samneric

- best of luck

Not sure about Felpro or not but I know in the grand scheme of things.... 3 layer is better than '98 OEM. Next time I need to do a reseal on the engine.... 4 layer it is.... Steve

So I am still working on getting my '98 OBW back together following a tranny reseal. I can't wait to drive it and have been perusing the forums in the meantime, trying to learn about the dreaded HG problems so I can spot the symptoms if they occur. My latest learning was that I can determine which generation of HG's I have on the car by checking the exposed top corner. I have 210k on the odo so have been naturally apprehensive about which version is sealing my top-end. Good news is - While inspecting tonight, I noticed a rivet hole in the gasket - I HAVE 2ND GEN, 3 LAYER HGS!!!! :banana: There have been a lot of posts regarding the concerns of the HGS so I thought I'd contribute one of a positive nature Maybe start a new thread..... Which gen HG's are in your pocket! Steve

OK, I just got a reply back from the Subaru dealership I ordered my bolt from who said that the part I ordered (the one I mentioned earlier) was wrong and they gave me a picture to select a part number from. I will see if the part that is ordered is the same as the one from the tech article - prob is tho... Steve

FYI - The part# for the bolt is 35052AA031 - You accidentally listed the spring# twice Steve

UPDATE AND ANOTHER TIP!!!! Well, I now have the two front tranny halves back together Lessons learned by me.. 1) You can actually bolt the lower shaft bearing retainer on upside down if you have taken it off completely to replace the front axle-stub seals Don't do this yourselves people!! Its hard to tell its wrong until you have the two halves back together (sealed with rtv in my case ) - make sure you spin the retainer round 180 degress if its wrong - best option is to check by test-fitting the two halves together (without rtv ) and make sure all 4 bolt holes line up. 2) That bearing retainer thin metal gasket/spacer thing is a PITA! It makes getting your 4 bolts back in awkward - I sliced open my thumb trying to turn it so a bolt would go in. 3) The ring that front diff roller bearing rides on fell of the side of my tranny when I was knocking the old seal out - no probs - just put it back in carefully (tight fit). I thought I had messed something up at first because there was a lot of play in the pinon-diff (it would knock when turning the axles stubs back and forth) until I had all the tranny bolts torqed down properly. Again, not a prob but it scared me a little. All in all, it took me about 3 hours to get those halves back together - Gonna tackle joining the rear half back up next! Steve

UPDATE AND ANOTHER TIP!!!! Well, I now have the two front tranny halves back together Lessons learned by me.. 1) You can actually bolt the lower shaft bearing retainer on upside down if you have taken it off completely to replace the front axle-stub seals Don't do this yourselves people!! Its hard to tell its wrong until you have the two halves back together (sealed with rtv in my case ) - make sure you spin the retainer round 180 degress if its wrong - best option is to check by test-fitting the two halves together (without rtv ) and make sure all 4 bolt holes line up. 2) That bearing retainer thin metal gasket/spacer thing is a PITA! It makes getting your 4 bolts back in awkward - I sliced open my thumb trying to turn it so a bolt would go in. 3) The ring that front diff roller bearing rides on fell of the side of my tranny when I was knocking the old seal out - no probs - just put it back in carefully (tight fit). I thought I had messed something up at first because there was a lot of play in the pinon-diff (it would knock when turning the axles stubs back and forth) until I had all the tranny bolts torqed down properly. Again, not a prob but it scared me a little. All in all, it took me about 3 hours to get those halves back together - Gonna tackle joining the rear half back up next! Steve

OK all, I have just received my trans re-seal kit from Subaru - loads of washers and seals and stuff... Question is - after I change out the four external axle/driveshaft seals, are there any other seals I can easily replace while the tranny is in bits? I'm thinking the shift selector external seal???? I have loads of bits - just wonder where they all go?! Steve

OK all, I have just received my trans re-seal kit from Subaru - loads of washers and seals and stuff... Question is - after I change out the four external axle/driveshaft seals, are there any other seals I can easily replace while the tranny is in bits? I'm thinking the shift selector external seal???? I have loads of bits - just wonder where they all go?! Steve

No, I got it from Napa - cost me 95+tax. I did have my old one re-surfaced but the machinist mentioned that it was a little bit warped. I didn't want to take any chances so I bought a new one. The clutch on my Brat judders sporadically and I don't want a repeat of that on my OBW. Better safe than sorry me thinks! Can't wait for the tranny seal kit to come in so I can get it back together. I haven't even driven it properly since I bought it and its about time now! Steve

New pics Nice shiney new flywheel and pilot bearing (a tad better than my old bearing ) The usual suspect - oil separator cleaned up and ready for new part. Back of tranny off. Side of tranny off. Gubbins out Just waiting on new parts so I can re-assemble... Steve

I'm as confused by all this freeze-frame data as the rest of us.... However, I just found that Wikipedia (again) is my friend http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor Steve

I'm doing the same job on my '98 OBW - but only because the tranny is leaking oil. I guess you've already figured out which approach I've taken Steve

Nice! Thanks

Yeah, the simple math is scary (EJ25 - EJ18 = EJ7!) EJ7 - That is quite a load you are putting on your tranny! I heard that a lot of people had problems with their wrex's due to putting EJ25's on an EJ20?! tranny. Steve

Cheers! In it goes then I had my old one re-surfaced btw - he mentioned that it was a "little" warped so I figured screw it, I'm gonna be safe and buy a new one. Steve

Hi, I just bought a new flywheel for my EJ25 but double checking the NAPA part number, it is for the EJ22. Is there really a difference???? The product data for this flywheel also says it has 6 bolt holes (which it doesn't) Steve

Oh and just one note: Don't follow my lead and assume that the rear cover is this - it isn't It is the flat piece of metal on the top... I suppose it is a COMPLETE new gasket set - lucky that is what I have on the way from 1stsubaru parts.... Steve

Oh and just one note: Don't follow my lead and assume that the rear cover is this - it isn't It is the flat piece of metal on the top... I suppose it is a COMPLETE new gasket set - lucky that is what I have on the way from 1stsubaru parts.... Steve

Glaze it is then! I did notice the clutch slipping when in 5'th gear and going from about 60 to 70 with eagerness. I guess this is the early stages of slip because it didn't do it at low speeds. So the glaze is nothing to do with gear oil getting on the clutch plate??? Steve

Yeah, got a new pilot in the clutch kit! Me thinks it's the problem behind my leaky tranny Steve

Thank you PhotoBucket!!

I have an EJ25.... Rockauto has them for 65.... I will try carquest.... Steve

GD, Napa is showing a stepped flywheel for the EJ25: # Flywheel Teeth : 124 # Flywheel To Crankshaft Mounting Holes : 8 Flywheel O.D. : 11.888" Flywheel Step : +.002" The EJ22 is listed as flat..... # Flywheel Teeth : 124 # Flywheel To Crankshaft Mounting Holes : 6 Flywheel O.D. : 12.384" The one on my car has 8 holes so I assume it is stepped.... kinda looks like it... I will post a piccy if I find out how... (do I need to use a free piccy website to show piccies here?) Steve

Damn!! Just looked at prices of a new flywheel: 1stSubaruParts - $280 SubaruGenuineParts - $204 (with discount) Napa - $97 Machine shop me thinks!!! I don't know where you're gonna find one for 50 bucks:confused: Steve