdyno.html I would figure that looking at real-time graphs of the sensors would help out with lots of problems.... Steve

Bet you won't do that again... Backup Backup Backup!!! And never forget.... JESUS SAVES!!!!! Steve

I've been reading and am fascianted by this thread. I think its a great learning opportunity for everyone here - I've learn't a bunch already and am keen to learn more. That said, I would like ya'lls opinion on this neat looking utility..... I'm a great believer in utilising the computer in my possesion rather than buying individual computers for individual tasks so when someone makes an interface to either usb/serial I get excited Anyways, let me know if anyone has ever used this or there is another, better option... http://www.nology.com/laptopdyno.html I would figure that looking at real-time graphs of the sensors would help out here.... Steve

A family of soobs - nice!!!

The human relay!

Steven likes this.

Pic would be nice !!! BTW, after a lot more searching, I answered my own question and found this PDF with instructions http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4280 Steve

'98 OBW Are there supposed to be some??? When I turn on my headlights I only get dashboard backlights - the heat/cool slider is in darkness - can't see where I need to slide Steve

Thanks for this! I was about to post a question about these exact symptoms I thought a bulb had gone but hadn't - then I ran out of ideas - I will check out the front bulb tonight! (Already checked the rear which was fine) Must be a common problem because my front left is also dim... Steve