samneric

Actually, I'm changing the rotors as well so I assumed the calliper was going to have to come off completely. Yeah though, next time when I do just the pads, it should be real quick! Steve

Mine is more like diet coke so its prolly time for me also Yeah, it is duel-piston. Steve

I'm about to do my pads/rotors on my '98 OBW. Do you have to rotate the pistons in like on my Brat??? Steve

If its slipping, did you tighten the cable too much to where it is trying to disengage the clutch when driving??? Steve

The guilty suspects....

Poor quality clutch parts??? Steve

UPDATE - Both ball joints are now out and the pinch-bolt threads have been re-tapped :banana: The PB-blast into the chiseled-knuckle, left over night and the pry-barred approach cracked it Now I clean it all out, anti-seize the hell out of it then re-assembly continues after a couple of days delay Steve

Royal Purple in my Brat. I resealed it 2 years ago and has been fine. Concur that it is thinner than regular oil and its cleaning properties will clean out any gunk that may be helping keep a currently leaking engine sealed. I switched to RP on another high milleage vehicle and it brought in a HG leak. Not saying it was the cause but it sped up the process... Steve

The spend most of its life in MD, then SC, then LA (about 2 months) I reckon it was the MD time that did it!! Steve

The only tool I dont have is the cutter - when I get one I'll defo try your technique! Steve

Update - Ball joint #2. Tried the air chisel on it - end up chiseling off any lips I hammered a chisel between the ears and pumped PB blast in there. Will leave, come back and re-try chisel and then if that fails do the pry bar technique again. My advice: TREAT THIS JOB AS A TWO DAY AFFAIR!!! That way you won't have dashed expectations like I did. I'm not that bothered now I know where I stand with it... Day 1 - Wheels off, spend the day carefully trying to remove the pinch bolt without snapping it... search forums for techniques. Then at end of the day, (when bolt is out!), hammer a chisel between the ears of the knuckle. Hit it with PB Blaster and let soak overnight. Day 2 - Try all techniques to get the hopefully a little looser balljoint out. Steve

I believe the socket was a 14mm. Which is theory all you need Then on standby (if the bolt doesn't move easily first go) you need - 1) a propaine torch to heat the bolt threads area of the knuckle - will damage the ball joint boot but you are replacing anyway. 2) a can of PB Blaster to get in the crevices and derust the joints. 3) A chisel to separate the ears of the knuckle (carefully - I only hit the chisel in between - no sideways hitting once its in) You should see a slight movement (not even a gap) which is enough to get the pb blaster up in there. 4) a punch and hammer to hit the heated bolt and break it loose (there was a thread on NASIOC I read about using the heat/punch combo). 5) I needed a c-clamp to hold the control arm to the ball joint so I could get the castle nut back on ( i had taken it off to replace my axles - you don't need to take it all the way off yourself - just loosen it) This list is getting long! - Basically you will need a socket set because I had to take the bolt of that links the sway bar to the control arm so the arm could drop enough - then theres the castle nut etc. I'd also search on the board for other peoples troubles and see what they did and used to get it done. Good luck!!! Steve

Side??? Not sure what you mean? Steve

Lol! No I won't My problem was using my air tools on it. It didn't budge for at least 10 seconds of air tool. Then it started turning and I was like "Hurrah!". Then the bolt came out sheared and I was like "Boo!". The other side came out fine because it was covered in axle-boot grease I have new bolts that came with the new ball joints but now I must seek out longer tapping bits that can clear the first ear of the knuckle. Or just put a longer bolt in and stick a nut on the end. Steve

Yeah, mine has 209K on it. I have gotten one off now - I used a chisel to separate the ears. I am always careful with those because way back when, my dad told me that they are cast iron and can break easily. After the chisel I sprayed in PB blast and left it. Came back and used a breaker bar from both front and back directions - finally came off. The other side still needs the chisel and PB blast treatment. I did bend my breaker bar trying to pry it before this. My pickle fork is an air tool attachment and isn't wide enough to go around the ball joint housing. Its good for separating from the control arm though. I guess I can buy wider and thicker pickles because that is what is needed for that approach. Steve

I do have a tap and die set but the bit wasn't long enough - maybe just go with the bolt and nut approach Cheerz. Steve

Grrrr. I thought this was gonna be my last day putting my OBW back together. Just replace the ball joints while I'm at it... Yeah right! Broken one of the pinch bolts - got pissed off and drilled most of the rest of it out. There is still some left in there... what now.... new knuckle???? Haven't even got the ball joints out of the knuckles yet - Have been reading here and looks like a pickle fork is the way to go here... Annoyed Steve

Good thing that cable has a plastic plug on it then Yeah, my PE teacher from high school taught is all the Principle of KISS Steve

Do you know what it was after all that???? The damn cable from the battery to the fusible link box came unplugged Must have been all those times I took the battery out to have it recharged when the alt died last time. Wiggled lose over time. The volt gauge is hovering around or slightly half way so I guess this is just higher until the battery is recharged from the start... I will keep my eye on it. Still, at least I don't have to spring for a new alt this time Steve

Aha! forgot about those links ..... Just had it towed home..... The first AAA guy did a batt test ans said that was OK.... we checked and replaced a blown Batt fuse (15a) but still dead.... fusable link - rings a bell - must have gone... But what caused it..... will read and try all options presented in the thread when I have daylight and tools handy - thanks all... Steve

4) - I usually buy the most expensive ones I can find at napa - prob not this one 3) I thought my amp was doing this so I disconnected it last time the alt went. Maybe something else in the circuit is bad and shorting causing load???? 2) I may be borking the bearings. I always thought I had to get it as tight as I could 1) VR Sensor line - is that in the alt? How to test for this??? Steve

While out last night. Turned the key - nothing. Not even a light on the dash. Battery die in like 3 hours while I was away???? I've never seen such strange circumstances - usually battery loses power over a period of journeys. Noticed the volt meter was hovering up slightly above the halfway line a few days ago but didn't get near red. Bad alt??? This is like the 3rd alt that I've put in there - the last just 2 months ago - this is getting expensive in alternators :-\ Steve

Phew! Thank you, you're a life-saver! I was about to take the transmission off and measure the flywheel and clutch housing thicknesses I've never had a hydro clutch before so was in unchartered territories Anyways, on with the re-assembly :banana: Steve

Just got my tranny bolted back onto the engine following a clutch change - bolted the clutch lever cylinder back on - release lever seemed to have a lot of play. Got in car and pressed clutch peddle which is almost to the floor with very little travel in it. Does this tighten up when everything gets bolted back together and the car is on the ground??? I sure hope so! Steve

Someone already posted the evidence me thinks... http://allwheeldriveauto.com/the-wrong-subaru-head-gaskets-in-seattle/ Steve