samneric

I need the intermediate pipe myself. Tried googling a few variations of "motion auto" but came up blank Did find this though... http://www.exhaustwarehouse.com/index.cfm?display=prod_info_list.cfm&id=1769&unitprice=57.498 Steve

Hey all, I have a Hitachi dissy on my Hitachi carbed 4WD Brat. Been working on my A/C system and whenever I engage the compressor, the timing retards to after TDC, the engine runs rough then dies. I confirmed this with a timing light. This happens *every* time. I thought it was a dieing compressor so I switched in the one (and all the brackets :-\) from my spare Brat. When this happens I have to unscrew the dissy mounting bolt, lift the dissy, advance the rotor by one tooth and re-setup the timing. This can't be normal and was wondering if anyone else has had issues with a distributer losing its timing?? I hope this is a dissy issue and not the dissy drive gear on the crankshaft. Pulling the engine again after 3 months of solid work on the car is definately surplus to my personal requirements.... Steve

You sell many vehicles privately ? I'd have to be further out than Pluto to consider buying a car that I hadn't at least driven down the street without the tranny dropping out Steve

Yeah, I wonder how big the cracks in the console are I'd be tempted to buy for parts but the price is a little high. Plus my other Brat came from Florida and is completely rusted out underneath. Carb - How about a Road Trip ! Steve

I'm glad your weber is running well. My Hitachi is doing surprisingly well considering the engine RPMS went while spraying carb cleaner around it's various gaskets. I was thinking of swapping out for a weber just because I *NEED* an OEM solution to my fast idle needs - I have a new A/C compressor and dryer on order and want the idle speed increasing when its engaged. The current vacuum diaphragm actuator is toast and I have SCOURED the web looking for a replacement. I don't know why there isn't a solution for this already - I guess there arn't enough subes in the South. Anyway wondered if you know of a suitable Fast Idle solution for the weber???? I'm current looking into an electric solenoid from Grainger with a fabbed up bracket and lever.... If it happens, I will definately post project progress on this forum because there is currently 0 solutions to A/C idle issues here... Steve

If I'm not mistaken, that is the vacuum supply line that goes through the thermo (reed) valve in the airbox and on to the vacuum actuator on the airbox intake that opens up exhaust heat into the air supply while the engine is cold. I don't have a weber so as far as I know that carb doesn't need the hot air so you would need to seal up the vacuum source so your engine runs smoothly. I'm not sure why there is oil in it?! Maybe it got sucked in from the copious amounts that were evident in the box. In the meantime, I just learned the "carb cleaner" trick this week and helped me find several vac leaks that were causing my engine to run poorly.. If its not running well, I highly recommend this (new found to me!) technique... Steve

Good Luck! Are you planing on doing a repair? Steve

Just a coupla hours down the road from me.... Steve

Turbone hasn't had the opportunity to come down here and help out with my car but Kudos for an awesome avatar And all the advice given to me and others... Steve

What I learned after my wreck is as follows: Ultimately, the frame needs pulling back into shape on a rig at a shop. This would (hopefully) get the kink out of the passenger pillar. Unfortunately, my accident happened right after Katrina, the city was still in chaos and all the body shops were backed up with smashed cars from all the wrecks caused by the city's general upheaval. No-one was willing to spend the time just straightening the frame so I could get replacement panels and fix it up in my own time. If you can find or know someone who can do this cheap, this is your primary option. Get the frame straightened to spec, then find replacement panels and parts from either junkyards or peeps on this board. If you feel the car will be too weak, or if option 1 isn't available, option 2 would be to strip the front end of the car (engine, tranny out etc), panels off and then cut off the frame rails. Obtain new ones from a donar car (maybe someone kind enough on the board) and weld (or have welded) new rails on and finish the repair as per option 1. Option 3 - (My route) was to just pull the impacted pieces back roughly into shape using whatever safe method you can adopt and then have it fixed properly at a later date. I spent a bunch of time trying to press the body back into shape with no success (the only piece that DID work was the frame rail that was kinked - it's now mostly straight after I had pressed the front end of it down with a jack under the kinked piece). You will probably have some suspension pieces to replace. I ended up changing the control arm and even the crossmember as the control arm mounting had twisted. These mechanical jobs are relatively easy and parts are available from friendly people on the board (luckily I have a spare non-running Brat that I took a lot of stuff off (the bumper etc)). I hope this helps - I know it sucks to be in this situation because you are thrown into it with no way of controlling how it came to be. I've added more pics of the repairs I made to my website... http://www.alonzostreet.com/steve/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=620 Good Luck! Steve

