oobnuker
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Posts posted by oobnuker
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It doesn't say what type of alcohol it uses, and where you would get it. Ethanol is fairly common, but it doesn't have much of an octane advantage, ansd is mildly antagonistic towards rubbers and plastics. Methanol has the higher octane rating (IIRC), but destroys nearly any plastic or rubber it contacts. Plus I seem to remember issues with corroding aluminum.
I still think that it would be neater to go with liquid propane: High Octane rating (110 IIRC), low corrosivity, superior charge cooling, and general availability. Set up a system to use a camp-stove bottle, and bob's your uncle. Just keep it safe from excess heat and crushing...
I don't think it's octane that is the big concern - the alcohol is vaporized during combustion. It is used to cool the charge air by 200 degrees or so, allowing higher boosts using lower octane fuels. Isopropyl is cheap and effective.
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I read in someone's thread that in 1987 Subaru introduced the electronic 4 speed automatic transmission.I have an 87 GL-10 Turbowagon. Is it an easy swap-out with the 3-speed auto? This would take into consideration that I could find one. Since we've raised the speed limit from 55 to 70+, the engine runs in a higher RPM range than I would like. I'd like to have my soob for 300,000+ miles, like I did with my 88 turbo wagon, but it was a 5-speed (which I miss alot). Any advice out there?
Not much help on the auto side of things, but if you are swapping transmissions, and missing the 5-speed...
It just seems silly to even consider the automatic.
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http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=1
This is a picture of my engine bay. I have removed the power steering, A/C, spare tire, air box, and a few other things I can't even remember. The windshield wiper fluid tank is on the inside now because for a while I had no fenders...It's out of a '90 Legacy. Also, obviously, this is a SPFI motor - not sure what your RX is.
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The hubs are pressed into the housings. Sell them together or take them someplace to have them pressed out.
Thanks - I should have checked here before I ripped what's left of my hair out...
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I need to remove the rear hubs on my '93 AWD Wagon. Is there some trick to this? I have removed the strut, the brake caliper and hardware, and the axle. What is the trick?
I am selling the rear disc assembly to someone - should I just leave everything whole? (Spindle, backing plate, brakes, hub)
Thanks.
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Thnx for the reply, Oobnuker. I might try finding that hole in the flywheel and using it, but not sure I want to drill any holes. Is it really that big a deal to remove the starter?
Or can someone offer up any other solution? thanks everyone.
Removing the starter is not a big deal at all really, but it's another 1/2 hour or so of fumbling around that you don't need to do. Two bolts and it's out - it's just a matter of getting to them. The lower one can be a pain because the distributer, master cylinder, spare tire bracket, fuel lines, etc. all get in the way...Also remember to disconnect the battery if you haven't already or you could be in for a nice surprise down there...
I didn't drill the hole the first two times I did the timing belts - I took a long screw driver and bent it like a "crank" in a vise with a hammer - that works ok but this last time I just bit it and drilled and it really just makes it so damned easy. This car has so many holes in it, I figure one more surely isn't going to hurt, and it hasn't yet.
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Another newbie q'n for ya: How do you torque down the crankshaft pulley bolt w/a manual tranny w/o turning the whole crankshaft motor? Unfortunately I wasn't the one to take it off, so I don't know how to secure the crank from moving while torquing on/off. I put it in gear and it still turns a bit and prevents me from torquing it down to spec. Grrrrr
The manual says to take off the freakin' starter and wedge a screwdriver in there....is this really the only way? Thanks fellas
Pop open the inspection cover for the flywheel at the top of the bellhousing. Rotate it slowly and you will find several holes in the flywheel that you can use to secure the engine. It is kind of offset so you might have to get creative. A common backyard solution is to take a good look and drill a hole right through the bellhousing so that it lines up with the hole. Drop a screwdriver in the hole and you're all set. Then you just need to find something to plug the hole with - an oversized sheet metal screw, a rubber plug, duct tape, whatever.
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I put gl10 on the ramps for the first time lastnight. She's not in bad condition minus the rocker panels being almost see thru. But I did find I need some parts and I'm hoping you folks can help me find em. At the back of the shift linkage, it looks like there should be something there to hold it too where it overlaps the crossmember on the body. To possibly stabilize the shifter from vertical movement.
Am I correct, and if so what is it called and where could I find one?
My inboard right side cv boot is toasted, the cv clacks a fuzz, but I'm just going to repace the whole 1/2 shaft. Does anyone know the size of the nut on the spindle so I can order one when I order the 1/2 shaft?
