samneric

I have a parts washer to keep all the splashes contained but I just sprayed the heads with degreaser, let them soak 20 secs then used a bathroom scrubbing brush and water to get the majority of grease off. I did the same with the block except I cleaned it on the hydrallic table with newspapers underneath. Then I used a brass wire wheel on a drill to get the shine going on For the gasket surfaces I used an air driven buffer with gasket prep pads (medium with light pressure applied to get the gasket and surface imperfections off) and then finished up with fine pad to polish and then a wipe over with acetone prior to reassembly. It was a well mainained car - The rocker covers were covered in oil which kept them from rusting to badly - they even have the original "Don't Adjust the Valve Clearances" stickers on them The car spent most of its life in Arizona so its relatively rust free. Need to keep on top of that down here in Nawlins due to the torrential downpours and humidity we have. Steve

* Bump * New photies added.... Engine is back in... just received two reman axles from cvaxles so will be popping those in tomorrow then hopefully...... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87569 Steve

Clutch you say? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87569 Steve

Excellent work! Looks like a show room car - can't wait to see the interior and exterior painted. I have been wanting to learn welding at my local community college but have a number of projects I must finish before I free up some spare time... How long have you been welding? Where did you learn? What is the learning curve???? You may be interested in a fab show from the UK I recently took inspiration and laughs from..... http://isohunt.com/torrents/%22chop+shop%22?ihs1=2&iho1=d&iht=3 Steve

There wasn't anything wrong with the engine before the dismantle (except the pinging that cleared up with 93 octane). Does TOD sound like pinging? I was just curious if mixing up the lifters was going to cause problems so I could have an answer if it starts making new noises when I get it running again. Steve

My lifters fell out when dismantling my engine (tilt this way, then that) - my own ignorance. Might an EA81 experience the same symptoms and if so, what is the cure? New Lifters? Also, I am not sure what the Tick of Death sounds like. My Brat's engine rattled under load at low rpms until I put higher octane gas in it (I guess timing is advanced). Does this TOD sound like valves rattling? I do know that a couple of my exhaust valves have a lot of play in their guides.... Steve (P.S) Didn't mean to hi-jack the thread, can start another if need be. Steve

* Bump, new photos can be viewed by following the first post in the thread * http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87569 Steve

Just replaced the orings. Come to think of it, the internal rotating pieces did show evidence of quite severe scoring so I'll have to pop out and order a new one from napa when its back together. [Edit] Whoa! Napa doesn't carry them and I found this one for $128 http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BAR&MfrPartNumber=0280248 Good job my tax refund just came in :cool: Steve

Nice, and I'm especially fond of the groovy engine stand

Thanks! Lots of blood, sweat and blood went into it I'll give the Menalto Gallery a go. I am using ZoomMedia Gallery at the mo because it plugs into Mambo. Steve

Yea-ah! I have been uploading all the photies to my web site so my dad can keep up-2-date and I will be taking more as I go along. You can find them here (the 01-09 are copies of some of the others in the folder)... http://www.alonzostreet.com/ftp/Vehicles/Brat%20White/200K%20Service/ Steve

Just checked out your EA82T photies - you got a shine going on your motor also :clap:

Hey all, Had to change the clutch on my Brat so I figured I'd clean up the motor and replace gaskets/oil seals while it was out.... A few photos for all that are interested..... (Edit - Following TheSubaruJunkie's advice, all photos can now be viewed on my website - Updated as work progresses...) http://www.alonzostreet.com/steve/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=408 I have a cool little avi file of the pistons doing their thing while the crankshaft is in motion. I will probably upload to my website when I've got it edited.... Steve

I'm servicing my ea81 and have the heads off and valves out. The exhaust valves didn't have existing oil stem seals but the felpro kit I have has 8. The valve guides stick up more on the exhaust compared to inlet. Will the oil seals fit on the exhaust guides? Do I need to add them? They all look the same shape to me. TIA, Steve

WOW! I don't think I have read such a condescending and sarcastic response to a reasonable question! (You said you were tired so I figure you're appologising ahead of time ) Anyway, I just switched Royal Purple 75W90 into my tranny and will let you know how it goes when my new clutch is in and I've driven for a while. I figured that Royal Purple would be enough to clean out the crap from my tranny as they do use additivies to help clean as well as lube - you should have seen the gloop that came out when I drained the old fluid It was like a pouring a delicious pint of Guiness for the first 30 seconds before the clear synthetic that was in there started pouring out.... Back to your question about flushing a 200k tranny.... I'm not sure if subie Trannys are similar but when I switched my 250k GMC engine oil over to Purple, the cleaning and thining effect of the new fluid did find the holes that were about to be in the gaskets and oil seals. One engine in pieces later.... So I agree that it needs to be flushed but if subie trannys are the same as GMC V8 engines, I would be ready to replace the seals also. Keep us posted with the Purple - I'm going to try the ATF mix in mine when its back together to see if it will help the Purple clean out the crap in my box... Steve

