oobnuker

I am running without covers on my Loyale - EA82. I drive it 100 miles per day (all highway) and I never have any trouble.

I believe NGK is OEM original equipment.

Fixed it for ya

I don't know off the top of my head, but most good parts stores should be able to tell you the OEM plugs for any given make and model.

That's really cool - the only thing I would worry about is isolating the MAF from vibration. If you notice the stock airbox, it is isolated quite a bit by big rubber bushings. Other than that, it looks really nice and I imagine will give you some good results!

Nice! I have been thinking about blocking that line on my SPFI for a while now - notice any improvements? I was actually thinking about putting a valve in so that I could open it in the winter...

That's awesome! I was at the dump and had the lady yell out the weight to me - "about 2800 pounds" was what I got. This was in my '90 Loyale, all stripped out with me weighing in at about 240 at that time (down to 195 thanks Atkins ). Only word of caution I have is on that flex-pipe. They don't last worth sh*t, but it certainly is easy to replace

Hmm...I never thought of that.

It's kinda tough if you can't set them side by side to compare. Looking down from the top of the radiator, where the core meets the end-tanks, you will see either a whole lot of end tank exposed (single core), or not quite as much (dual core). As far as a turbo vs. non turbo radiator, I think the lower hose fitting is at a different angle slightly on the turbo model vs. the non-turbo. I'm sure someone can give you a cleared depiction though.

I did a quick search and could not find any specific information regarding porting the SPFI motors. I have a spare SPFI sitting in my garage and I was thinking about tweaking it with my Dremel. Looking at the intake, there appears to be a ridge that is there by design - for splitting off the flow to each cylinder I guess - so I don't think I want to mess with that. What about gasket-matching? How about the Throttle body-to-intake area? I'm wondering if anyone has ever done any porting work to the SPFI's? I'm running out of things to do to this motor: A/C Delete Power Steering Delete Mechanical Fan Delete Accel Coil Custom Intake Timing Advanced to 24 BTDC High Octane Fuel Only (pings otherwise) Dual Row, Turbo Model Radiator Y-Pipe to single cat to 2" Glass Pack, side exit exhaust Custom Air/Oil Separator The motor screams, and pulls to redline in every gear except 5th (which I think might be an aerodynamic issue ) but I want more. Save the "Turbo" comments

Two row radiators have can basically be considered "double capacity" - I have a two row, turbo radiator on my Loyale, and I'll be damned if I can ever get the temperature to rise beyond 3/8 up the gauge on the hottest day. My vote is for using the stock thermostat to maintain engine efficiency, but get the best radiator that you can and that will fit.

It's sometimes tough to get the axle out of the hub, but nothing a big jaw gear puller can't handle. Other than that I think it's pretty straightforward - particularly if you've done other axles before.

I'm not sure if this has been posted or not, but I didn't find it in the search. http://www.rlhenterprises.com/hovercraft/prospector.htm That's right, and EA82 powered Hovercraft that "skips across the top of the water at 50mph" That's a beautiful thing.

Seconded on the radiator! Advance Auto in the Northeast (not sure where else they are) has radiators for like $109 and can usually get them next day or even in the afternoon of the same day if you're there early enough. When my radiator on my Loyale started failing with exactly the same symptoms, I ordered a dual-core radiator from a Turbo GL for the same year (1990). It fits like a glove, and other than using a different lower hose than the Loyale's, it is a direct replacement. Now, no matter how hard I push it, on the hottest day here in CT, I can not get the temperature needle to rise past 3/8's of the way up the guage. This is all with the stock thermostat, and one electric fan - I took the engine driven fan off a long time ago!

Not sure there's going to be much left . Anything that I can use on my SPFI, or is in good enough shape to keep for a later turbo motor, will go up on the shelves in the garage. I'll let you know if anything changes.

...or motor for that matter? I have an EA82T engine sitting in my garage. It supposedly had a blown head gasket, but it looks like whatever happened, it was driven into the ground until it couldn't run anymore. Both heads are severely cracked between the valves and the block is seized up, the PCV bungs are caked full of crud. What, if anything can I salvage from this old monster for my EA82 SPFI? Cam Carrier? Valve Covers? Oil Pump? Any market for stock EA82T cams? I'm trying to clear out my garage and don't want to keep a hulking pile of crap if I don't need to. Thanks for the info!

Hahaha! I doubt that. I was actually eyeing a plastic paint tray at one time. I think with a little bondo/fiberglass - I might be able to find one that is exactly what I need!

