ionic

Yes, it's definitely available for the 95-96 Legacy. The part number H7110AS000 is for the 95-96 kit. I installed it on in our 96. The 97-98 uses a different kit because it already has the actuator installed but has the same module (and same squarish two-button remotes, which you probably see frequently on ebay). The 99 and later has a totally different keyless entry system. I'm not sure why they changed in 99 since the body style changed in 00, but since the keyless entry module is not manufactured by Subaru, maybe their contract expired with the keyless vendor. The 95-98 Legacy keyless entry system is made by Code Alarm. The 99-0? system is made by Alpine. The actual keyless entry installation kits are fairly rare, particularly for the 95-96, and you will probably not find one on ebay. Your best bet is to order from one of the online dealerships. The "keyless entry" items they usually sell on ebay are usually either just the control modules or the remote fobs. You want the complete kit with all the wiring, fuses, actuator, module, remote fobs, and instructions. A side-note is that the 97-01 Impreza uses the same Code Alarm keyless entry module as the 95-98 Legacy, but the 97 kit comes with the actuator similar to the 95-96 Legacy kit, whereas the 98-01 kit does not since the 98+ Impreza had the actuator already installed. The 97 Impreza kit will fit 93-96 Imprezas with power locks if you supply and fish two additional wires into the door for the actuator. The 95-96 Legacy kit comes with the two extra wires needed to install.

While I don't think keyless entry was available on the Legacy until the body style change in 1995, it's possible you could modify the 1995 kit to work on the 93 Legacy. Unlike the 97+ Legacies which already have the keyless actuator in place, the 95 and 96 still have power locking controlled only by the driver's side mechanical lock tab like the 93, so the 95-96 kit includes a replacement power lock actuator to install in the driver's door. This would be the only major problem with installing the kit in the 93, since the body style changed and the actuator is probably different between the 95 and the 93. The replacement actuator has wires that allow it to be controlled both mechanically by flipping the lock tab on the driver's door and electrically by a pulse from the keyless entry module, whereas the original actuator is only controlled mechanically by the lock tab. If you could modify the 95-96 actuator to work on the 93 Legacy locks, you should be fine. As far as the wiring goes, it's going to be different in the 93 than the 95-96, so the kit instructions won't be accurate as far as the wiring connections. You'll need a good wiring diagram that tells you where constant power, ignition switched power, the dome light, and the parking lights are wired under the dash, but these connections are very straightforward once you've properly identified the wires. I easily installed a 97 Impreza keyless entry kit on my 93 Impreza with few modifications necessary, but in my case the lock actuators were readily interchangable. The 95-96 Legacy keyless entry kit is Subaru p/n H7110AS000. It's $61 from subarugenunineparts.com, but check other sources. If you want the Subaru security system upgrade (which also adds the "chirp" when you lock the doors using the keyless), p/n H7110AS600, it's easy to add this to the keyless entry module once you have the keyless working, even though the security system wasn't really designed for the 95-96 car.

Sounds similar to a problem we had on the driver's side window of two of our Legacies, a 95 and a 96. The interior sheet metal of the door shell near one of the regulator bolts tore and the bolt slipped off, allowing the regulator to slide partially down into the door at an odd angle. In both cases I was able to bend the tear in the door shell back and use a washer and an extra nut (If I recall correctly) to resecure the regulator. It's not a really elegant fix and I'm not sure if it will last permanently, but it's held up for a couple years on both cars. I think the door shell design is weak at the bolt attachment point and it's just a faulty design detail since the metal is so thin at that point since it happened exactly the same way on both cars.

The wing grille looks better on the Impreza than it does on the Tribeca. I've never liked the front end of the Tribeca, but this freshened 2006 Impreza looks halfway decent. I think the 85-89 GL/GL-10 and the 95-99 Legacy were the nicest looking cars Subaru has ever made. All the extra exterior plastic makes the Outback, Forester, and various Impreza sports models look overdone in my opinion. Not all the styling details and features shown on the Japanese models may be available in all other countries, probably most especially the US. The US models are always stripped down and more conservatively styled by comparison. Details like chrome placement on the grille, grille patterns, and specific light designs may vary from country to country.