And finally, the rear tranny mounts seem to be separated. In other words, where the rubber looks like it should be vulcanized to the flat pieces of steel that are bolted too both the tranny and also to a crossmember, I can push up on the tranny and I see a void about 1 mm open up . My local parts guys does not even list these mounts, do you folks think I need new ones, if so...where can I find them.
I'm going to do the cv and linkage thing first and see what it does to the banging underneath the car. Thanks for any help, I really appreciate it.
I think the axle nut is 36mm, BUT - it usually comes with the rebuilt axle if you go that route. At least it does when I get mine from Advanced Auto ~$60 for a reman. axle...
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hey bunker, which one did you get? do you still have his name? I tried finding the auction but I can't find it.
Bunker???
Archie???
Anyway - here is a current auction for the same item that I bought:
The vendor's name is SaberSport.
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Well, I'm bringing this thread back to life because as promised, I bought the item off of E-Bay - the $8.95 MAF adapter and filter.
This is what came in the package:
http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=4
The filter appears to be of higher quality than the APC $25 jobber that I got at Advanced Auto. It also appears to be cleanable and reusable ala K&N, vs. el-cheapo filters (hermmmm APC?)
The adapter is simple plastic. My only gripe is that the holes do not line up 100%. All the holes line up somewhat, but not perfectly. Nothing a little rat-tail file or a larger dill bit won't fix in about 5 minutes. All in all, I'm satisifed that my nine bucks was well spent.
Total with shipping was $18.95 including the adapter plate, filter, gasket, and mambo worm-gear clamp.
Here is a rough shot of the way the holes don't quite line up:
http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=5
I'll let you know how it all goes back together once I get my car back (long story...not pretty).
I put it all together last night. All it took was a minute with that rat-tail file (chainsaw file) to slot the holes and it came together nicely. When I fired the engine up, the sweet sounds of an open intake greeted my ears. The old one was definitely clogged up just based on listening to the new one.
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Hello:
This is my first post and is related to my recent acquired: a 91 Loyale sedan.
My question is: if the "Check engine" light dont turns on, is all in the engine OK?
Surfing the web I've found many pages with the method to perform a check and got the codes for my car.
I got this link and may be useful http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
Greetings from Peru
Jorge Pasco
If you turn the key to "ON" and the check engine light comes on, then it goes off when you start the car, then it is fine.
Basically all the "idiot lights'" on the dash should illuminate when you turn the key ON, but don't start the car. If the light doesn't come on ever, chances are the bulb is blown.
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I sold two turbos on Ebay - one for an EA82T, the other from a 1st Generation Buick 3.8l turbo. I put them both up at $50 + $25 shipping (heavy suckers), and they both sold using BuyItNow...Just something to think about.
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Well, I'm bringing this thread back to life because as promised, I bought the item off of E-Bay - the $8.95 MAF adapter and filter.
This is what came in the package:
http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=4
The filter appears to be of higher quality than the APC $25 jobber that I got at Advanced Auto. It also appears to be cleanable and reusable ala K&N, vs. el-cheapo filters (hermmmm APC?)
The adapter is simple plastic. My only gripe is that the holes do not line up 100%. All the holes line up somewhat, but not perfectly. Nothing a little rat-tail file or a larger dill bit won't fix in about 5 minutes. All in all, I'm satisifed that my nine bucks was well spent.
Total with shipping was $18.95 including the adapter plate, filter, gasket, and mambo worm-gear clamp.
Here is a rough shot of the way the holes don't quite line up:
http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=5
I'll let you know how it all goes back together once I get my car back (long story...not pretty).
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I have a 92 loyale 97000mi 1.8l a/t. right after I bought the car had to put starter in car because sometimes the car would not roll over. It would click but if you jiggled the key it would start. After that it seemed to still do it like if you left headlights on. So had battery load checked it was bad. Put new one in everything seemed fine. (also when running the car with no lights on the volts gauge almost pegs out. With the lights on runs in the middle. Now new problem
charge idiot light on, brake fluid light on. Parking brake light is lit. Has brake fluid,
parking brake off andstarts fine when cold and volts gauge runs in the middle now. Has anyone had or have this problem sounds like alternator. My 84gl did something close to this and was alternator ,can i check codes. Maybe it was never the starter:confused:
djcracker
It's the alternator. The voltage regulator inside the alternator has died and gone to HELL. I'm not sure where you are located, but in the North East, Advanced Auto/Parts America has remanufactured alternators for about $60 with a 1 year warranty.
I have gone through this many times...
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I've got a pair of 55w Hella's, and a pair of 100w Walmart Cheapos. All wired to their own relays, and wired in to the high beams. One flick of the high beams for instant 310w forward lighting...