Yeah - I was thinking about that. I was also considering mocking something up with styrofoam and then laying fiberglass sheets on it, sanding, priming, and painting. Not sure what I am going to do yet.

EA82 Intake modifiers report! That along with this: Makes for some MEAN sounds, and improved throttle response. Not sure if it provides any extra power - I need to create the baffle and a scoop. Nice work on yours!

To everyone, thanks. As an added bonus, and to jog everyone's memory, here are some pics of my car: http://bankruptsoul.org/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5

Sent you an email through the board - let me know if it gets there.

I'm back. Not sure if anyone remembers me, or if this is the right place to post this. Anyway, after throwing the timing belt on my Loyale for a second time (naked belts, lots of oil leakage, blah blah = thrown belts), and constant hatred from my wife over my ugly rump roast car ('90 Loyale Wagon), we bought a '99 Dodge Neon R/T coupe. It was a nice car, mint, got a great deal on it. Long story short, I wrecked the car last Friday and am lucky to be alive. I owe some people out there some bumper stickers, and I owe someone on the West Coast an Oil Separator. I have no excuses for having not sent the stuff out in like 9 months - just life got weird on me, and blah blah blah. So I am here to make good on those deals. My Loyale sat for 5 months with no love. Housed quite a few bee hives, sheltered local cats from the rain, but it didn't get any uglier. I was bored one day - my wife was out, I had my two youngest boys with me and decided we were going to get that bad boy running. Ran out and got a new timing belt and went to work. I cracked off the remaining brittle timing covers, cleaned up the engine as best as I could and started putting it all back together. I drilled a hole in the bellhousing (thanks Moosens for the tip a long long time ago) to stop the crank from turning. Got her all lined up, got the belts on, and pulled my van up for a quick jump start. The beast fired right up. After sitting for months she turned over and coughed up all that neglect and abuse and spit it out the tailpipe ("underpipe", the exhaust was broken off at the end of the Y-pipe). The boys were happy and I was happier. I took it out onto the road and gave it a few quick jabs with the brakes to grind the rust off and make sure the old bastard stopped. Piled the boys in and took it for a drive. We flew down the backroads at 60 and did a few 4-wheels-off jumps, grinning ear to ear. Took her down the dirt/rock access roads for the powerlines. When we got home, I parked it on top of an 8' high woodchip pile - dug in to the axle nuts... Needless to say, my wife was like "WTF!?!?!" This was all a couple of weeks ago - fast forward to last friday, and it's a good damned thing I got it all back together. I spent about 3 hours yesterday getting it all straightened out. Set the timing, changed the oil, cleaned it up some more. I put a super-ghetto exhaust on: y-pipe stub -> 2" pipe -> 2" Thrush Glass Pack -> side exit by the B-Pillar sounds sweet. So this has dragged on long enough. Not here for attention or anything really, just wanted to sort things out with the guys that I ...ahem...am a little late in shipping stuff to. Mods feel free to move this to where ever it should go, but I hope that the relevant parties find this so I can get their infos again and get the stuff sent out. Edit: Forgot to apologize. A big apology to anyone who has waited this long for me to ship stuff out. My Neon let me down (didn't stand up well against the jersey barrier, my Loyale has left me on the side of the road a couple of times, but the guys on this board have always been helpful - and I thank you.

SnotRocket - Awesome! Obviously they are doing something right! For the 21st Century - Flux Capacitors!

"Old school crap" said in the most loving fashion.... I just meant that, sure "muscelcars" to this day are using this type of stuff - old technology, or new spin on old technology, pushrods and carbs, etc.... But come on, a carb in a box, or a tricked out EFI system - or better yet, custom CIS setup??? My vote goes to INJECTION baby!!! I don't doubt that these muscle cars are making oodles of power and so on and so forth, but a 2.65 liter Honda Turbo V8 formula one motor is not making 900 horsepower with a carb in a box...Hahahahaha!

It definitely will affect driveability. I have been having major issues with EGR solenoids for the last few months, having gone through two. What seems to be happening on mine is that the solenoid just goes south on me and causes vacuum to actuate the EGR valve at will or when just coming off part-throttle. This makes it very difficult to "cruise" at low speeds/part throttle. My solution: plug the vacuum line going to the EGR solenoid. Not the best, but the engine runs better now - less bucking and hesitation, etc. My EGR valve appears to be solid and intact. If you have an OHM meter, disconnect the elecitrical connection to the EGR solenoid and test for continuity across the contacts on the solenoid pigtail - if there is none, then the coil that actuates the solenoid is dead...