samneric

Cheers! Will get back at it Steve

Hi all, I'm switching the front axles from my donor Brat to my DD only the damn spring pin got stuck in the axle stub so I ended up thinking I could just leave the inner housing stuck to the gearbox and pull out the driveshaft so I cut the boot clamp off ready.... Anyways, after calming down and looking at it again today, I managed to get the pin out (a size 13/64 punch was $6.99 well spent!) and need to secure the boot back to the inner housing. So I bought a 4" hose clamp (screw type). My question is: will this hold the boot on with all the spinning it has to do or am I better off finding another solution???? I can get another boot kit if need be when I get some more cash... Steve

My '85 Brat came with the "Pimp-out-my-ride" fluffy carpet over dash option. I ventured under there once to the growl of the dash crevice monster. Yanked my fingers away pretty sharpish and dropped the cover back down. I'm sure one of the angry mouths had teeth. Steve

Brill! I'll check out yours right now... Thanks for the ADF offer. I have one at work also so I was planning on firing that puppy up - even does the double sided - woo hoo! Do you want to host my '84 when I get it done? Steve

Hey everyone, Having had a number of smaller issues with my Brat to deal with lately (most recently, the blower motor not coming on when I turn the switch), I'm coming to discover that the information found in my Haynes manual and even Alldata (damn expensive software that pro mechanics use) is either incomplete or in the worst case scenario - Completely Wrong! Having spent valuable time running around in frustrated circles using these publications, I have found that the solution typically comes after biting the bullet and getting my head around the more technical detail in my copy of the FSM (which came with the car). Hey! A circuit diagram showing the correct wire colors, relay locations AND the 20A fuse I needed to check to get my blower working. So this morning I began to imagine the frustration sube owners must feel when trying to troubleshoot problems (esp electrical) if they don't have the FSM for their car. "Share the wealth", that's what I say! Considering the pages of my FSM are already falling out, I'm contemplating sacrificing my book in the name of scanned online information that we can all use! I know there is an EA81 service manual already out there with the engine stuff in...but what about the rest???? Has anyone attempted such a mamoth quest before??? Is there likely to be a barrage of litigation following the hosting of an on-line copy somewhere we can all find it???? Opinions are welcomed and comtemplated before embarking on this voyage of scan-machine manotony.... Steve

OK so here is the skinny... I asked my local dealer for a part number on the FICD actuator. He understood what the component is because he has been with them a long time and used to work on the older cars. The problem is that he couldn't find the piece on any parts diagrams and he went on to explain why: Back in the 80's, the subes didn't come across from Japan with air conditioning systems - they were all added by the local dealers on request when they got here. The upshot of this is that there were several different A/C systems installed by different manufacturers. Mine (and yours by the sound of it) turns out to be a Hitachi (label on the compressor). So it is unlikely that the sube dealer ever stocked replacement parts for these systems because they are in effect aftermarket installations. My parts man said that even if they did have them lying around someplace in the past, SOA periodically offer dealers a "parts buyback" option where they offer to buy back all un-sold parts . As a result my dealership no longer keeps older generations parts on hand. He recommended I call Hitachi with the SOA A/C System part number that is stamped on a plate under the hood. I called a Hitachi Automotive Products tech guy who said that they no longer make A/C components. I guess we are now left either finding parts from junkyards, trying to get some kind of universal vacuum actuator from another manufacturor (I did find some references online) or attempting to find a similar sube actuator still in production that can be jerry-rigged to do the same job... Anyone else have a solution to fixing broken A/C components - someone must have had this issue before.... Steve

Will do, Just found a vacuum diagram on AllData that has the component named F.I.C.D actuator. The FICD stands for Fast Idle Control Device. I'll call my dealer tomorrow and and see if they have any. I have scoured the web for that part and couldn't find it so far. I just pulled the air cleaner off my '86 Brat which seems to have a different A/C setup than the '85. It doesn't have the same vacuum system to increase the idle speed - maybe its electronic. Yours maybe the same as my '86 if they changed the system in that year. I'll keep ya posted. Steve

Hi, I'm having problems with low idle speed when the A/C is running on my '85 Brat. I have done a lot of reading from Haynes, AllData and the FSM but can't find the exact part name/number or exact diagnostic test I need to perform. I read about the F.I.C.D system in the FSM which explains how to test the vacuum switch (FSM names it Air Valve) (AllData refers to something called Idle Up Control Valve - maybe the same) that opens when the A/C is turned on. Following the vacuum line to the carb, there is a diaphragm actuator which draws in a hook which in turn pulls a lever on the throttle linkage. I tried pulling a vacuum on this with a hand pump but it only moves slightly and won't hold a vacuum so I figure it is broken. The questions are: Am I testing it correctly? What is the technical name for this actuator? Can I buy this part at NAPA - I've searched but can't find it... If not, what is the SOA part number for it so I can see if I can order it from the dealer? Thanks in advance... Steve