I was told by the local dealer that the kit was discontinued, but I didn't have the part number. They still had the kit for the 97-01 available. Checked this part number on subaruparts.com, and they list it as available for $156.81. Do you know this is definitely the 93-96 kit, or is this the 97-01 kit? I actually like the look of the 97+ fogs better. Will they fit in my bumper cutouts? Thanks!

I've had my 93 Impreza for seven years, and the headlights have always been annoyingly dim. The lenses are glass and have not yellowed like the Legacies' do, so that's not the problem. I'm using the standard bulbs. I'm not really interested in using higher wattage and potentially melting wiring harnesses, nor do I want to blind oncoming drivers. I'd just like to be able to see better on the road. I think the lights were really just an anemic design from the start. I've thought about adding the OEM Subaru fog lights to the car for extra light (I do drive in fog frequently) because I prefer the OEM look built-in to the bumper. I definitely want the OEM switch on the interior. I know there was a kit to add the fogs to a 93-96 Impreza, but I don't think it's available anymore. Anyone have any suggestions for where to get one or alternatives? I'm not really looking to spend more than $200. Thanks.

Thanks hoozie, I referred to the USRM post to help figure out how to get the dash out. I found one nest in the A/C evaporator. Most of the dashboard ducts were completely clogged with either backing from the carpet or some kind of insulation from behind the dash. Haven't opened the heater box up yet to figure out why the temp selector isn't sliding. While I have everything opened up, I'll replace all the dash light bulbs. I'm guessing the mice are getting in from the intakes along the bottom of the windsheid. Subaru made the openings there awfully big.

Jerry, what vents do you think should have screens? I'm pretty sure the mice didn't get in from the interior of the car. I'd rather not use mothballs or other stuff that will worsen the aroma. Mothballs have got highly toxic chemicals in them like formaldehyde and napthalene, so they're pretty toxic to humans too. I'd rather not breathe that for the next year. I've sprayed Lysol into the vents for now, which should dissipate soon. Now I've just got to figure out how to get rid of the nest.

I've got a 93 Loyale 4x4 wagon that's used as a spare car. Mice got into the dashboard and were living in the ductwork. I think the mice have been dispatched now, but they've obviously built a nest in the ducts because the temperature selector levers for hot and cold will only move an inch or so, and the driver's side VENT - A/C slider lever is stuck too. Also, not much air comes out the dashboard vents. I've taken the fan out, and it's clear, as are the ducts immediately behind the dashboard. The problem is obviously deeper in. Anyone have suggestions for how and where to open up the dashboard to clean out the nest? How can I keep mice from getting in the ductwork in the future? Thanks.

25-28 sounds very high for city driving. That's about right for highway. 22 is right where it should be for city. Perhaps you haven't driven enough since the repairs to establish a good track record. A single tank isn't enough of a predictor. Also, perhaps the fuel at your filling station has recently been changed to a mixture containing ethanol, which will always result in a loss in fuel economy. There could also be other problems as you've been talking about, but I don't think that 22 mpg should be completely unexpected.

It's your remote keyless entry system flashing the lights. There's probably a sticker under the hood near the battery or attached to the battery cable describing this phenomenon and how to correct it. If you had a siren on the car, it would be sounding along with the lights flashing. To stop the flashing, either press the "unlock" button on the remote entry transmitter, or turn the ignition on and reach up under the dash and press the programming button which you'll probably find in a bundle of wires.