GD's thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86141 P.S. - Can someone sell me an EGR Valve from an SPFI? Or is it different on an EA81? Starting to get a little off the clutch track, but here is a picture with the flywheel/bellhousing (and intake manifold for my job!) removed. You can tell why the seal would leak if old - there woud be a lot of oil splish-splash around those Crank/Cam gears... Steve

Just to share in the fun, I'm changing my clutch as well... Plus changing out the water pump (started leaking), oil seals, and head gaskets. My Tranny had the leak near to the drive shaft also. Gonna check at napa and see if they have a tranny seal. My rear seal was also obviously leaking as there was lots wet oil at the seal and lots of asbestos/oil mixture at the bottom of the bell housing. Did you take a micrometer to the thickness of the clutch plate ? That's my next quest of curiosity..... Now to deal with removing all the anti afterburn stuff that GD recently wrote an article on... Steve. (Ho yes, one question based on my naivity of clutches, are the springs on the clutch disc there to take up some of the shock of torque upon engaging????)

ATF through the intake? Wow, I've never heard of that before either. Does it do a better job of cleaning carbon than carb cleaner???? Steve

There is an 83 FSM scanned in and hosted here courtesy of Mr Mike Shoup... http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/ Steve

See my recent post here about the clip... My '86 Brat has one but my '85 doesn't... I think that it should be in the clip if you have one - I think the only reason people recomend routing under the heater hoses is to stop the cable from moving around when the peddle is pressed... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=712706&postcount=2 Steve

So I swapped out my clutch cable at "Lunch Time" (2 hours).... Did anyone mention that applying the spring clip to the peddle end is a PITA? !? ! BTW.... Is it supposed to take a couple of adjustments to get the play out of the cable? I tightened it on the car as per directions and by the time I put everything back together and started to head to work, I couldn't get reverse! I adjusted it again (was well slack after a couple of tugs while trying to get reverse). Was great when I set off then as I got about 5 miles I found I have to push all the way to the floor again to get in reverse. I guess the cable stretches a bit when new. BTW - on my '86 Brat, there is a clip as mentioned in another post that routes the cable "Above" the heater hoses and steering linkage. My peddle seems hard to push down and don't know whether that is due to an aging clutch or the rather twisty journey the cable takes if it is routed under the heater pipes..... Steve

** Never mind this thread, I was wafting around recent posts and discovered all answers here: ** http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html Search first - dirrr ----------------------- I think I need to adjust the clutch cable on my '85 Brat because I have to push my foot to the floor to stop the gears grinding when going into reverse. The haynes, and my 1984 FSM manual describe a return spring on the clutch release fork but my car has a cable that runs along to a spring loaded throttle style assembly on the brake master cylinder..... Is this where I disconnect the return spring??? What is this contraption for and why is it on the master cylinder?? Steve

Switched starter/solenoid over from spare Brat... Cranked right up - no more clickety click !!!!!!!!!!!! :banana: Glad to put this thread to bed Now, new solenoid..... $444 from Napa Steve

I like the Diagram, thanks! Yes, you got what I was trying to say.... I appologise for the confusion, I like to understand things from a "way things work level" so in reference to in and out I was talking about electron (current) flow as marked in green here: Hanyways, Following an incident where I got stranded out and about, I took some tools and charged battery out to my car the next day. The lights on the dash and all other components lost power and came on sporadically esp one time I moved the battery around. I tightened the bolts securing the battery-to-starter motor cable to the terminal clamp and at least got everything back on again. Still no luck starting but I figured I had a bad connection on the new starter cable terminal clamps so I planned on buying a new starter cable and engine to battery cable so make sure there was enough current getting to the starter. I started pushing the car to a place where I could leave it until I could get it towed and luckily some passers-by helped me to bump start it. I got it home and decided to first try swapping the heavy duty gauge wires from my spare suby onto the DD. It will turn over with plenty of power now although I think all the twisting of the ignition key has worn something out because I have to turn the key all the way and then release it slightly to get the starter cranking... Might try swapping in the starter solenoid from my spare Brat to rule out mal-function in the high-current side of that relay. Thanks for help y'all! Steve