Is this possible and what car could I transplant off if so? Mine is 4WD, hitachi carb, with A/C. Steve

Damn, now THAT sounds like fun! Lots of doo-haa's to firckle with there! Yeah, Haynes mentioned that the thermo valve regulates the air temp to 100-130 F (think?) so even when the engine reaches running temperature, the exhaust duct valve is constantly adjusting to maintain those inlet air temperatures. Not sure about math functions - I'm a programmer so my concept of the word goes more like: Let variable = Function_Name(parameter list). Applied to our world of engines (now this IS gettting fun ): Let liAirDensity = lcSizeOfAirIntake ' e.g. liAirDensity = 100 Let liAirDensity = Adjust_Air_Density(liAirDensity, Get_Ambient_Temperate()) ' liAirDensity = 90 (its damn warm down here!) Let liAirDensity = Adjust_Air_Density(liAirDensity, Stuff_Air_Through_Intercooler(liAirDensity)) ' liAirDensity = 200 ! Damn! Let liAcceleration = Make_Car_Go(liAirDensity, Add_Fuel()) Damn, liAcceleration is an amazing 0-60 in 5.6 seconds! Just imagine if we took the "Stuff_Air_Through_Intercooler" Function out... Now liAcceleration is now a measly 0-60 in 12 seconds.... Or if I think I have the idea down right (without the archaic DOS Basic!).. The colder the air molecules - the smaller they become: the more you can get in the chamber: the more fuel you can add without the mixture becoming too rich: the bigger the explosion: the more force pushing on the piston/conrod/crankshaft: We go DAMN fast indeed! Steve

Sure, bad English - my bad. I had been juggling around with the grammar and for some reason that sounded like the right sentence to land on Lemme try again.... "Faulty HAI motor wasn't holding a vacuum hence not letting hot air into the carb on startup...." There we go!

Faulty HAI motor wasn't holding a vacuum and letting hot air into the carb on startup.... These later year carbed cars are fascinating to me I remember my old '78 Ford Escort which drove off a throttle cable turning a butterfly valve letting more air into the mix.... That was it! Those EPA regulations certainly threw a spanner -er wrench in the works. The solution of numerous mechanical carb choke levers and vacuum driven bits and bobs is definatley intriguing.... I hope they all keep working for a while longer I'm begining to understand a little more of what lies behind the decision to move towards computer controlled fuel injection - definately cuts down on the number of springs, sprockets and gizmos surrounding the good old carb throttle and (if you were lucky automatic) choke plates... Steve

Cheers! I spent some time with it tonight and managed to fix the hood problem . Turns out you can undo the bolts on the hood striker so I did and moved it a tad to the right. It closes like a charm now I reckon the cable was pulling the latch before but the striker was stuck. I had to lift the hood at the same time as opening the latch before I figured I could re-align the striker. I will check the ground locations tomorrow - I have alldata so I'll check that out for grounding points. While building a new headlamp mount I did notice one lose on the radiator support so I already have one down! I haven't changed either fuel filter - will get to those next time I'm at NAPA. Used my Dad's sandpaper on the alternator belt trick to see if it's the source of a squeaky belt. Had problems with the EGR valve on another vehicle so I investigated why the Brats EGR light is illuminated. It's driven by a thermo vacuum valve but after performing the 2000-3000 revs test from the Haynes manual it doesn't appear to be getting any vacuum from the manifold. I hooked up a vacuum pump and give it a squeeze which did open the EGR valve so thats working and figure its a faulty thermo vacuum valve?!? Or maybe blocked pipe somewhere. I notice that if I switch on the A/C the revs drop and don't pick up again - I guess there is some throttle actuator that isn't working and I need to research. I changed some of the 3/16 rubber pipes that attach to the air cleaner box because they had gone hard. I pulled one plug which looks in good shape (light brown) - didn't gap it though. Also re-mounted the spare wheel which was out while I attempted bodywork. All-in-all a good night's work! Steve

Alright! My Brat just passed inspection All legal and above board Love driving it already - I can see why the board has so many devoted members. Funny thing is, I've has two Brats for a while now but never had the chance to drive 'em so I have a couple of simple questions about general engine performance. 1) The water temp needle is sitting just above the middle of the range at idle, full running temperature. Bearing in mind its a tad hot here (90 with 97 heat index at mo), is this around the norm or expected based on ambient or should I be looking at adding some coolant/antifreeze? 2) When starting from cold I need to give it a few revs to keep it from stalling for about 1 minute and when I run the A/C sometimes it idles rough. I added some Shell V-Power at lunch time and a couple of blocks down the road the car kangarood a couple of times then the idle seemed to clear up a bit. The car has been sitting for at least 6 months so I plan on adding some fuel additives, squirting in some carb cleaner and cleaning the plugs/dissy cap. Is there anything else I could look at doing as routine engine tune-up? 3) Due to the accident, the hood cable is slack - Is there any way it can be tightened (I'm guessing from inside the car because the other end is fixed). Thoughts are appreciated... Steve