We owned three of the older Loyale/GL's over the years, and made the switch to the Legacies, of which we currently have three. The Legacy is definitely a nicer car than the Loyale. The older GL was nicer than the Loyales too, but the Legacy is overall a much more sound, safe, reliable, and comfortable car than either. My preference is for the 95-96 vintage Legacy L or LS wagons rather than the Outback. It's just a AWD station wagon and satisfied with itself, no SUV wannabe pretense. They've all got dual airbags, most have ABS, and AWD is standard on all but a few 95's. The 95-96's are old enough now that you can pick up one at a very reasonable price, and I also think that body style is about the nicest looking and best proportioned Subaru they ever made. I believe 95-96 is before they went to interference engines, and all the Legacy L and LS models have the reliable 2.2 liter engine. We've driven a total of about 320,000 miles in our three combined and had no problems other than routine wear items. The Loyales, while not unreliable, definitely had more problems. I think there's adequate power with the 2.2 automatic, and fuel economy isn't terrible. It's actually better than we got in the Loyales. We average about 21-22 around town, and 26-27 on the highway. On one trip, I was very careful with my speed and didn't use the A/C and got almost 32 mpg. The Loyales never did better than about 24 on the highway, even with frugal driving techniques.

Just because the car has a salvage title doesn't mean that it has zero value or that the insurance won't pay you anything for it if it gets wrecked. We had a 92 Dodge minivan with a salvage title (it was stolen and was the victim of a chop shop when it was a few months old). When someone hit us, the insurance paid the market value. The market value is always going to be less with a salvage title, but it's not zero and not so substantially less that it's not worthwhile. My experience with buy-backs is that the insurance will sell it back at an extremely reduced price, thousands below the market value. I think you could come out ahead on this deal, even considering the repairs you'd need to make. You'd still have the same car you always had and know the history of, except for a few days when it was stolen. Buying something used, you won't necessarily have an idea. For all you know, the owner could have driven it rough for years, not just a few days.

I think the problem may be the electronic ignition control module. We've had the module fail in both a '95 and a '96 Legacy. The code both times was a cylinder misfire (the cause of your loss of power) and the symptoms you're experiencing sound similar to what we had. The module sits on top of the engine and the four spark plug wires connect to it. It takes the place of the distributor typically found in older cars. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the responses guys. Just heard back from the dealer that the car had already sold. He says it was immaculate. It was a good price. The 2.2 engine has always performed very well for us before, so that's why I was really interested in this car. It's too bad Subaru has gone to all 2.5's and doesn't even offer the 2.2 as the base engine. I'd rather keep my (relatively) good fuel economy and reliability.

I just spotted an ad for a 99 Legacy L 30th Anniversary wagon for sale at a local dealer. 78,000 miles, 2.2 engine, 5-speed, all the standard power stuff plus the 30th anniversary moonroof, leather seats, and CD player. $5900. Does this seem too good a deal? I don't have any of the details from the dealer yet, but the price seems excellent. We have 3 other Legacies L's from the 95-96 range which have been excellent cars, but I worry that Subaru's quality went downhill since. Any major different problem areas with the late 90s Legacy L? Thanks.

Sounds like the keyless entry/alarm system flashing the parking lights. Did you recently work on the car or disconnect the battery? This will set off the alarm. If you had a siren installed, it would be going off as well. Check under the hood on the front radiator support and on the battery cables. There you should find yellow stickers describing how to reset the system. To reset, either press the UNLOCK button on your keyless remote fob, or turn the car's ignition to the ON postition (without starting the car) and press the keyless module programming button found in a bundle of wires up under the dashboard above the driver's feet.