Dude, I feel your pain.... This was my Brat the Day after I had it shipped from Arizona ($600) where I had won it on Ebay ($3000)... ..and this is the DAY after that following an incident where a dump truck pulled out on me... (More shots here http://www.alonzostreet.com/steve/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=584) The truck driver got a ticket which was little consolation.... I towed it to a number of body shops who wouldn't touch it. I got about $2500 back from the insurance and bought it back off them. With the help of my spare Brat and some friendly people on the board, I got it back up and running again (Still squished at front but drivable). I even had an offer from Caboobaroo to send me a whole new front end (frame rails included) from a scrapped car of his. I will do that later when I have more time. One thing I would recommend is that you watch for water leaks around the windshield - the force of the impact bent my passenger side front pillar which let water in... I ended up running a bead of strong black waterproof sealant each side of the windshield gasket and then covering that up with all-weather masking tape... Seems to work so far..... Here is a shot in its current state, after a little help from my friends Steve

Sounds great What kind is the comp? Hitachi or the other one? Is it R134 already? Do you also have the carb throttle kick-back lever???? Steve

WOW! have you got more pictures? Steve

Carefully pry the star off with two flat-headed screwdrivers under each side. Discon Neg Bat first, of course! Steve

No timing belts, should have said. Tis an EA81 with hitachi carb. Have priced a reman comp and dryer. Will get them ordered this week. Need a new carb as well. When spraying carb cleaner about the vac lines and carb, there was definately a lot of rev action going on when cleaner hit the carb. I hear people mention that the weber is just as much of a pain as the Hitachi - what exactly is the major complaint with them? Steve

So WHAT is that on top of the intake?????? Two carbs that funnel into one intake hole??? Steve

Just replaced the fuse in my A/C system and hooked up the belt to run the compressor and switched it on.... Derlummmm - Engine stalled.Tried starting again with out the A/C and the car ran very poorly, maybe 2000 rpm with max throttle.Figured the timing was out - it was. I advanced a cog and got the timing set up again. A/C on - same thing.I disconnected the A/C belt and tried turning the inner shaft with hands. Very hard to turn.Has anyone seen this before with a compressor and could it cause the dissy to jump a tooth?????? I find it hard to believe that a strong load could cause the dissy to mess up...Gonna look around for a new comp/dryer etc...Steve

Just added my Green-Gloop today Shift those synchros. Realized my gear shifting problem is also related to a clutch that bites at the full extent of the peddle press Will adjust tomorrow and relax knowing the cocktail is sticking to those synchros...... FYI, bought the RedLine online and the other two from PepBoys. Steve P.S. Has anyone tried servicing their transmission? I swap in a low-milage one then replace the seals on my current one.......

Thanks Frank, I imagined that was the kind of gasket that connects the manifold to the head.... but my issue is connecting the Y-Pipe to the manifold...... I have bought some new bolts and washers so I will try using those with the flat gaskets that came in my kit (pictured above) ...just wanted to know if there was a ring in there as well - just a flat sealing surface doesn't seem right to me.... Steve

Wow, that tire looks bolder than a rare eagle!! Looks like it was time to replace anyways...Unless you were racing on slicks Steve

Yes, I have the (I guess Iron) manifolds with the metal pipes that lead up to a silencer and the rest of the affair. At the moment, I just have this piece between the manifold and Y-Pipe: I have always had to use a ring gasket like this: So I need both huh? Didn't see the ring in the exploded view of the exhaust in the FSM. I went out and bought some new stainless washers, lock washers and nuts. It only has nuts on at the moment. The Y-Pipe is connected to the tranny mount as expected and also to the rear exhaust section with the spring loaded bolts. Steve

http://www.cvaxles.com

Sell choc-ices and popcicles to the kids for that additional income boost Steve

Sweet! I'm jealous. I have a EJ205 engine from my wrecked WRX that I'm itching to put into something from the 80's.... Steve

Cheers! One more symptom I notice while running it (and after disconnecting the exhaust from the manifold to lift the engine and remove a bolt that dropped into the timing hole of the bellhousing ).... The exhaust gaskets (from felpro kit with metal reinforced centers) had black smoke stains on them - I guess from a poor seal - on the rear side of the engine. I can hear them blowing again now that its running. Are we SURE there is only a flat gasket that goes between the manifold and y-pipe? Shouldn't there be some kind of ring gasket that goes in there also???? Would this leak cause a lack of back pressure and lead to poor engine idle??? I know the rear exhaust silencer has just come unwelded and is rattling around (can hear that also) so I guess I am now in search of a new exhaust...:-\ If I need to invest in a new pipe, I'd rather get one that sends out the sweet rasp of the boxer - Note "sweet rasp", not "Loud and Abnoxious Boy Racer thunder". Anyone got recommendations on a y-pipe to rear section that they like??? Lots of questions!! all advice appreciated! Steve