samneric

Timing. Buy a gun. Steve

...and piccys here so you can see how it looks without having to lift it out http://www.alonzostreet.com/steve/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=408 Steve

Did it get stuck in the snow ? I notice a slight rattly sound when you lift off the gas - was it just the pipes rattling around or is it the sound of the engine?? I need a new exhaust on my Brat and would like some recomendations on the y-pipe backwards..... Steve

I had this issue when the timing was out. I'm assuming your flywheel is rusted up. If so, you need to clean it up so you can find your marks - they are stamped onto the front edge. I'm not sure if it caused my problems but I switched the ignition module from another dissy I had lying around which cleaned up the timing. You won't be able to get it running right without the timing set up properly. Do that first. Steve

You don't need to remove the engine.... I've switched out cross-members on mine by jacking the engine up (using a block of wood to spread the load).... Then I believe you need to switch over anything PS related that leads off the crossmember - rack, lines, pump blahdi blah.... If its too big a job for u, I can always come take it off your hands.... been waiting for a powersteering conversion on my Brat for ages Steve

Congratulations :headbang: That is A LOT of wod So what are you doing with the Brat? ? ? ? Steve

Thanks for the advice.....Will look out for one.. As for fitting, I have just ordered a new dryer with a 1/4" service port. I was thinkin of getting some kind of tee-fitting but with 3 extra ports (kinda like a cross) so I can hook up the high/low shut offs and the main fan control switch. Recon that will work? The main fan control is currently welded into a copper tube from the cond to the dryer (obviously some kind of custom job). Steve

Tis ok, I'll go off the 20 PSI low side recommended earlier when I get my new compressor / dryer and expansion valve installed. I am driving around with the glove box out and I'm impressed by the vacuum actuator that operates the interior/exterior air flap. My gf suggested I fit a piece of clear plastic over the glovebox with some hints of neon lighting inside and really "pimp out my ride" Steve

Finger Lickin Good? I'm about to put my glass covers back in place. Bought some black tape to fix them up properly. Will post pics when done if you want.... Steve

In my on-going effort to service my Brat, I have moved on to my A/C system. I just finished getting the engine running with an old A/C compressor having switched it to R134a. I just bought a new compressor which fits the original accessory mounting hardware so I wanted to "start from scratch" using R134a when installing it. I know I need a new dryer but I figured I'd check on the Evaporator because all I did so far was flush it out with A/C solvent. I also wanted to find out where the illusive expansion valve is because I've heard lots of mention of it but found no reference in the FSM A/C component part breakdown diagrams. So here's a shot of the evap - I figure its about time for a new one....(or at least a jolly good cleaning)... (The expansion valve is hidden away inside the case - piccy follows this one). For those interested, more pictures of the dismantling process to get to the evap can be found here: http://www.alonzostreet.com/steve/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=768 Steve

I 2nd that notion. Parts arrive in a day or two. I've bought bunch of stuff from them lately and been pleased. ...and check out this deal - even if you get it for spares, nows the time to buy... BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0322580 Head Set, 1 Per CarChoose: [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty (Only 5 Remaining)] ($28.79)[Regular Inventory -- Full Mfr. Warranty] ($63.99) $28.79$0.00$28.79 I just paid $85 for the Felpro set from Napa (although there seems to be more pieces in it) Steve

Yup, those bolts snapping are what did my rusty tank in. If you want to repair it, try all loosening techniques possible (including heat if you have drained the tank and left it long enough for the rest to evaporate). If you can get the sender off ok, the POR15 tank kit and their PorPatch or Epoxy could be used to patch up the holes. The kit itself seals the tank from the inside and should fill in any pin holes. At $73 for the kit though, you maybe better off with your latter option from the PNW.... A lot less work too! Steve

Yeah, was wondering why my sightglass was milky - was gonna read up on that today... One question - can you buy dryers with the pressure switch holes already included or do they have to be tapped? Every dryer I have found online just has the inlet and outlet connectors - no ports for the pressure switches. I've just been running with the switches jumped and will check the system periodically (or when it starts blowing warm!). Steve