The lights:
http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=26
http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=15
The relays:
http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=12
There are some other pictures in the gallery with other shots of the wiring, etc.
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I drive my '90 Loyale 100+ miles per day - 75-100MPH in the morning on the way in to work, and 2-50MPH on the way home...
As the 7th owner of the car, with what I expect to be complete disrespect and neglect from the prior owners, I have replaced: the radiator, gone through 3 axles, brakes, fuel pump, timing belts. and a distributor over the course of 60,000 HARD miles...
The car has 200,000 miles on it right now (approx. speedo cable broke ~30,000 miles ago :-\ )
All in all, those repairs cost me about $460 ($120 for the radiator, 3 x $60 for the axles, $50 or so for the brakes, $60 for the T-Belts, and $50 that I managed to STEAL an '89 Parts car for) and a bit of my time over the course of 2.5 years.
I think it's pretty reliable - if you inherit poor maintenance, you need to take car of it first, or you'll be cursing yourself and the car later...
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Thanks. So I guess i'll just fab up a plate.
Am I to understand that a plate to block off the EGR valve -> Manifold mounting is all I really need? Blocking the vacuum, solenoid removal, etc. is optional? (I would probably do it to clean things up further).
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Well, since EGR is a 3 letter word, I can't search for it. I'm curious if anyone has ever removed the EGR valve on an EA82 engine. Notice any difference? My understanding is that there really is probably no performance gain from it, but it may reduce the amount of carbon buildup.
Any driveability problems? Other issues that I am not seeing? Is it as simple as removing the valve, covering the hole and plugging the vacuum line?
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I believe Moosens said he could get the mid-pipe through a Subaru Dealership near him (Milford/Bridgeport) for something like $170 - It's not hard to replace as long as you PLAN on breaking the old bolts and using new ones, cuz that's what's going to happen.
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Yeah, I couldn't get the correct one at my Advance store. They ordered a "Ready Rad" brand 2-row that wouldn't phisically fit.
The manufacturer and part # would be great.
John
I don't recall. I think I ordered it for a 1989 GL Wagon Turbo. They had to order it, but had it for me the next day (Sunday even)...It has worked like a charm. My only complaint is that the new end tanks are plastic - but they haven't given me any troubles, just knowing they are plastic...
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Can anyone tell me how you tell if the radiator that is in the car is already a double row?
Should have asked this question at the WCSS!
David
Looking down at the top of the radiator, note the "end tanks", now note the thickness of the "core (where the fins are)" - a single row radiator is roughly a third of the thickness of the end tanks, a double row is closer to filling it out from front to back. That's my estimation of it at least.
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I grabbed one from Advanced Auto for about $120 - Double Row core from a turbo. Now the car rarely ever goes above 1/8th on the gauge...
Well worth it.
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Hi,
Still trying to find right RPM"s & gears for best economy on '88 DL wagon with SPFI & 4WD, no tach.
In the old days I used a vacuum gage with carbed vehicles. Can this be done with SPFI, and if so, where would I tap in?
Thanks,
Ray Mac.
I have a vacuum gauge on my SPFI motor. I tapped into the little bung on the passenger's side of the intake manifold. This spot is also used for one of the solenoid in the thermostat housing area.
I get about 22 inches at idle, which is about 800RPM on my car. WOT brings it down to about 2-3 now, but my air cleaner is old, so I'm thinking it might get closer to 0 with a fresh one.
In this picture you can see where I tapped in:
http://bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=3
Click on the picture to make it huge.
The vacuum line that I am using is the one that is shrouded in the corrugated plastic flex tubing if you look closely.
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That E-bay one looks a bit different than the one I had on my old wagon... but then again, that pic might not be of the exact MAF adaptor. If it's for a Sentra GA16DE, it'll work on our MAFs.
Would people be interested if I could get a whole mess of these? I have some close connections in the Nissan community, and I might be able to snag some for cheap.
I took a look at a bunch of their other auctions and they use the same picture for a lot of them...So let's hope it's the right one.
Alcohol injection?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Read this: http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/alcohol.html
I apologize in advance that it is a geocities site.
Alcohol injection has been used for decades. We're not talking about NitroMethane, or Methanol, or anything like that - ala Top Fuel Dragsters.
Alcohol injection has been used for cars that couldn't be intercooled easily (read: draw through carb'ed turbo setups ['79 Turbo Buick Regal]). In these systems, the fuel would cool too much and puddle in the intercooler. Alcohol injection is the perfect solution to this.