Quickfix final shot Thanks to 'DiggerRoo for the inspiration Thanks to all others in the thread for the final fix advice - this will happen a few months down the line when I have the change to get the frame pulled properly :cool: (also fixed bad photo links from the start of the thread - whoops) Steve

Thread revival! OK so my hand was forced a little.... So all my vehicles are presently off the road and I'm standing, waiting for the bus to arrive. 1 hour passes and I'm still standing, wait..... Anyway, infuriated. Screw the RTA I say, I mean I've had 2 months of this crap up to my eyeballs, I'm getting one of my cars rolling again before I go mad..... I figure my '85 Brat is closest to momentum. The skinny: I swapped out the leading arm from my other Brat and got the wheel back in the middle of the arch, 1 jump start from a freindly neighbour and its chocks away down the street for a road test - bar hood! Jumping banana time! So tomorrow, I follow GoldDiggerRoo's footsteps and fanangle my headlights and bumber back on - The job's a good 'un. At least until I get some more cash to finish off pulling the rest of the body into shape.... Mas jumping bananas! And its my birthday to boot My roo's re-birthday! Steve

That bird shot is a fantastic capture He really does have that air of astute fascination with your work The brakes came together great - I particularly like the red touch on the pads - gives it that Porsche 911 kinda feel ! :cool: So what's involved with the swap? Can you just unbolt old and bolt up new or is there any extra finangling to be done? Congrats on the successful "glide-to-a-stop" brake job. On the one-man bleeder kit - they do come in real handy. I like them so much that I made my own out of a $25 bug sprayer which pressurises and pushes the fluid through the system from the resevoir - No brake peddle pumping Steve

I you go the LN route, you really don't need to be too liberal when applying it. I just repaired a small rectangular section of a bathroom wall following a termite infestation. After filling the chewed out wood with epoxy, I squirted a S-load of Liquid Nails into the gap and pushed in the replacement sheet-rock section so it was snug and flush with the wall. The next day, I came back to find that the glue had expanded and the sheet-rock square was sitting out from the wall a good 1/8" - 1/4" Steve

Not for a leg of lamb Besides, their mission was finding a solution to having to eat the terrible food you find at road side restaurants while on a long road journey in the UK. If you throw your grub on to the "stove" when you start your trip, by the time you would normally stop for food the meal would be ready. Of course, if you want "Fast Food", you could always turn up the RPMs to say 4 or 5 thousand and grill up in a fraction of the time Steve

Phew, that sure is a story of much work and generous family sharing - Great Job! On another note, it's fortunate you guys all live 'up North because if a similar tale of family passion were to come out of a certain southern state sitting on our northern border, there'd be plenty of room for incestuous inuendo Steve

You can see it done here on a Forester.....Maybe more relevant to the newer sube forums but couldn't resist (About 3:30 mins into the clip).... Steve

Here's my 10 cents....my 2 cents is free... I like the colours but would have to concur with the chap who recommended racing stripes... The contrast of black and yellow on the hood and trunk are a little to stark... My hood work would start from a point at the windshield, would form a concave line across and along the length of the hood before turning into a convex curve somewhere near the front to finally abut the lower crease line and follow it to the lip. Hur hur...hut hur... I just said "a butt" (sorry, must have picked that up from another thread ) Maybe the line could extend and straddle the bumber... Anyways, courtesy of the marvelous Windows Paint, here's my artist's impression.....(I really must pick up a book on Photoshop one of these days ) Steve

Here here! I use heat then spray Blaster while its hot and expanded or is still cooling down so the spray can hopefully pentrate further along the threads. Then I'd use the "Impact Wrench quality" bolt extractor from sears. You may try hitting the bolt extractor (on the nut) with a BFH - I mean really hitting it. I had problems removing the flywheel from my engine which I finally managed with the combination of impact bolt remover, heat and BFH. Steve

Cheerz,I figured that another model would do the trick, just didne know which one to choose...Steve

The seal should be a metal washer so Liquid Wrench/PB Blast will be fine. If you are using a 6 point socket on the bolt that fits snug, try using a piece of metal pipe on the wratchet to extend your leverage. One caution about switching to synthetic on an old engine (not sure if low miles will reduce the risk) - I just did the same thing with my '93 GMC truck with 256K miles - Flush followed by Royal Purple and it sprang a leak. I figure its because the synthetic is thinner than regular oil and it found the weak points in the gaskets. I have the engine in pieces at the mo and all clues point to a spot on the head gaskets that are quite a distance from a head bolt. Just a FYI - maybe the Sube engine is more resillient than my truck - maybe more experienced users could chime in on that one... Good luck with your revival - I'm trying to get mine rolling after 3 years off the asphalt... Steve