Hi all running older cars with retrofited A/C systems... I have just upgraded the A/C in my 4WD Brat to R134a (after a few teething troubles) and wanted to confirm the operating pressures that people are running theirs at... The Haynes book says Low: 28, High: 250 Mine is running about Low: 35, High 250. The sticker on the back of the compressor mentioned a high of 425 PSI - maybe that was just for testing.. Anyways, with the switch to R134, was wondering what people are running with... Steve

Alrighty, this looks a little better.... Thanks GD for the help! Closer... So its running - WITH AC! :banana: :banana: Which leads me on to my next thread.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=741712#post741712 Steve

Hang on a minute....... After searching the forum and discovering that the key isn't machined into the shaft (which I have seen before), dusting off my cobwebs now I DO remember something crescent shaped on the floor after replacing that front oil seal...... Lucky I kept it just incase I came to need it in the future Now let me go and slap this guy back in :-\ My ignorance is really starting to show through - I'm embarressed. Steve

I imagine that the crank is fubar. At the very least, I will have to pull the motor again to add a key, not to mention all those iron fillings sifting around the engine system.. I didn't know that crank was not aluminum. I guess its steel then. Steve

You've hit the nail on my head..... I don't believe this.... After 3 months of work on my engine.... Closer.... That blows me away. The bolt was torqued up one fraction off 54 ftlbs given a range of 47-54. It must have been the tight (it wasn't completely seized) compressor that caused it. Maybe these (Aluminium - HAH!) crankshafts lose their strength after 200k miles..... I'm under the moon. Steve

I have UPS and FEDEX pickups from the mail room in my building - I have had so many car parts delivered recently the Fedex guy was asking for the employee who is starting up an auto shop I'd love to see the look in their faces if I were to wheel in an engine block strapped to a pallet Might need to ship a tailgate soon so looking for two boxes for each end... Steve

I've done the POR-15 treatment on a tank. The hardest and fiddliest part was covering the pickup filter with a zip-loc tied up with string. Apart from that, its just the waiting for each application to dry. Unforch the hole around the sender was so rusted, I tore it open trying to fix a new sender to it so I didn't get change to see how it held up on the car.... Steve

Not sure how tight the crank pulley bolt is - although I have been using a socket and wrench on it to turn the motor over (backwards and forwards) to get the timing marks alligned. Could it be a loose pulley bolt allowing the drive gear to move forward and back on the crankshaft ?!?!? Steve

I conquor. It is strange. Yes, it looks like a worm gear to me (one single "tooth" in a spiral along its length). I'm at a loss as to why (at 8 d btdc) I would have to pull the dissy shaft out, rotate it anti-clockwise one tooth position and re-seat it so that the rotor points back at the #1 pickup. My suggestion is that somehow the dissy gear (driven) is lifting off the worm gear and dropped back one tooth out. I know it sounds hard to beleive but those are the symptoms I experience.... Steve

That is a good point. I have disconnected the vacuum line from the solenoid but not plugged it. I will plug it up and try again. I still need to advance the dissy one tooth and set it up again - haven't had the inclination this weekend - been driving Miss Daisy (my girlfriend in her car ) since my last attempt. I do set up the timing with the vac advance disconnected and plugged. To be honest though, when it is connected and the engine is idling, it doesn't make much difference to the advance. It sure is a wierd situation because I literally do have to advance the dissy one tooth after it happens. The engine will run fine, the revs will drop a little when the comp is first engaged then after a while, the engine just drops and dies after the tooth is jumped. Switching off the A/C and restarting the engine doesn't cure it, only advancing the dissy one tooth will get the firing point back in the adjustment range of the dissy body. Steve

Cheers Spiff. Oh, following the line of the exhaust or "As the crow flies" ? Steve

Update - This afternoon, I swapped in another of the 4 dissys I have. The compressor ran longer this time but the timing went again. I took some notes of the dimensions of three that are off cars at the mo. They all pretty much measured up except the model number of the one I pulled out today is D4R80-03 1Z04, where the other two (one I put back in) are D4R83-12 xxxx and D4R83-13 xxxx. I'm at the point now where I suspect the worm gear on the crank is worn or the crankshaft bearings are loose which causes it to move enough under load that the dissy jumps a tooth. Next task - swap in the block/heads from my spare Brat - it apparantly has less miles on it. Steve