I doubt there is going to be any difference in the amount you pay for insurance between the two models. We have a Legacy L and an Legacy LS, both of which have the same insurance premium. It would also be the same premium if we had an Outback, because the Legacy L is listed as Legacy L/Outback whenever I've decoded the VIN and on the insurance policy itself. The difference between them is fairly analogous to the difference between Legacy 2.5i SE and Legacy 2.5i Ltd. Also, the differences in the current Legacies are listed as options "packages" rather than truly separate car models, for example, the Legacy 2.5i with SE package, versus the Legacy 2.5GT. The GT is a separate model; the i has the SE package. Subaru has always had funny packages. Most car makers would simply let you select individual options, such as power seat, upgraded sound, etc., along with offering some packages. Subaru doesn't do it this way, which I have always found this leads to confusing model designations and variations. Think of it like this: The insurance premium on the same model car with a power seat option versus a standard seat is going to be the same. The VIN number for insurance purposes is not going to be that specific. Since the insurance pays for replacement cost of the vehicle with a vehicle of like kind and condition (used), not cost of a like brand new vehicle, the $3300 difference in MSRP doesn't matter. Leather seats and upgraded sound might add a few hundred dollars of value on a used car, but not $3300. That few hundred dollars is essentially meaningless to the insurance company when it comes to your premium. If your car gets wrecked, the way they determine the actual value is so subjective that you can usually negotiate with them if you want to go through the trouble. The same thing is going to be true for any personal property taxes you pay on the car over the years. A car with the leather seat option is worth essentially the same as a car with cloth seats. Taxes you pay upon purchase of the car should be based on the actual sale price, not the MSRP.

I think it's a linkage problem. There are metal linkage rods which run behind the door panel down from the plastic door lock button by the door handle through the door to the mechanical door lock and to the electric actuator. If the linkage shifts ever-so-slightly in the door, as it might when the door is jarred, the latch or lock handle touched, or when the car goes over a bump, it causes enough movement in the linkage rods for the actuator to make contact and signal to the actuators in the other three (or four, if it's a wagon) doors to lock without having moved the linkage enough to mechanically lock the driver's door. I noticed the same problem in our '95 Legacy and '93 Impreza, but only in hot weather, which made me think it could have to do with the viscosity of the lubrication on the linkage, and thereby, how easily it moves. The problem in the Impreza vanished after the sheet metal driver's door shell was replaced after the door was dented in a parking lot. The strange thing is that no components of the door's interior were changed, including any lock components. I fiddled with the linkage in the Legacy, just making sure all the screws and bolts were tight inside the door, but not really making any adjustments, and that little bit seems to have solved the problem for several years. My theory is that it's an extremely tiny movement of something within the door that makes the linkage shift just enough to trigger the actuator. It may be that as the actuator wears, the switch inside it becomes overly sensitive to slight vibrations in the linkage. Replacing the electric actuator, just fiddling with the lock components inside the door, or maybe lubricating them may solve the problem. Andrew

All three of our Legacies, '95, '95, and '96, have developed that wrinkling and puckering on the door panels, so I think it's common in this vintage. Ours has occurred mainly on the armrests in all three cars, though, so I wondered if it was related to having arms pressing on the padding beneath the gray vinyl that stretched or separated the vinyl from the padding I think that the plastic on the sun visors is supposed to be storage pockets. Some people keep their registration and other information there so they can quickly hand it to the cop when he pulls them over. hehe My grandmother's old Ford LTD had something similar, and that's where she would put her list of errands so she would remember everything. It is flimsy, but it looks worse after someone has had a garage door opener remote attached to the visor that has crumpled the plastic as appears to be your case. Since the plastic is seamed into the visor, it's probably going to look worse if you try to remove it. Andrew

My Impreza has two small dings on the front edge of the hood. Someone suggested trying one of the do-it-yourself paintless dent removal kits that are on the market to remove them. Anyone had any experience or luck using these? Thanks, Andrew

Hi all, I've got a 1996 Legacy and a 1993 Impreza which both have the older Subaru keyless entry system that was made by Code Alarm. The remote fobs are the squarish, black two-button variety. The loops on all the fobs that hold them onto the keyring have now broken off. They're just thin plastic with no metal reinforcement. Does anyone know of a stronger keyless remote fob that is compatible with this system and where I can get it? If I order new remotes from the dealer at exorbitant prices, they'll be of the same style, and I'd like to avoid this flimsy design again if possible. Thanks, Andrew